To start with it should be noted that this collection has
been her best to date for the house but hell... she can miss a mark like no
other. Unquestionably there are some beautiful pieces but the adjective I should
be using is exquisite or maybe even breathtaking but alas the closest you can come
to that is gasping in disbelief. What ever happened to the elegance and chic
that was inherent in haute couture?
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It is rather difficult to figure out how these clothes lack
the refined finishing of what one has become accustomed to when looking at
couture. Please observe hems and seams and muffin tops. Then of course we come
to why the hell do these clothes look so “thick” and heavy handed and yes I get it, they are
wool but shit you can make a fur look slenderizing. As for the Signoras predilection
for accordion pleats and transparency a la her time at Valentino … well it is
time to give it a rest.
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So yes, I get the
Dior grey reference and I sort of see where the designer tried to reference the
archive but hell how can you fuck it up like this… there were a few pieces that
are nothing short of horrifying and very few that were absolutely beautiful. To
make matters worse there was the so called styling or whatever that was and
please explain to me why every dress and ensemble had a croc belt cinching the
waist and one more time please explain to me why leather shoes of a wildly disparate
variety are appropriate for a chiffon gown and how you can use the Dior ateliers
to create a few total monstrosities. Lest I forget to mention the ghastly
length which I suppose was to echo the “new
look” but talk about epic fail! And I just have to mention the shearling aviatrix
jumpsuit a la Amelia Earhart complete
with cargo pockets.. WHY!
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The star here is obviously the tailoring and apparently
there is a huge blurred line between what constitutes haute couture and what is
decidedly ready to wear…. Sadly it all looks the same. What ever happened to
when haute couture was the laboratory for what was to come for the next ready
wear season or when haute couture was filled with fantasy and dreams? If this is
a very rich fashion victim’s wet dream, then who am I to question it but on a
scale of one to ten of haute couture this is a 3 maybe a 4.
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