Azzedine Alaïa haute couture Fall 2017

After 6 years of waiting, the question arises... was it worth the wait? The answer strictly depends on what you were expecting from one of the last of the fashion wunderkinds. If you were expecting a revelation and never before seen silhouettes and visions, well you will be sadly disappointed as monsieur Alaïa is not one to bend to trends or to stray from his brand’s DNA or highly particular vocabulary. 

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Alaïa is a sort of mad scientist  as well a “tiny tyrant” who explores fabrications, constructions and techniques rather than out on a limb flights of fancy. It all about his treatments and craftsmanship; the play on shapes and volumes is more or less familiar just possibly taken to the next level of workmanship,  skillset  and quality. In other words don’t expect to be jolted out of your seat but rather to be awed by the abilities that the man possesses.

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It really should be taken into account one more time that here is an example of that blurred line between couture and ready to wear since to an untrained eye it would not be shocking if they cannot discern the difference. If there is an aspect or aspects that seem to stand out they would be the shearlings, the tulle confections, the coats, suits and that series of silver pieces that came toward the end of the show.

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The take away here is simply this was a return to the calendar that he has eschewed and bucked for years. The real question is whether or not this is a one off situation or will this be the start of a new cycle for the designer …  if I had to proffer a guess, I’d say don’t count on him joining the flock in the foreseeable future. He is and I believe will remain the rebellious and fiercely independent  tiny terror of French fashion.

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PS ... I guess Anna’s invite was lost in the mail … AGAIN!

Valentino haute couture fall 2017

Cue the fawners! 

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Start the chorus of oohs and aahs!

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Alert the label whores and the fashion victims with HUGE wallets!

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Welcome to the nunnery of Valentino! Monastery looks, convent wear and all things ecclesiastical!

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Sadly there is not much elegance present but what you do get is impeccable workmanship, the most riche of fabrications and minimalism that is a hair’s breath away from boring. Confections of lace that have been embroidered until hell won’t have it and a lot of clothes that hide a multiple of sins for bodies that are less than perfect.

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Yes there is what appears to be a plethora of day clothes but the question is where do you wear these day clothes that are so contrived and rather less than as easy to wear as they appear. You might also ask yourself if the “tariff”  of 4 to 6 figures and more is what you want t to spend on less than memorable clothes. Don’t get me wrong, couture clothes do not have to scream look at me when you consider that ladies of a certain station had their gardening clothes created by the likes of Balenciaga but those women do not exist today.  Haute couture is a way of life, a lifestyle and most of all, the wearer is one who demands the absolute best that money can buy or just wants to prove that they can afford it. My conundrum is who exactly wears these clothes at these prices and why.

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In the end it all seems rather ho hum if not yawn inducing ... Where is the elegance, the slick, the chic.. where  has it all gone?

Jean Paul Gaultier haute couture fall 2017

He is everything he is purported to be but most all of he is exactly who he is! Make no bones about it; JPG is a master when it comes to haute couture. It occurred to me that in a way he shows it as if it was ready to wear but if you know anything about him, this is balls out couture.

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The collection reminded me of his work at Hermès and I detected the Indian, as in India, influence with heavy sari-like draping which brings me to the next facets of the collection; some 35 years ago I was told by a mentor/retailer to remember that above all Gaultier is a master tailor at heart and you can surely see it here, he is the rarity who combines the skillset to drape and tailor like few others. 

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Gaultier embodies the soul of couture ... where else have you seen trapunto, fur, sweaters of chain mail, ribbon or sequins or sweaters of cashmere? The slickness and polish is overwhelming. He is the magician who combines the traditional with the unbridled imagination of an “enfant terrible.” He is head and shoulders above so many of his supposed peers.

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Without question this is a designer who embraces all that is couture while never straying from his vocabulary, the collections are products of tweaking and massaging  and creatively letting loose without bounds.  How lucky we are to still be an audience to the art and craft of haute couture created by one of the freest spirits to ever inhabit the world of fashion.

Alexandre Vauthier haute couture fall 2017

Each season I am reminded that Alexandre Vauthier is a sort of fashion rockstar. The clothes are not for the shy and retiring and yet the clothes can have multiple effects on the viewer. For me this season there was a sort of paean to Yves St Laurent; don’t ask me to explain but I saw it. Whether it was languid lamé or the deep vee long sleeved shapes or the party dresses, the polka dots , the sheer tops or the smokings. Whether you agree is not really as important as that the designer gives them all a new life under his hand and he has made them part of his vocabulary.

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What I found intriguing this season is that the clothes are not totally all about sexy and hot. Yes the tailor in him proffers the suitlike dresses/smokings which he is more than capable of given  his roots but there is this amazing slickness and polish and a possible undercurrent of decadence  but I guess easiest to say. .. Alexandre Vauthier has a point of view and he retains all the “genetics” of his brand’s DNA.  Try  this on for size ?? … Vauthier evokes an almost tableau vivant or short subject “film”  of Helmut Newton lensing YSL!!! Think about it!

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Collection wise, the appeal is broader than usual, hot as usual, sometimes oversexed, sometimes a bit B&D and always with that under current rocker vibe. Okay so we can say he is a real rockstar of fashion and unlike so many of his peers, he is true to himself and to his clientele season after season while massaging and tweaking what he does best.

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Take note of his use of lashing, the leathers worked as is if satin and a personal favorite was the lace side ruffle wrap with sheer top which gave the illusion of being totally weightless, naked and covered up!

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