Wednesday, October 6, 2010

PARIS ...AZZARO, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER, LOEWE, VIKTOR & ROLF






Azzaro, Vanessa Steward, was short on length but long on charm and appeal. There was a little girl quality to many of the white dresses but it was balanced out by the sexy styling when she used other colors. The only trend we saw here was ruffles and yet the lack of trend was balanced by the salable wearable collection that keeps her ladies coming back for more.
Jean Paul Gaultier was a lil bit rock n’ roll and lil bit of punk for Spring. There were cosmic prints and lots of JPG DNA spread around. What is quickly becoming a trend here is pressing the extended play or the replay button and this was no exception. This is a collection for the diehard JPG fans as it was hardly what one might call…..pivotal but it was, as usual, irreverent start to finish.
Loewe, Stuart Vevers, filled us with great hope since seeing his last collection for Fall but alas, for Spring, he seems to have strayed or perhaps lost his way. The clothes are ok … there was the requisite color and prints but there seemed to be no mood, no moment as if it was forced out to meet the deadline.
Viktor and Rolf are considered to be showmen, not to mention great technicians and good designers, but this season the theme seemed to control the collection. The theme, French cuffed dress shirts, became so over powering that the clothes seem to be secondary to sticking to the theme. Buried amongst all the theatrics were some very appealing clothes but they were so over shadowed by all the tricks and visuals employed by these two.