Herrera and de la Renta are 2 names that have been around
for decades. They are stalwarts and foundation for NYFW. Oscar retained his stewardship
for 90% of his brand existence during his prodigious career. Carolina, once known as “our lady of the
sleeves” has and is still at the helm but both brands have been dipping their
toes into the world of fashion as it exists in the 21st century.
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Oscar De la Renta in its current incarnation led by the
Monse team has taken a more drastic approach to the brand’s newly forming identity.
For me they are most successful when they stick closer to the brand’s DNA
rather than veering off on the tangents of denim, tee shirts and excessive transparency.
With that said Spring 2018, this team to still testing the waters in day looks
but when they get to gowns and dressy clothes, the ghost of Oscar makes its
presence known with more convincing and very appealing results. Everyone strives
for that younger and possibly millennial client but few grasp that in actuality
they don’t give a crap about these labels unless it is a jean brand or an it
bag. Anyone with some fashion wisdom and some current smarts will testify that
the current generation is much more concerned with their iPhone than they are
with looking tasteful and chic.
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Carolina Herrera has had a succession of changes in her
design rooms which have yielded some rather erratic and less than adequate results.
Apparently there is this process by which they either toss out last year’s
client in search of a new one or just totally obliterate any history of the
brand whatsoever. The clothes always look to be impeccably made but the question
is who and where are women of ANY age wearing these frocks. So, with all this
said, every season is somewhat of a surprise in terms of what is presented. There
are always a few pieces that stand out and this season is no different. Gone are
the days when designers actually presented exquisitely rendered collections in
total. We have become a pick and choose world sort of like a fast food buffet.
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These 2 brands demonstrate the conundrum of fashion when it
comes to heritage brands. How to evolve? How to stay in the game? How not to
look dated? Is there a formula? My comments are merely observations laced with
opinion…. You can decide to agree or
disagree or agree to disagree!
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