Monday, January 16, 2017

Salvatore Ferragamo & Prada fall 2017



Guillaume Meilland’s freshman outing at Ferragamo is pitch perfect except for a few things that have nothing to do with the actual design of the clothes and more to do with the logic of how you show the clothes. When a collection is seemingly based of 50 shades of grey and I mean that literally, the clothes will tend to all blend in in one’s memory or become a blur. 
Make no mistake the outerwear is the star and Meilland dealt a  winning “full house” hand  including the most classic shapes as well those tweaked to be seen as modern such as the spencer and moto jackets and even the jean jacket reimagined in a variety of chic monotone pattern collages. 
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My issue is that simply why does classically based clothing have to be boring or even perceived as such? There comes a time when safe is too safe and making a point misses the point. Dissecting the collection will yield more than enough to make cash registers, if they still exist, sing and ring especially for men who need beautifully made stylish and timeless clothes.  These are the clothes of the fashionably grown up whom, for the most part, eschew trend and are always adding to their constantly evolving wardrobe that will never go out of style.
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click image to enlarge



On the flip side we have the so called uber revolutionary and always boundary pushing Prada which showed a collection that hums along to the tune of ugly is the new pretty and boring is the new trend. Yeah I get it; she purposely jars the eye and accentuates small details to the point of in your face. From the wookie shoes to the exaggerated bellow pocket details, your eyes are forced to see these first. 
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click image to enlarge


Yes the sweaters are the main even here and, well, the rest can be found at any number of thrift shops worldwide. On the whole if you take away the knitwear you have a lot of retread 50s and 60s clothes that were a lot better the first time around no matter the label.