Saturday, July 15, 2017

NYFW men's spring 2018 ... the sadness



Sadly and apparently this past incarnation leaves one with the feeling that it has become a sort of living breathing Project Runway or reality show but with no so called oversight. In other words … much of what was shown will probably never get sold, never see the light of day again unless in some super niche online “magazine” and most importantly should never have made it to a cat walk of any kind except maybe as a student in a design school show and then most of it still pales. 
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What happen to the NAMES... you know… Joseph Abboud. Michael Bastian, Ralph Lauren, Gary Graham, Park & Ronen and so many of the other staples of what once was NYFW for men. Where was the coverage? Who exactly were these shows for? What do these so called designers hope to accomplish with these shows and really the bottom line is “WTF were you thinking?” Obscurity awaits!
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Most of what you saw was clothes for the sake of clothes, no meaning, no context; I would say no sense of reality but given that so much is it looks like it was pulled out of someone’s closet it just looks like old shit remade to look new. How sad! How pathetic! If the CFDA took credit for this assemblage of talent, then they should hide their head in shame because if this is the best that New York has to offer, I say like at the scene of a fatal car crash...  Keep moving … nothing to see here! The last scold goes to Vogue.com for actually offering so called reviews for clothes that barely merit a second glance let alone a review.
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PS ... if you are judged by the company you keep ,then it is understandable why more established brands have not joined in the fray
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Thursday, July 13, 2017

a bounty of boo-boos at NYFW men's spring 2018



One more time, at least so far, the men’s collections of NYFW for spring 2018 offer the polar opposites when it comes to designer creativity. The extremes being that so much looks like apparel you might already own or that you have seen elsewhere and the other would be clothes you wouldn’t dream of owning let alone buying.
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No one can really convince me that there is no design talent to participate and no one can tell me that some of these clothes are worth even a second look by any media whatsoever, let alone a formal review. The conundrum is simply “is this the best ya got?” If it is, then I’d say that NYFW for men is hardly worth the effort and time but hope springs eternal…. Even for me!
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There is no point in highlighting the mundane, the boring or the been there done that BUT let’s have a look at the  … “are you kidding me?”
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Tuesday, July 11, 2017

Todd Snyder Spring 2018 NYFW men's



Okay message received!! Everything old is new again especially if “you” think it’s never been done before other than by the present state of Gucci. The fact is that there is nothing here that will set the world on fire BUT there are so many pieces that are wearable, fresh and have been massaged and tweaked to look trendy… well sort of!
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Yes, I am a sucker for glen plaid and dots and stripes, especially when mixed but Snyder offers the chance for the wearer to create their own fashion statement by possibly just adding one new piece to an already existing turn out. Lots of jackets, lots of shirts cum jackets, some great shorts and then of course there is that camo raincoat which is just pretty great… or at least in my estimation.
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Rather than regurgitate a press release, let’s just say that Snyder gets it as he uses the runway to present alternatives rather than offer a dictate. This is genuine sportswear and the pieces of the puzzle are ready to assemble but the end result remains in question as there is no photo on the box… if you catch my drift. 
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For me, the dissected collection has no age and is simply a tweak of the classics that offers much more than just an of the moment ode to trend. My interest was surely peaked with the very full legged jean and pants as well the tailored pieces.
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Thursday, July 6, 2017

Azzedine Alaïa haute couture Fall 2017



After 6 years of waiting, the question arises... was it worth the wait? The answer strictly depends on what you were expecting from one of the last of the fashion wunderkinds. If you were expecting a revelation and never before seen silhouettes and visions, well you will be sadly disappointed as monsieur Alaïa is not one to bend to trends or to stray from his brand’s DNA or highly particular vocabulary. 
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Alaïa is a sort of mad scientist  as well a “tiny tyrant” who explores fabrications, constructions and techniques rather than out on a limb flights of fancy. It all about his treatments and craftsmanship; the play on shapes and volumes is more or less familiar just possibly taken to the next level of workmanship,  skillset  and quality. In other words don’t expect to be jolted out of your seat but rather to be awed by the abilities that the man possesses.
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It really should be taken into account one more time that here is an example of that blurred line between couture and ready to wear since to an untrained eye it would not be shocking if they cannot discern the difference. If there is an aspect or aspects that seem to stand out they would be the shearlings, the tulle confections, the coats, suits and that series of silver pieces that came toward the end of the show.
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The take away here is simply this was a return to the calendar that he has eschewed and bucked for years. The real question is whether or not this is a one off situation or will this be the start of a new cycle for the designer …  if I had to proffer a guess, I’d say don’t count on him joining the flock in the foreseeable future. He is and I believe will remain the rebellious and fiercely independent  tiny terror of French fashion.
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PS ... I guess Anna’s invite was lost in the mail … AGAIN!