Wednesday, September 30, 2015

Dries van Noten Spring 2016 PFW



Here’s what I know about Dries van Noten: he is a textile guy, he loves and adores fabric and color, he has a cult following, he is his own trend and he has no illusions about being a mega brand. What I see in this collection is the exquisite workmanship, the lightest of touch, the lushness of pattern and color mixes and his fiercely independent spirit that remains his alone.
click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge



I cannot pretend to be a fan, but my eyes see beauty in these clothes. There is the art and craft of fashion that delivers a collection which speaks to the Dries client. No question, she has an artsy propensity but she loves fashion and she loves to be comfortable. My visual assessment also tells me that Dries knows his client and customer and yes some will want the look and some will crave a piece or 2 to add to their ever expanding collection.

 
click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

My point is what will most see when they view the collection other than what they read or are told by a press release? I am not interested in inspirations and all that blah blah blah; I want to see beautifully made and rendered clothes which may or may not be to my taste but that I can truly understand their appeal as fashion. Yes in other words...  a designer who designs, a designer not chasing trends and editorials and maybe most of all a designer who doesn’t waiver from who he is and what he does.
click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge



Okay, so yes there are pieces I think are just perfection but my vision and abilities only allow me to see this collection as pieces. Again, I am quite taken with the appearance that most of these clothes are weightless no matter the fabrications or embellishments. If I could say one negative here it would be I detest the shoes but that’s all I will share.

Maison Margiela Spring 2015 PFW



Blah … blah… blah, blah, blah ... insert oohing... aaahing ... fawning ... lauding…. Orgasmic rants … well that is if you are of the blindly faithful and/or the terminally trendoid … or maybe of the baaaaaaaaah club (the sheep)
click on image to enlarge


What I saw was a flicker of Galliano in the razor sharp tailoring, the antics of the hair /make-up and of course the gender bending. Aside from the design theatrics of fraying and wrapped plastic and torn and flaps, there was this very heavy handed folded seamed bust line that surely looked less than fabulous or worthy of Galliano’s hand. The styling was almost to the point of just plain ridiculous and let’s talk about what looked like bonded fabric! You remember bonded ... it was fabric heat set, backed to a foam like material to provide roundness without all the seaming architecture.
click on image to enlarge

click on image to enlarge



Having never been a fan or Margiela enthusiast, maybe its appeal is lost on me. BUT, my eyes tell me that the Galliano input was most evident in the tailoring and in a few styles that reminded us of how Galliano sees/saw fashion. i.e. the Japanese/Ferre type tie closures on jackets and dresses. So … This is all about pieces and not so much about a total look by any stretch of the imagination. The proportion of so much is visually disturbing to me.
click on image to enlarge

click on image to enlarge



What struck me odd was the embellishments which one can suppose were to be humorous but they just seem to be in stark contrast to this designer’s M.O. ALAS, there was this amazing studded and frayed sleeveless tennis sweater which was pretty amazing and while on the subject of pieces there was there was that skirt and coat with the “diamante” earrings hanging of them. If one is looking for conversation pieces, then you have come to the right place.
click on image to enlarge

Monday, September 28, 2015

The Silver Foxes of Fashion: Tony Spinelli



Today’s installment of the series centers on a legendary and marquee fashion icon that has evolved into a silver fox. This might be your first meeting but, for those who are short on fashion history, his name is Tony Spinelli and it is his image that is emblematic of men’s fashion via the highest echelons of international design. These images and his person have graced every form of media while being the subject of some of the greatest photographers of the twentieth century and so his resume reads like a who’s who of the world of fashion.
click image to enlarge.. art by Marc-Antoine Coulon

click image to enlarge



He is one of the extremely rare and blessed men who achieved an international presence; his colleagues and collaborators have included Horst, Scavullo, Avedon, Newton, Bassman, Penn, van Wangenheim, Polly Mellen, Harry King, Way Bandy, Mario Valentino, Halston and Gianni Versace.  He has taken starring roles on the runways of the world and on the printed page of every leading publication for men and women including GQ, when it was the premier men’s fashion publication, UOMO Vogue, Vogue, and Esquire.

 
click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

If the term super model, a term that is personally loathsome, was in the fashion dictionary of the ‘70s and ‘80s, then his photo would appear to its right.   Here he is today in his own words:

 
click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

Jeffrey Felner: What is the most treasured possession in your wardrobe?

Tony Spinelli: My Armani tux, white tie of course, is amongst my favorites but I love to dress for any occasion. Elegance is always key and I expect that you do the same.


JF: What is your most sterling trait?

TS: If I do say so myself it is my personality; the character trait has definitely opened doors for me as well as sealed the deal more than once. Too many young people think it is only about looks but there is so much more than just a book that only shows you off in front of camera but looks don’t reveal how you interact with others.


JF: What is your guilty secret?

TS: I am absolutely never ever satisfied as I always believe there is room for improvement. There is always something more that one can give to a project, job or assignment. I believe that this part of me is why I achieved and earned my reputation and standing within the international fashion community.

 
click image to enlarge
JF: What’s your advice to the newbie?

TS: The best advice and you best learn it quickly is how to deal with rejection. Again, you have to use your personality as a tool and it helps to win a client.  You must never give up, you must take chances and be different from the rest, in other words don’t be one of the crowd. It is just as easy to stand out as it is to blend in.

click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

JF: Who is your favorite designer or ideal subject?

TS: Gianni Versace, Giorgio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana & Hugo Boss are only some of the designers that I favor. Having worked for some of these guys has helped me develop my own personal style which usually involves the pleasure I get from wearing a greatly tailored jacket.


JF: In 3 words or less, describe the current state of fashion.

TS: It is not my style at all, there seems to be too much sameness and not enough of those models who stand out as individuals. This trend of the very young boys who look like they need to eat a meal or the boys with too much facial hair doesn’t sit well with me and certainly not part of how I grew up in the business.

 
click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

JF: If you could, would you ever approach one of your peers to employ; who would it be and why?

TS: There are so many to choose from, Halston being at the top of my list because he is one designer who demanded excellence and got it. He was a wonderful designer for the social set and a great teacher for me. Please remember that I did all the Z14 ads for the men’s cologne so I do know first-hand about his ethic

click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

JF: If you could invite up to 4 people for dinner, who would they be…dead or alive?

TS: Dick Avedon, Polly Mellen, Yves Saint Laurent and   Coco Chanel top off my list as they were all ahead of the game. These people didn’t wait to be told what the trend was, they invented trends, they dared to be different and they all had the skill set and passion to accomplish greatness.


JF: Whose opinion do you value most?

TS: It is so interesting to me that I love to hear the opinions of the older and wiser crowd such as my interviewer here. They’ve been there and done that and are still here to tell the tales of how it was and not how we might perceive it to have happened.

 
click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

JF: What store or which designer do you most like to shop in or wear?

TS: I am most at home at Barney’s New York since they have everything that anyone could possibly need, they cover a lot of looks as well as the best designers from around the world. It is interesting for me to even just look around and see what all these designers are offering.


 JF: Do you have a dream collaborator?

TS:Giorgio Armani would be the ultimate choice because I think he understands men and only pushes fashion so far without getting too crazy. When I wear his clothes I am totally comfortable, totally relaxed and if it was possible I would love to stand in front of a camera for any of his products.

 
click image to enlarge
JF: Who is your perfect dinner companion?

TS: When Casa Spinelli is filled with friends and family which happens to be almost every Sunday. Being Italian, family is part of what makes us who we are and what we have made of ourselves. I love this family thing because it takes me back and makes me look ahead.