To say that Giorgio Armani goes his own way, when it comes
to his business, would be a gross understatement of facts. To say that Mr.
Armani follows no trends and can be somewhat quirky when it comes to his collections,
would also be a bit of understatement, but what is abundantly clear is that
Giorgio Armani might be the Italian Ralph Lauren. Please think about this and
digest the words.
Mr. Armani is a master of reconfiguring and reimagining his
fashion vocabulary and DNA each and every season. That is to say he has his own
particular way of expressing his sentiments about each season without regard to
the rest of the flock; is this sounding like one of America’s own homegrown
talent? He massages his iconography to suit his seasonal needs.
Pre-Fall 2014 offers no real surprises except that the
consistency of the collection is staggering and yet he still manages to toss a
few curve balls that result in a broadening of the Armani perception of fashion
and his view on what constitutes good taste. The collection is slick, clean,
chic, modern, a bit more casual/relaxed
than usual and yet so so Armani and that’s about all that one can ask for. No
doubt about it, this is more for his ladies and maybe even a reason to gain a
larger footprint in the world of fashion retailing as well as new clientele who
want less gimmicks and more true timeless and perfectly pitched fashion.
Then there is Tomas Maier for Bottega Veneta with who I have
a sort of love hate thing going on; there are seasons that I am crazy about the
clothes and then there these where I couldn’t even begin to try and figure out
what he has done. This Pre-Fall is
collection is definitely leaning on the love side mainly because his theme or
inspirations didn’t overpower the clothes. Simply said, there are seasons where
he is too much of a “blah blah blah” designer and not enough of a merchant
oriented designer.
What is noticeable here is that Mr. Maier is a man who knows
his way around a dress as well as well as any architect knows his way around a
skyscraper. It is interesting that there are pieces that might be a bit “over
built” but it doesn’t take away from the slick lines and beautifully made
collection. Bottega Veneta is a brand steeped in the legacy of workmanship and
Mr., Maier has found a way to continually integrate that legacy into the
fashion/apparel segments of the brand. He is technician, innovator and almost
mad scientist when it comes to fabrications and applications.
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