Saturday, January 14, 2017

Ermenegildo Zegna fall 2017




One is reminded of the phrase “the return of the prodigal son” … of course not in its original context but just the assemblage of words and the idea of the phrase.
click image to enlarge


So let’s switch gears a bit and go from pre-fall of women’s to full on fall in menswear. The reason for the switch is Ermenegildo Zegna and its new creative director Alessandro Sartori who has returned to his home via a detour at Berlutti. So, this is his return engagement as a full on creative director for one of the most revered and respected heritage menswear brands and if I had to use one word to describe his latest efforts, I might be forced to say BRAVO!
click image to enlarge


As most will know that Zegna is a textile family business that has morphed into one of the most all-encompassing and pervasive international vertical brands. Once thought of as the sine qua non of men’s suits, the company has forged ahead into real honest to goodness wardrobe dressing for fashionable men of any age. Once known as a businessman’s go to brand even before and after the surge of Armani, Zegna has broken ground with Satori’s return as well as the work done by his predecessor Stefano Pilatti. 
click image to enlarge


This collection is all about texture and fabrication with the pitch perfect palette of a very discerning eye. The quilting, the soft pants and even the “jogger” esthetic is all combined to render what most should see as a chic alternative to rigid buttoned up dressing. Is it for everyone? ... Not a chance! To me this is grown up fashion for men, not the trendoid “look at me” variety aimed at fashionphiles of the label conscious. Of course all this comes at a price but personally I see it as all about the look and what the designer conveys through the collection. 
click image to enlarge


See what fashion can be minus the gimmicks and sight gags that the media seems to eat up and promote as if to be taken seriously. BTW, do not overlook the underpinnings and the incredible knits!