Burberry fall 2022

Aside from a trench coat and the plaid, please tell me what the most visible traits are for this heritage brand. Apparently Tisci just discovered this as well the symbol for Prorsum... a part of the Burberry history that hasn’t been spoken of or seen since the days of Rosemarie Bravo who aptly named the ready to wear segment of the brand by that moniker when it was designed by Roberto Menechetti. How many of today’s so called fashionphiles have ever heard of Prorsum let alone recognize the symbol for it?

So, with all that said, this is one of Tisci’s best outings to date only because he has finally surrendered to the plaid and the raincoat as key elements and yet the rest is still nothing but filler.

Plaid is a notoriously poor seller at retail for women and I’m not sure that any women, of any age, want to accentuate their hips, own a fully quilted ballgown, look like a fullback or wear thigh high latex boots. I did however love the gathered/pleated/ shirred trench dress cum coat and some other pieces which have nothing at all to do with the brand. I might add here that there is no excuse to see the sewing of a hemline on a ball gown from any designer.

Bottom line is, my guess, is the signature plaid pieces will sell and a minority of the other pieces which just will serve the need for lady clothes for women who can afford them. It’s just sort of a yawn and once again there is no place for politics in fashion!

PS ... explain to me who wants to look like Big Bird in a ball gown or wear a patchwork leather Jacket that looks like it fell off the back page of some cheap ass fashion magazine?

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VTMNTS spring 2022

 THE SECRET  THAT SHOULD HAVE NEVER BEEN MADE PUBLIC.......

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Redundant, not a new  concept in sight other than showing the same outfit in 5  color ways, yawn worthy, trendoids beware, fashion media get those  diapers, 40s/50s menswear influence, turtleneck shells ( ask your mother) with matching opera length gloves, varsity jackets, car coats, draping sweat pants, more puffers, raw sienna is not the most asked for  color in the pantone  book, all modeled on punk like neo Nazi  type  models, and after 100 looks  you  really have to wonder who was waiting for this. 

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This GEORGIAN thinks he will tip the scales of fashion with this crap. The best   top was the first and then it just went downhill from there. Demna must have this ego that’s bigger than Jeff Bezos’ bank account to even think this is anything   but more thrift store stuff cleaned up and copied ... and yes, we all need more tee shirts with words on them and more adidas sweat suits....

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So, my question is “where’s the beef?”

ON BEING A SEPTUAGENARIAN ...plus one

Well, it’s one year later but this year has been like no other that I lived thru... the year that will make history, the year of a world-wide pandemic that has taken its toll on each and every one of us in some way shape or form... consciously or unconsciously.

We have lived in isolation and under the most difficult circumstances and experienced moments we thought impossible we’d ever know. There were times we lost hope, we lost loved ones and possibly we even lost the idea that any happiness will ever come our way again.

Personally, my health has diminished but that’s to be expected from a 71-year-old machine that at times might have been overused. I’ve tried to be a cheerleader for my dearest friends, no matter virtual or in real life, as they are what kept me going and I felt that it was my duty as a friend to try to push them into a better frame of mind and hopefully even make them laugh... even at my own expense if necessary. I remain basically a non-complaining oldie since I learned that bitching and moaning to the world won’t make things better. I reminded myself every day that things could always be worse

I experienced a great deal of nostalgia by telling those who once made my heart more than flutter and that I harbored secret crushes on them ...  in some ways it was cleansing, surprising and at other times there was great sadness involved. I am ever so grateful for so many who have crossed my path and continue to do so on an almost daily basis. I even learned to let go of friendships that I thought were forever but in fact they weren’t...they were fun and genuine while they lasted and then they weren’t... no second thoughts no pissing and moaning.  ...over and done.

I’ve found that there are still the most gracious people that surround me who I barely knew a year ago but became cherished friends due to their immense concern for me during this year. Wonderfully, most of them are considerably younger than I and I tell them the same thing ... you are the warriors; you will tell the stories that need to be told but most of all make sure when this dark period passes that you have one helluva good time and don’t hold back. The years pass quickly and no one should be held back from enjoying their lives in every way possible.

So, on that note, maybe there will be parts 2-3-4-5 and so on and then again maybe not but I want to feel the life come back to NYC and to feel the freedom I once felt.

Part ...2020.... FASHIONBY THE RULES: ON BEING A SEPTUAGENARIAN ..3/19/50 (jeffybruce.blogspot.com)

Claude Virgin

Claude Virgin #wakinguptofashion #photographer #image #fashion #style #moreisbetter  #diamonds #gemstones #bracelets #rings #brooches #decisionsdecisions #manicure #stilllife #choices #joallier #affecté #makeastatement #sugardaddy #1000words #showofhands #diamondsareforever #ash #chargeandsend #sparklers #newyear #newjewels #outwiththeold #holdstill #click

MOOD/MODE ..the photgraphy of Anton Corbijn

 Fashion is not always spelled out in capital letters.”

What is incredibly fascinating about MOOD/MODE is that its author, or in this case the photographer responsible for this incredible visual chronicle is a name that may very well be unknown to the most readers and certainly not on the tip of anyone’s tongue. Yet Anton Corbijn has photographed every kind of royalty you can imagine from actual royalty to film, fashion, sports celebrities, but most of all to music royalty. He is of the school that the clothes define the wearer and thusly tells a story.

 *****full review here FOLLOW THE PROMPTS TO NYJB 

www.nyjournalofbooks.com/book-review/moodmode ...

 

Alexandre Vauthier couture spring 2020

Always a fan of Vauthier as I see this designer who has multiple technical skills that serve only a few masters! He shows us season after season that women can be sexy no matter if they are wearing second skin cut out frocks or all covered up in a tailleur.

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His diversified skillset and vision speak to some of the great designers of the 20^th century; some of the pieces have a vague retro buzz to them and yet they look fresh and modern. Even though I am a great admirer of Phillip Treacy, I’m just not quite sure what Vauthier was thinking when he added Treacy to the mix but no matter as the clothes have enough presence to quickly overcome the distraction.

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It’s not a collection that will go down in fashion history but it is a collection that speaks to his clientele and that in itself is something as rare as hen’s teeth…. As the Texans would say! I tip my hat to him each season as he presents clothes that exude femininity as well as objectify women in the most flattering way. There is no trend chasing, not insanity that shatters so many of his colleagues ... there is consistency.

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It is my feeling that he is one of the rare designers who speaks to a different generation of couture clients other than the ones we generally expect to find at couture showings.

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The only restriction that he insists on is that his women are in great shape and have great presence and confidence in their wardrobe choices.

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Vauthier is possibly a lone man out there in fashion who stays his course and evolves season after season. Kudos to you Alexandre!

Balmain fall 2020 men’s

As I have written time after time about Olivier Rousteing, the boy has talent! I have always been a fan of his underpinnings that he has consistently shown under his tailored pieces in previous collections BUT one more time an editor’s pencil was sorely needed especially with this collection!

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Not only was it repetitive to beat the band but then he opted to choose an Hermès like print to populate the collection…. Not a good idea at all for someone who says he was thinking of Africa, his ancestry and his roots when he designed the collection… waxed batiks??/ ikats??  C’mon girl get your shit together and do your homework. Your ancestors weren’t mummies!! 

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While the palette worked the collection was overkill on so many levels ... all that wrapping, swathing and draping and cowling and yes, I personally love it but how long does it take to get into these get-ups and where are you going in them. The tailored pieces were as usual razor sharp but there were these odd pieces like the calvary placket outerwear jacket and a seemingly ode to Schiaparelli’s sunburst cape. What’s odd is that all the wrapping seemed to recall the very beginnings of Haider Ackerman which all fell by the wayside and maybe today we can see why.

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With 35 or 40 exits he could he have created a far more cohesive and impactful collection that really made a statement rather than his audience being beaten over the head with these looks alike looks. If you want to base a collection on your roots you don’t have to imagine what your ancestors or genetic relations wear...  that’s what google is for or better yet get on a freakin plane and go look!

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 One last thing... your over 3 million Instagram followers…. Well my guess is 2,995,000 of them are H&M customers and that’s a generous guess on my part!!