Monday, January 23, 2017

Schiaparelli ....Haute Couture spring 2017



Never having any expectation can work to one’s advantage when seeing the first of the Spring '17 Haute Couture showings in Paris. As known, couture is not for “commercial use” at least for us mere mortals, so my usual parameters of judgment don’t necessarily apply. What absolutely does apply is that these clothes are a joy to behold. 
 click image to enlarge

 click image to enlarge


Bertrand Guyon delves into the archive and retrieves the DNA, humor and iconography of the late designer and deftly creates a Schiaparelli for the 21st century. The colors are exuberant, the silhouettes are easy to understand, occasionally a bit retro and the prints and palette are just wonderfully, at lack of a better word, happy, maybe even jubilant! There is a variety in its construction from the softest flou to the rigidity of a brocade blazer or smoking but no matter as the clothes reek of femininity and this is the time when it is most needed. By the way, it should be noted that by feminine I mean just that and not feminine or sexy because of tits and ass which seems to be the easy way out these days to achieve the look. Imagine that, grown up clothes by a grown up designer helming a great heritage brand … wrap your head around it!
 click image to enlarge


The ghost of Elsa lives in these clothes without a doubt and it is Guyon who breathes life back into her reputation and her imagination. Since this is all about the client, my guess is that there will be a lot of very rich ladies who will be very happy to make to the pilgrimage to Maison Schiaparelli for a healthy dose of 21st century fashion from one of the most revered brands in fashion history. 
 click image to enlarge


PS ... if there was negative to be pointed out it might be some of the footwear but happily the clothes are the source of attention here!
 click image to enlarge