Whether or not he models’ heads serve a purpose or are part
of the designer’s inspiration , they creep me out so it’s best to point that
out now and never mention it again and extract that from any part of the
review. (Sort of a cross between Divine, a drag queen and a clown)
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So … Let’s talk clothes! Why did it occur to me that if Ralph Lauren was incarnated as an of the moment London designer he might be
have been Gareth Pugh … so maybe that’s a stretch! Maybe it’s the red and
white, maybe the tailored pierces and maybe it’s the simplicity of so much of
this collection. It is most definitely not the second skin latex, the fish
scale paillettes ((which are really coins to look like paillettes) or the transparencies
that scream RL.
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My fascination with Pugh is that he is a designer who
designs and continually flexes his muscle and prowess season after season. His
body of work is extraordinary as he has shown us that indeed he is a designer
who has the talent and the chops but has no desire to be another me too in the
sea of sameness that pervades the world of fashion.
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There are a few pieces like the huge bow ( Dior/YSL?) one
shoulder and the red paillette sprinkled trench coat that make me believe that
this young man still has an arsenal of ideas and fashion artillery that has yet
to be used to its fullest extent or even tapped into. Of late, unfortunately, we get to see young
designers who want to fit in rather than stand out; the ones who want to stand
out do so in the most outrageous and absurd ways rather than via deft of hand
and.. Well... common sense like these
clothes have to sell to someone so I can stay in business.
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The trick here is overlook the theatrics and focus on what’s
really the reason for the show and that CLOTHES!
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