Sunday, September 30, 2018

AKRIS spring 2019


To think that was once a line for dowagers is almost inconceivable but alas it once was around 30 years ago or more. 
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 Today it’s all about a spare and sometimes very minimal esthetic with a focus on weightlessness and use of very specific prints, fabrics and a multitude of silhouettes that create slick clothes for all ages. This is no easy task and yet Albert Kriemler makes it look so easy; be aware than I am no ardent fan as there are some seasons I don’t care for it all but when he gets it right it is so right.
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I loved the architectural photo prints done on georgette which gives them a totally different feel than if it was a cotton or silk crepe, then there was the use of another pattern printed on different fabrics all used in one ensemble but if there was something negative to be said it was about the pieces that included “the Dali-esque eye”

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 Kriemler is an art collector and has a penchant for getting into the artsy side of fashion which usually works for him but here it was a bit iffy. No matter, as the collection as a whole is exquisitely made and always precise. For spring, I must say again that the clothes look so light almost weightless and spring certainly is the right season for it especially or suits. 
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The choice of embellishment is superb and for me it is the small things that make me call the collection modern such a zip from jacket with beading or a bronze leather zip front motocross jacket with printed georgette pants, yes there are a few clunkers in the group but it hardly matters when you look at the grouping in its entirety. Oddly there was no orange which seems to be one of the colors of the season and a color that he has frequently used.
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 Akris is a collection that has balance and variety and warrants the price that it charges which is not something that can be said of most collections. It is innovative and discreet and yet so very much in fashion while remaining timeless.

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