Sunday, September 30, 2018

AKRIS spring 2019


To think that was once a line for dowagers is almost inconceivable but alas it once was around 30 years ago or more. 
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 Today it’s all about a spare and sometimes very minimal esthetic with a focus on weightlessness and use of very specific prints, fabrics and a multitude of silhouettes that create slick clothes for all ages. This is no easy task and yet Albert Kriemler makes it look so easy; be aware than I am no ardent fan as there are some seasons I don’t care for it all but when he gets it right it is so right.
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I loved the architectural photo prints done on georgette which gives them a totally different feel than if it was a cotton or silk crepe, then there was the use of another pattern printed on different fabrics all used in one ensemble but if there was something negative to be said it was about the pieces that included “the Dali-esque eye”

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 Kriemler is an art collector and has a penchant for getting into the artsy side of fashion which usually works for him but here it was a bit iffy. No matter, as the collection as a whole is exquisitely made and always precise. For spring, I must say again that the clothes look so light almost weightless and spring certainly is the right season for it especially or suits. 
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The choice of embellishment is superb and for me it is the small things that make me call the collection modern such a zip from jacket with beading or a bronze leather zip front motocross jacket with printed georgette pants, yes there are a few clunkers in the group but it hardly matters when you look at the grouping in its entirety. Oddly there was no orange which seems to be one of the colors of the season and a color that he has frequently used.
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 Akris is a collection that has balance and variety and warrants the price that it charges which is not something that can be said of most collections. It is innovative and discreet and yet so very much in fashion while remaining timeless.

THOM BROWNE spring 2019


I have absolutely not even the vaguest idea of what I just saw but I can tell you that I was mesmerized, astounded, hypnotized and incredulous by what was paraded out in front of my eyes. I can’t offer any critique as I don’t think there is a suitable one to proffer. 
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Yes I know there were few if any pieces to really wear as shown but any lover of the art and craft of fashion has to be slack jawed by the most amazingly  precise workmanship we have seen and by the demented mind of this mad scientist of fashion. Yes there was the iconography of spring/summer but never in a jillion years could you conceive of how it was shown. No detail left untouched!
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Esthetically he proves that fashion is an art form as to what is or is not wearable would be determined in the showroom... I cannot even fathom but my eyes were glued, I wanted to touch, I wanted to examine, I wanted to feel these clothes, I wanted to stare which is so much more than I can say about 90-95% of what we have all seen for almost a month now. It is called EXCITEMENT!!
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I tip my hat to him and to Zegna for having the foresight to invest in what might possibly be the most creative collection and maybe genius of fashion that has come along in quite some time.
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WOW!

Balenciaga spring 2019


Demna Gvasalia … need I say more to explain this shit pile of clothes that mean nothing and have absolutely nothing to do with the brand’s history. What a joke! Halloween is around the corner... 
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Fodder for the influencers, label whores, know-nothings, fashion victims and a means to line the pockets of this fraud of a designer who is just an untalented Rooskie running a con. I hope there are glittering reviews to show those who know just what pandering reviewers can come up with whille  giving up their dignity and credibility in the process.
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What an embarrassment to call this fashion or new or innovative... it’s just a vehicle to hype for the tasteless and the uneducated of those who think they what fashion is all about.
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Even Zara and H&M do better on their own

Friday, September 28, 2018

Celine SPRING 2019


We have come a long way from un nom un style!!!!!
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Well I hope all the influencers, paid for reviews, fawners, label whores, Hedi fans and the rest of us fools who have been waiting on bated breath to see what the boy genius would turn out for his return to fashion and now we have seen it and all I can say is HOW FREAKIN SAD!!
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 So the label reads Celine and all we got was a Saint Laurent redux with some very minor tweaks but basically if you hung a Saint Laurent tag on these clothes no one would argue, so big whoop…. The lengths got maybe a half inch longer in some cases and the pants got a tad looser and the rest might as well be a continuation of his former employer.
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 Worse than all that is that he basically had free rein to create something totally new and the only thing Johnny one note  did was prove there aint much talent chez Hedi. So you got a few new dress styles with awkward proportions but alas the motorcycle jackets and bombers abound and staying in the vein, so did the strung out looking models who are barely pubescent and all of them with almost comical mini veiled pill box hats… huzzah! Let’s not forget the bleached denin cargo pants, the skunk striped fur or the eye picker buckled botties
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One of my favorite dresses is the one that looks like a New Year’s noise maker with a ruffle at hem and bodice, followed by his leather grease monkey jumpsuit, the only red dress, the one green dress and a few metallics thrown in and then of course there were a couple of shapes that I guess he figures they are his to use no matter what label he designs for. Then there were some oddly geometric jackets whatever they mean.
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Well let’s just say, the wait is over and the supply of Depends in Paris must be severely depleted when in fact all you really needed was an amphetamine to keep you awake thru a show that seems to have been  a been there done that scenario.
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Pauvre Hedi! Quel domage!