He is everything he is purported to be but most all of he is
exactly who he is! Make no bones about it; JPG is a master when it comes to
haute couture. It occurred to me that in a way he shows it as if it was ready
to wear but if you know anything about him, this is balls out couture.
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The collection reminded me of his work at Hermès and I detected
the Indian, as in India, influence with heavy sari-like draping which brings me
to the next facets of the collection; some 35 years ago I was told by a
mentor/retailer to remember that above all Gaultier is a master tailor at heart
and you can surely see it here, he is the rarity who combines the skillset to
drape and tailor like few others.
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Gaultier embodies the soul of couture ... where else have
you seen trapunto, fur, sweaters of chain mail, ribbon or sequins or sweaters
of cashmere? The slickness and polish is overwhelming. He is the magician who
combines the traditional with the unbridled imagination of an “enfant terrible.”
He is head and shoulders above so many of his supposed peers.
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Without question this is a designer who embraces all that is
couture while never straying from his vocabulary, the collections are products
of tweaking and massaging and creatively
letting loose without bounds. How lucky
we are to still be an audience to the art and craft of haute couture created by
one of the freest spirits to ever inhabit the world of fashion.
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