Saturday, January 23, 2021

Loewe fall 2021

Jonathan Anderson certainly has taken a heritage brand once known for its superb leather goods and turned it into a circus for trendies who can ill afford to wear a stitch of it let alone walk in and buy it.
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Someone far savvier than I will have to explain the plaudits and praise that the collection will receive other than its instant ability to be turned into an advertising campaign and the shock and awe it will elicit from those who only speak the language of the latest and greatest. I dare anyone to find me one very rich 40 year who might buy one piece just for kicks because to take this seriously is something that means fashion has gone off the rails and is lost!


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And one more time, since reviewers and generations that followed the boomers and Gen X have no memory or desire to realize that there aint much that’s new here ... retreads glorified because the viewer can’t see past the name and that all this repurposed fashion has existed way longer than the past decade or even 5 minutes!


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Fashion for fashion sake, clothes for clothes for clothes sake and hype for hype sake which is the modus operandi of this once revered and discreet brand that sat among the top shelf of fashion brands!


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To paraphrase another saying… bring a clown in to design a collection and you get a circus….  This is not to say the designer has no talent but it barely shows itself here!

Torkil Gudnason

Friday, January 22, 2021

Valette fall 2021

Valette is a young fashion brand established in Paris in 2020.

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Valette represents a new type of French fashion designers abandoning the safety of heritage brands to forge their own path and tell their own story.


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Valette says „a cool tailored suit for a sophisticated contemporary attitude.. Valette presents the new aw21/22 collection inspired by subcultural identities, op art vibrating colors and many pieces speak to the iconography of the, military uniform. It celebrates modernity, positivity and progress towards the future in these uncertain times….


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Style is the visible hint of something much greater


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Much of what is written above is written above is by Pierre Francois Valette who is responsible for the direction, creation and design of his eponymous brand, he speaks honestly and in earnest about what his intentions are and who he wants as his customer.


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 The key take away here is that these clothes are not aimed at the banker, the lawyer or the executive… they are aimed at young men and reflect the youthful attitude that fashion offers to the young! This is not Brioni pretending to be for a 20-year-old or Vuitton masquerading as fashion because there is some twisted story to back up clothes that are astronomically expensive and not affordable to the audience it plays to.


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 Valette is modern fashion achieved with classical means and methods to arrive at the finished product. It is an evolution of fashion that plays to its audience and not some imaginary customer who earns 7 figures and wants to look like he is 25 and think he’s hip especially when you realize that the big brands apparel is nothing more than a lot of smoke and mirrors since they don’t have to sell clothes because their stable of ancillary product more than supports them …you might consider that ready to wear is just filler for their stores and a means to garner attention for the brand! Oh, and don’t let me forget about the trendoids who NEED a label to feel secure and fashionable.


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Mark Henderson

Thursday, January 21, 2021

ERL men's fall 2021

Eli Russell Linnetz is the sort of person you would love to hate were he not so talented, hardworking, and kind. A multi-hyphenate visual artist, stage designer, photographer, and director, Linnetz began working on his own label, ERL, at the encouragement of Dover Street Market’s Adrian Joffe and Ronnie Cooke Newhouse.

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I have only a few questions….

WHY?

Why is this fashion news?


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Why is this fashion worthy?

Why does anyone need to own any of this?


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AND MOST OF ALL…. WHY IS THIS PRESS WORTHY OF ANY COVERAGE?


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 How embarrassing for Vogue to lower itself to this level in hopes of finding an audience to appeal to!!!! AND some extra ad $$$