Thursday, February 2, 2017

Raf Simons NYFW fall 2017 menswear



The oohing and aaahing and fawning and cooing and gooing has kept me awake all night. Maybe it was because the presentation was like a lot of mundane foreplay and no climax! Maybe it was a whole lotta hype sheathed in Greta Garbo secrecy to reveal not a lot of anything in particular. 
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Here’s what I know, besides a resounding so what and the reinforced notion that designers should stop trying to be intellects and try harder to design clothes that speak for themselves. So in a stream of consciousness we are off and running: sloped padded shoulders on boxy shapes (very 70s), silly cropped pocketed sweaters, slogans and words used as embellishment…. AGAIN….  I heart NY just like what you see on the tee shirts sold 4 for 10 bucks down the street from his office, strait jacket restraints, baggy saggy pants, oversized CPO shirts (remember them?), book keeper protective sleeves on coats or were they ice hockey forearm protectors,  the top coat, satin, vests, cinch waisted coats, jumble necklaces from a Chinatown jewelry vendor, supposed slouchy chic.
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In other words if you were waiting for the revolution in menswear, your wait continues. If you think printed duct tape, which should have been crime scene tape, is the most innovative decoration since the metal stud then you’re in luck. One more time, it is much ado about nothing much at all. Hopefully the collection for Calvin Klein will yield more excitement than this seemingly rather ordinary collection.
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This is a collection, RAF SIMONS, not Calvin Klein, that required an entire new Euro staff from top to bottom only to so called design a collection that was again supposedly all about and “made in New York City” … that’s that!
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