Sunday, January 21, 2018

Balmain men's fall 2018



I always believed that Rousteing had talent but apparently he is now like a phonograph needle skipping on a scratched LP record… you remember those?   Anyway it is a long repetitive study based on a lot of very unownable excruciatingly expensive jackets/tops paired with pants that either have a pouch crotch or are so tight and they can double as leggings or predict endowment … with all sorts of quilting and insets, buckles, straps and zippers. 
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click image to enlarge


The really spectacular jackets are massaged DNA from past collections and have now taken on a look of  jackets that could costume Saturday Night Fever 2029 or possibly some Michael Jackson post mortem epic. So much is so tricked out, gimmicked up and over worked and yet what is most intriguing is the underpinnings and the simplest of jackets and coats. Some of the shirts appear to be amazingly gorgeous in their stark white simplicity and draping and then you get all this mirror ball stuff that just has had it... it’s tired... it’s time to move on … fur chubbies and chain mail are not exactly moving in the right direction.
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The patent leather and clear vinyl is again so been there done that and yet it just keeps coming at you as nauseum. The target audience is maybe 25 to 30, skinny legged and very rich with no job and a very active night life. The of course there is that every day utilitarian material called chain mail... So after that .02% where are you going for brand growth other than to water down the stuff for H&M and make your money on design fees.  At the moment, to me, it all looks like great editorial and a boat load of barely wearable markdowns.
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