Far from being a favorite collection this season I cannot
help but speak to the almost ethereal quality that this collection achieves!
The reason I point this out is that it is the polar opposite which that other Italian at the helm of a French heritage brand
cannot possibly understand or achieve … you figure it out!
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The exquisiteness of some of the jackets, the delicacy
of some of the dresses, the embellishments are what draws me here. Yes tailoring takes a starring
role but the absolute explosions of tulle and weightlessness make me dream of
the greats of haute couture. Rarely do
we see a collection that is body conscious yet not overtly sexy/nude and yet it
is so slick and raffiné.
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Did I like the prints ... I don’t think so at all ... did I like the
styling ... no I don’t think so.. the
kherpresh hats and veiling why bother? …
But even those overly exaggerated pieces awe me as they are what haute couture
is all about ... fantasy ... wild imaginings ... overstatement and unbridled creativity.
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So let’s go back to the collection which boasts familiar Armani-isms
in silhouette but there is a fluidity and softness that plays against the hard tailoring
and that is its magnetism; strangely he is one of the last of great designers who uses silk velvet
as a staple for his fall collections when in fact it was as common as a slit in
every European collection once upon a time. Going back over the images again,
there is plenty not to like here but then again it just all balances out with
the elegant and exquisite.
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