Monday, February 27, 2017

50 Frames of MEH MFW fall 2017



The fashion violations have been recorded ….  The fashion police have been working overtime …. Whatever happened to fashion?  The citations have been issued…



COME SI DICE or How do you say .... 
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Oops
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WTF
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Can this be fashion? 
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What were you thinking?
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Better luck next time!
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Boners!
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Who told you that  you  were a designer?
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Cant you see whats wrong here ?


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What a mess!
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Giorgio Armani MFW fall 2017



Even by Armani standards this was a restrained collection in terms of design. The story was JACKETS of every conceivable shape, shoulder and silhouette, albeit mostly of the shorter variety. The overall tenor of the collection was much more relaxed than usual and not as uptight buttoned up. 
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The color palette was pitch perfect from the all black suits to the piercing reds to the intense jewel tone velvets. Bottoms were mostly pants or what might be best described as full length culottes, the Armani “sarong” pant, or a slim cigarette pant. For the first time in a long time there were not many evening pieces and those which were shown were far less decorous and statement making that the usual fare.
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Like it or not, Armani stays the course, his own distinct one, and survives in a business where so many fail or fall on hard times. Once again, there is something to be said for consistency, sticking to your guns and adhering to your brand’s DNA. Rather than blather on ... the facts are in the photos as well as in the strength of his privately held independently owned empire. 
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Enjoy the sartorial feast that Armani serves up for Fall 2017… and yes, yes, yes, I am sure there will be those who yawn but those are the ones who shouldn’t be looking!
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BTW how can you not love the dégradé leopard print handbags or the pleated gauntlets?
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Sunday, February 26, 2017

Salvatore Ferragamo MFW fall 2017



Since the departure of Massimiliano Giornetti, I have cast a wary eye towards the brand that the designer cultivated and reimagined during his tenure brand. Last season I was taken with Fulvio Rigoni’s collection but this season yields and elicits an even stronger reaction.
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Let me preface to say, I am not sure this collection is geared to the existing Ferragamo customer BUT this is a collection that is designed! It is laser sharp and created with a deft skilled hand and a discerning eye. I was first taken with the “color blocking” which was achieved in a series of patterns rather than with color and done in the most subtle of ways. 
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Then of course there is the overall mean clean sharp silhouette … almost minimal, not clinical, but in some ways very chic, but nevertheless hard-edged. It’s a very lean presentation in terms of looks but it is laser focused on daywear which in my opinion in the way to go these days.
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So, one must assume that a new direction has been set for the brand which will take some time to gestate and gain a toehold at retail but hell, it is a pleasure to witness a collection that has actually been designed, thought out and not another “me too” moment. If I was forced to draw a comparison, I might liken it the mindset of Akris.


Again, part of my attraction is the subtlety that the designer has used to send the message which IMHO is very much of the DNA of the brand. The brand is not a screaming “look at me” brand but one of those heritage brands that has emerged as fashion that does not lean on trend. As usual the collection is heavy on outerwear but surprisingly lean on accessories which is a bit strange but in one respect, that does allow you to solely focus on the clothes.
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And in a rare moment of restrained praise I say ... I look forward to what comes next in the evolution of the brand

Saturday, February 25, 2017

Missoni MFW fall 2017



There is something about a heritage brand that keeps you coming back for more even after they have  strayed too far from their original roots or DNA and ventured into the world of trenoidal fashion. The case in point is Missoni who built their reputation on knits… sweaters and sweater dressing to be precise (with a distinct color palette) and if there was ever a time to tap into that DNA, this is the season to do it. 
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Having been around fashion for longer than most have been on this earth, I am reminded regularly that if you stick to what you do best then eventually you rise to the top of your game. Fashion observers, critics and designers seem to believe that rocking the world or trying to shock and awe are the only ways to truly be fashionable or for that matter fashion worthy or that most hated of words… relevant!
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When perusing the images please take note that Missoni is best when it focuses on what they do best and falters most when it strays to that alien territory of trying to be too of the moment or too much of a design house. I am usually nonplussed by their collections since they try far too hard to be what they are not but this season they are able to be powerful and potent with their offerings. One might go so far as to say they may just “suffer” a revival if not gain a whole new audience. It is not so much stepping out of your comfort zone but how you do it and this season they are an Olympic 10!
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My question has always been the same and that is why ... after you spend decades building a brand identity do you suddenly decide to toss it in the trash and in the process surrender your market share?
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The photos tell the story and if you are cognizant of what made Tai and Rosita Italian fashion royalty... Well then it is time to find out why Google was invented!