Sunday, February 28, 2010
FALL 2010 MILAN ---MOSCHINO, BOTTEGA, PUCCI
The latest collection took me back to when Franco Moschino was still designing the collection. This has all the traces of the late designer including the sense of humor that he was so famous for during his tenure. The clothes are distinctly Moschino with trademark touches as well as shapes. This turns out to be one of the few winners in Milan.
While I am not usually a big fan of these clothes, I found this collection to be far more appealing on many levels..........well one in particular.........it might just sell at retail. There was the tailored and fitted part and the looser and drapier part which for a change looked season appropriate.
Well from a society matrons dream to a hot mama's must have, Pucci has taken the trip to the other side. The prints were brooding, the shapes tight and dangerously short but it all made sense in the newest incarnation of this classic name.
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MILAN FALL 2010-- BLUMARINE
If I had to pick a show that brought back the memories of what fun it used to be to go to shows and to anxiously wait for your writing appointment than I would have to choose this collection above all. Blumarine may not be every one's taste but these frocks sure do make you smile. In a season where everyone has gone their own way into the future, Blumarine stays its course as on the resources that you can depend on for consistency in vibe and presentation ...................and when so many others seem to be in search of a future Blumarine just forges ahead...........head and shoulders above so many in Milan.
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Saturday, February 27, 2010
MILAN FALL 2010..FERRE, D SQUARED, VERSACE
There is something about the clothes that these 2 present for Ferre that just dont come across properly. I am sure that they start out with the best intentions but somewhere along the line the runway presentation suffers. Mr. Ferre's clothes were so precise--so razor sharp--so chic and the newest incarnation looks like they have been worn or need to properly fitted or need a pressing..............whatever the issue if they just don't hit the same note that the original did so either the new team has to completely steer clear of the old Ferre or get it together and do it right.
These 2 jokers are very confused about the business of selling clothes. Each season they seem to seek out another audience and each season they neglect to realize that their clothes are wildly expensive and have very little cache for the retail customer who can afford them. The Catens seem to think they are doing a reality TV show except there is nothing exceptional about them or the clothes. I suppose whomever is funding this fiasco will eventually cash out before the losses become too great.
While I was holding out for a knock out Fall, I was sorely disappointed by what I saw as a lot of over worked and over designed pieces. There were moments when Donatella's talents shone through but there were way too many gimmicks and "cuts" and "slices" as to totally distract from the garment itself.
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Friday, February 26, 2010
SJP...............THE SAGA CONTINUES
Don't you think it would have been good form to wear a dress from the company where you are President and Creative Director
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Milan fall 2010-PRADA, D&G, FENDI
Upon reading Cathy Horyn's review last night, I was amazed to hear her say "it is almost as if Miuccia dares you to hate the clothes"................well you don't have to dare me. I thought the clothes were awful, ugly, cumbersome and brooding.
Usually I say that it is a good thing they are in the handbag and shoe businesses, but I am not so sure this time around. I will say that amongst so much unrealistic fashion there were a few pieces that did catch my eye which were the 2 black and jet beaded dress and coat.
These guys are really a good time. For the fall, they appear to have become a sort of Ralph Lauren on mind alterign substances. They took that snowflake, reindeer, Nordic sweater and beat it till it was dead and there were no more ways to interpret it. The odd thing is that no matter how over the top the presentation was ..........there were plenty of good salable pieces.
what I am not quite sure about is that in a season where there seems to be a profusion of fur, why wasn't Karl more focused on that rather than the voluminous shapes he used for the ready to wear. At best, I find Fendi to be a bit of a push so this season is no different. There was, however, one high point which was the interpretation of the muckluck into a stylish laced boot.
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Thursday, February 25, 2010
LONDON FALL 2010
It is not very often that I am without an opinion or comment but I seem to be at a great loss to discuss the current showings in London. Each time that I began to watch a collection I was hoping for some of the rare talents that London has to offer. This time around I was dismayed to see so may collections that smarted of Alexander McQueen or maybe it was the almost unanimous use of digital prints that McQueen popularized during his past 2 collections. Then there were the case of what I can only say are not very pretty clothes...............even collections like ERDEM which I usually adore I found to be boring for one reason or another. So I will just post 5 selected shots from 5 collections and I leave it to you to decipher where they come from.
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Tuesday, February 23, 2010
THANKS TO WAYNESCOT FOR THE SUGGESTION LUKAS....................................... http://qlixmag.com/2010/02/23/new-york-fashion-week-the-blonds-aw-2010/S
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Monday, February 22, 2010
THE BEAUTIFUL FALL
MY FIRST FASHION BOOK REVIEW
IT'S THE CHRONICLE OF THE PARALLEL AND DIVERGENT PATHS OF ST LAURENT AND KARL LAGERFELED 1954 THRU 2004
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Sunday, February 21, 2010
RALPH, MARCHESA, BADGLEY MISCHKA, THE ROW, DENNIS BASSO
While I am usually a fierce fan of this collection, I am sorry to say that this season's offering left me cold. I can't say that that I didn't like it but I can say I was expecting something a bit more exciting,the dark ground floral prints with dark accessories didn't leave room for any of the usual Ralph flourishes.
Besides the spectacular dresses, it was brought to my attention that these pieces are all made in NEW YORK CITY...............and that is pretty impressive given these times. Each dress/gown is an individual work of art when you examine it. I am duly impressed that the collection has become such an important collection with such a limited amount of time. I am thinking that there are so few companies who want to just do what they do best ................and in this instance it is most definitely beautifully made gowns(long and short).
The guys showed a knock collection of gowns and plenty of short dresses for their loyal clientele as well as some more rock n roll looks which made for an expansive total collection...............and by the way i am happy to say that the models wore hose !!!!!!
The Olsen girls have certainly garnered good reviews for their collections as well as their sell thrus at retail. They have a quirky and yet sophisticated look that seems to register with the consumer...............simple and black. BUT WHY did they choose to show these dark looks with sandals.
Let the fur fly and boy oh boy the fur was great..........he clearly went back to his roots as a furrier and let the clothes play a supporting role to the stars. the clothes were a perfect complement but the leading ladies were the fur pieces.
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Thursday, February 18, 2010
NY FALL 2010 OSCAR & MICHAEL
So in a perfect world there would be tons of clients who could afford and lust for the clothes from these 2 designers.............Oscar de la Renta and Michael Kors. The reality is that the audience is even smaller than we know but that does not make these clothes any less luxurious, lush, chic and wearable.
Oscar brought the much needed dose of color in a season that could double for funereal and Michael oozes that "lady of leisure" that so many wish they were..........words are a bit uselss for clothes like these but I thought I would offer up a few.
P>S> Do not be mistaken ....Oscar was not as fabulous as I had hoped but in a season of black and grey and platforms and no hose and leggings....I say I 'll take this anytime DO NOT FORGET TO CHECK OUT ALL THE COLLECTIONS AT STYLE.COM
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Wednesday, February 17, 2010
NY FALL 2010..VERA- NARCISO- RODARTE
It's a blackout at this house, but I find this collection to be appealing. I am not normally attracted artsy clothing but this has a finished refined quality about it. There are so many pieces that can be worn other than the way they are presented...it would be hard not to find something to like. I can live without the weighty platform shoes and the overly slouchy pants but take a close look at the pieces that make up this collection.
There seems to a "curve" circulating in the air around 7th Avenue and Narciso has made full use of it with this collection. The shapes may be sharp and precise but that curve softens it up just enough......least effectively in the all silk pieces. What i cannot understand is the shoe selection for the deceptively simple and minimalist clothes.
While I marvel at the prospect of these clothes being reproduced in any multiple at all.................I cannot help but ask myself "are these the emperor's new clothes?" Besides being astronomically expensive, where does one wear them? (other than for a photo shoot or red carpet event) At first I was in awe of the creations and now I am slack jawed as to why they get so much attention and raves..........
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Tuesday, February 16, 2010
NY FALL 2010 .... DONNA, CAROLINA & ZAC
When faced with the fact that this was the 25th anniversary of the Donna Karan business, I can only say so what. 25 years ago we witnessed a defining moment in fashion and this week we saw just a better collection than most of the last ones but certainly now what DK was about 25 years ago. I found this collection to be far more appealing than so many of the past ones where all the intellect/inspiration/words never lived up to the product...........but here we see a truer Donna without so many drapes and flyaways.............just clean beautiful shapes in beautiful fabrics.
If I had to find an inspiration here I would say that Mrs. Herrera has more than tipped her hat to Mr. Blass and his dames. These clothes are for those ladies, some young some old but all with lots of style and big bank accounts. Even the models looked so sophisticated and chic in comparison to so much we have seen during these shows. It's good to know that some things don't change ............expensive clothes should look the part.
At a time when the consumer is having some serious thoughts of what should I buy,is it it too expensive, will I wear it more than once.............this collection answers all those questions with a resounding NO, YES and NO!!!! I find it exceeding difficult to find a reason for these clothes..........if I had to describe them I would have to say the collection looks like a school project that interprets 80's Ungaro moment
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NY FALL 2010...BECKHAM---DVF--SARAFPOUR
As we lumber on with the collections,It becomes increasing difficult to get through all the shows that are presented................I am starting to feel like this is more of a circus entertainment than a business. Any way I soldiered on to find some notable shows and all for different reasons
Admittedly, at the beginning I would hardly be called a fan, but as time goes on she has won me over. This is a small well edited collection which is indicative of a strong hand and a designer more seasoned than Ms. Beckham. She may be appealing to a microcosm of the top tier of the female retail client, but she does it with great aplomb. If you have the perfect body by birth or worked for it at the gym ..........then this is one stop shopping.
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG
This lady certainly has her sights set on appealing to lots of women out there...grey flannel, pinstripes, velvets, sequins, leather, skirts and pants just to name a few of the options available. she gives her ladies a huge choice in fabrication, silhouette and the possibility of combinations. Ms. Von Furstenberg has always had a particular personal style and now she offers it up to her faithful followers every season.
Her approach for the season was "What women might like to wear" and I would have to say that she may have hit the mark with this grouping. Simple and tasteful, not over the top, and she had the temerity to even have her models wear hose with nary a platform shoe in sight ..................the easily understandable palette of tan and black is as timeless as the designs
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