Thursday, July 30, 2020

Celine men’s spring 2021

From the review “As a designer with a lifelong obsession with layering youth references of the past into his work, Slimane was in his element, finally being able to riff off the energy—and the wardrobes—of a live subculture…. Hearing that this pileup of pieces that might’ve been found on a kid’s bedroom floor is not exactly what grown-ups perceive as the output of a luxury goods house would be music to Slimane’s ears.”

Well, here’s my take ... Hedi you need some help ... a therapist maybe as you are no longer young and no longer designing for kids … this is Celine where a denim “Levi” jacket is $3500, a logo tee is $375 and a pair of jeans is $770. So Hedi my fragile friend who the fuck is buying this pile that you presented for spring 2021. Sadly, it reminds me of a designer who is struggling with arrested development and might even more sadly be compared with Jeremy Scott who is also obsessed with the skate boys and the fact that he is no longer 22.
Aside from that, there are just a few other issues like we are living thru possibly one of the worst times in the fashion business or any retail business for that matter and I highly doubt there are many men who can afford this that will actually want to look like this. I usually pick apart the casting as being too young for the clothes but here it’s not a case of miscasting it’s more of a case of how many trust fund baby boys are there in the world?

Lastly, Hedi, the collection comes off as rather tone-deaf to the times and has no cohesive thread to the women’s in terms of the client or look so Hedi WTF are you thinking? Maybe Monsieur Arnault will have to  remind you that your job is not only about feeding and satisfying your ego!

Wednesday, July 29, 2020


Designers take note…. Norma Kamali has withstood the test of time and weathered the tsunamis of fashion by staying true to herself and to her brand. For me, Kamali is a shining example of why and how a brand succeeds. She has never wavered, never strays far from her original concept and always looks fresh. The saddest part of it all is I believe she one of of the most under rated designers especially in the world of American designers and possibly on an international stage as well.

The photos speak to it... it is pure 100% Norma Kamali and while she may not have a business that is 100s of millions of dollars I will take her head and shoulders over so many who received unworthy hype and press whose primary concern is selling anything other than clothes!


So here are 117,00 more words to make my point!

Thursday, July 23, 2020

DIOR resort 2021

Location/Setting: In terms of industry, the "Lecce stone"—a particular kind of is one of the city's main exports, because it is very soft and workable, thus suitable for sculptures. Lecce is also an important agricultural centre, chiefly for its olive oil and wine production, as well as an industrial centre specializing in ceramic production….Wikipedia

The premise according to the resident intellect and scholar, “la meatball,” for selecting this location was to highlight the skills and craftsmanship of the region which included weaving but that was according to her and not Wikipedia.

So with her usual panache and blah blah blah  she came up with a sort of 3 ring circus replete with masked orchestra( blue paper I might add),  a small troupe of interpretive  dancers, one of whom you expected to either heave her  guts out or miscarry right there  and then there was the San Gennaro/ Iowa state Fair colored lights atmosphere except that in this go around, the so called Chiuri feminist manifesto she has been pushing since day one … was now spelled out in lights rather than printed than on tee shirts or on banners bore no raison d’etre in relation to the collection on any level!

Then of course there was this matter of an almost 100-piece resort/pandemic collection that was shown sans audience in a robotic rhythm that can only be matched to the yawn inducing breadth and look of this collection. Think cliché Amish gypsy peasant south of the boarder resident Russian peasant wearing Mongolian lamb and round toed boots and a babushka on every head! One cannot ignore the laced corsets which not only looked like made in Turkey but actual painful to wear and that also made no sense with the clothes they accessorized.

All in all this amounted to some somnambulistic presentation cooked up by the queen of faux intellectuals who thought Italy was a logical place to show this repetitive, oddly conceived collection which zigged and zagged and wound up being clothes for the sake of clothes that had no common  thread to bind it all together except in signora’s exploding esoteric  mind.

PS. The architecture looked heavenly!