Saturday, October 24, 2020

Alexandre Vauthier spring 2021

 It is no secret that I am a fan of this man... I almost always seem to believe that he gets it. He is not worrying about making political statements or pushing an agenda… he is a designer and therefore he designs clothes… and I might say some pretty freakin fabulous ones.

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This season I think part of what was troubling to me is that it was shot in NYC and as everyone knows the city is not what it once was but this morning I went back to look at the images and read about the collection via his words and I subtracted my issue from the equation and  here is what I  came up  with.

I love these clothes ... they are superbly rendered, this is a happy collection in that it is wearable, not overly sexed up not overly glitzed out and as he points out he sees some Halston in it. I might agree to disagree with him there as I see the Halston but I also see some Donna Karan and some Yves St Laurent and by saying that I’m in no way saying that this is a derivative collection. There’s some sort of comfort factor these references bring to the collection.


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There are fun pieces like a candy wrapper romper and serious pieces like the black reed slim gowns which are superb, some real actual wearable day clothes and then an assortment of some slightly over the top pieces but the overall mood is joyous and not mournful and not matronly and certainly not pushing the envelope over the edge.


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 Hopefully in my lifetime I will see this young man get the hype and glory that goes so undeservedly to so many.  Vauthier is a true talent, a true designer with his eyes wide open who stands head and shoulders over so many who are “ad dollar spotlighted!”


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Kudos... f√©licitations et je t’embrace and most MERCI!

Raf Simons spring 2021

 It’s his own youth that interests him. “I don’t want to show clothes, I want to show my attitude, my past, present, and future. I use memories and future visions and try to place them in today’s world.”

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 The press release for his teen dream collection lists the films that inspired him, many of which he has cited before, from Alien and Alice in Wonderland to Picnic at Hanging Rock and A Nightmare on Elm Street.


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These words from his mouth and his press release, the poor demented faux intellectual who now joins the ranks and Maria Grazia Meatball and, of course, the Einstein of fashion ... Miuccia.  Slap those slogans, badges and picture’s on clothes and send out YOUR message because that’s what young people pay thousands for … to be your walking billboards and reflections of one’s twisted youth.


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For all his theoretical talent and intellects did it occur to him that this was to be a spring collection and that some of the color combinations ( salmon and green  being one of my faves)  are nausea inducing aside from that little bit of reality which is called sales and when the fuck are you wearing these clothes in the near future or ever for that matter… but no matter as long as your name is on the label. The clothes look a bit  Robin Hood and maid Marion  circa 2099... if not a  tad funereal!


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 For all the hype that he receives I would like to know who can point out the revolutionary talents that he supposedly possesses or for that matter ONE single original idea! …. Certainly, wasn’t the casting!


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His claim to fame as far as I can tell is that he is the one designer who practically singlehandedly brought down an American brand that was a juggernaut of American fashion…  boy Raf… how I envy your hubris and delusion in thinking that you bring anything to this table we call fashion!

Sunday, October 11, 2020

getting to know DELFRANCE RIBEIRO and his brand

“Dressing is an expression of oneself, the formal representation of one's individuality. The DELFRANCE collections are inspired by a strong, sensual and extremely elegant woman. They are characterized by a careful choice of materials and meticulous attention to cuts, volumes and details. Contemporary sewing and traditional sewing are just the two of the elements that DELFRANCE uses for its creations, mixing the rebellious spirit of youth with the precision of cuts and lines.” D.R.

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If I learned anything from the Spring 2021 collections it is that women want to look pretty.  Not only is the esthetic aspect important but so is the ease of getting dressed; add your shoes, your scarf, your necklaces and bracelets and you’re ready to go almost anywhere... or no accessories at all!

In addition, that the clothes have to make you feel good ... of course there are some dressy dresses but not for gala evenings out but rather for possibly a more formal party for a select group of friends or just between you and your lover to mix things up. This was not  the season to  go all out and  do  clothes that have no  occasion and no reason to be worn, this was  a time for clothes that are not only wearable  but  carry  a mood and  not the frustration of  OMG I love it but where am I ever going to wear this or will I ever be able to wear this.


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Delfrance delivers a timely collection aimed at women of no particular age but to women who want new clothes and want to wear them NOW!

- Let’s speak of your product and your brand: who is your target customer and what is your philosophy for the brand?

My target customer is a spontaneous, independent and urban chic woman. She has no age and she is confident about herself and her own femininity.

Despite her impeccable elegance, she possesses a strong personality and sensuality that allows her to distinguish herself thanks to the choice of cuts and original volumes, drape, unusual combinations, precious fabrics.

My collections are inclusive, they don’t look at trends, but they’re perfect for every woman, at all times and at every moment.


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 Why do you think that the brand has such appeal to women?   

In my garments the sartorial refinement, the clean and essential lines, blends with innovative and contemporary elements to give life to creations that are at the same time original and extremely refined yet versatile; they are perfect from morning to night.


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 How do you decide on your silhouettes, palette and fabrications? Is there a theme each season? 

There is not a precise theme each season, I just take inspiration every time by the world around me: landscapes, scents, images, and so on. 

It happens for example that I spend a summer in Occitania, which then becomes the perfect source of a new collection: fresh, simple and genuine, where also the colour palette speaks to the lush summer nature. What is important for me is the attention to details, to volumes, which should be both soft, and structured, the choice of fabrics is always accurate…. It is my recipe for a collection.


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 If you could choose any collaboration, who or what would it be and why?

I like Marc Jacobs and I think we would have a great collaboration because of our mixtures of status, mindset and culture.


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 If you could invite any 5 people to dinner, who would they be and why?

 Bernard Arnault, Madonna, Donatella Versace, Anna Wintour, Vivienne Westwood. I like the way these people communicate and I like to know what they’re thinking about fashion and how fashion must change?

Wednesday, October 7, 2020

LOYDFORD SPRING 2021.... asked & answered

 I have long said that LOYDFORD is an evolutionary brand. The designers have turned trend into trademark DNA and create their own looks that reflect their brand and resonate with their clients. They continually win new customers at both the retail and wholesale level by actually designing and creating rather than referencing and copying. There are not many privately owned and financed niche businesses that remain so they are to be congratulated for weathering the storms of present-day life as well as the ungrateful and lazy media who go after advertising dollars rather than spotlighting true talent.

 

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I felt this was an important time to speak with them again as so many others cannot continue and yet they persevere and have grown despite all odds.


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 After viewing dozens of  collections for spring 2021 , I can honestly  say  the best  reactions come from those who have a realistic outlook which is that clothes need to be easy to wear, be  mix and match  with  what you might already own, can  be worn at almost any time of day and lastly but maybe  most importantly is that the clothes need to make you feel good when you wear them.



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 In this pandemic world what do you think are the biggest challenges for a privately owned and operated fashion business such as yours? Production? Fabrics? Retail apprehension? Financial?

 Production: the biggest challenge was in the beginning adjusting to the lockdown when everything closed and suddenly the daily routine got totally blocked and production places moved in very slow motion, half occupied factories, 3-day work weeks and everywhere with everyone being social distanced. 


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 Fabrics: we stopped ordering custom made fabrics from our mills with whom we have built long term relationships so we made our move onto Korean textiles where we got one amazing new fabric made while all other fabrics were just ok. We have a local partner for printing our silks so in that aspect we are ok. The costs were just very challenging given the circumstances.


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Retail apprehension: it was a great challenge to dive deep into customer service and turn our fashion house into an almost charitable organization .... joking of course but we turned everything into consignment and gave great discounts and everything worked out well for all concerned except for just a few retailers who proved to be very unprofessional and then we just had to rid ourselves of them.


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Financial: we are moving carefully and working double time for half… Sounds like nothing has changed…  underpaid, over worked and over stressed before and after the crisis began. Our management style has proven successful for us since we have remained in business since 1999 


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 What message do you hope to send with your collection to your buyers at both the wholesale and retail levels?

 Look at the quality of the item and its uniqueness…. Understand and realize where your wardrobe comes from ... Be aware of what you wear and how you wear it. 


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 What reasons have your retailers told you as to why your clothes seem to be so appealing to their clientele?

Timeless, effortless, unique, an attractive price point ... and simple in the fact that it is clothes you wear every day any way  you want. 


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 As time moves on how do you foresee the growth of the collection in terms of new looks and silhouettes?

More dresses… we want to go back to party dresses as soon as parties can be had, we have been playing nice BUT we need some excitement and some fresh action!


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