Showing posts with label fashion by the rules. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fashion by the rules. Show all posts

Saturday, August 14, 2021

Once upon a time In fashion

 There is no question that my personal tastes lean toward classic/ real  time  fashion ...  meaning true veritable design and not gimmicks, no shock and awe but actually designing a silhouette; I am a huge proponent of designer signatures and that does not mean logos, that means actually looking at a garment and knowing who designed it.

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Every day I am reminded on Instagram of just how incredibly detailed a runway show was as there wasn’t one facet of what you  saw on the runway  that  was  over looked whether palettes,  themes,  hats, makeup, hair, shapes or a detail that  ran through the collection and then of  course there were the gloves,  shoes, hose and jewelry. Today’s world of fashion pales considerably when you take all that into account.

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Today we are faced with shock/schlock and awe and designers blabbering some nonsense as if the words justify the clothes which in 95% of the words are faux intellectual ramblings that do not reflect what you are looking at. Today we have designers who design clothes for Instagram, for likes as the median age of an Instagrammer is a millennial or younger. I hardly think they are in the market for $700 jeans that look like they came out of dumpster or have the cash to buy them if they did want them. Designers of some of the most heralded and heritage brands of the 20th century have turned them into circuses of freaks, costumes or Ripley’s believe it or not filled with hubris and self-gratification.  Yes, given the job of designing for one of those brands is a weighty proposition but no one gives a crap if the name and the clothes bear any relationship to each other and what the brand stood for.

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Occasionally we are tossed a bone or scrap that MIGHT remind us of how and why these brands became juggernauts over 50 years ago and then everything else is just clothes. The instance of the current Balenciaga Couture collection which is horrifyingly heralded by the so-called fashion media looks 2 dimensional constructed with fabric as stiff as a sheet of steel... OH BUT THE HAT as if that makes up for the mockery of the collection. The eponymous designers draped, sketched, cut, sewed and were architects of their own works. Today’s renditions and iterations are photo op versions of what was once groundbreaking. I’m willing to say that most of this generation’s designers don’t possess the skillset to produce collections worthy of the brands they supposedly design for.

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Then there is the case of trying to revive brands that no millennial ever heard of let alone knew what they designed or who they designed for which brings me to the point of times have changed dramatically and the clothes of a YSL circa mid 80s are only nostalgic reminders of “how it was done!” When Karl was no more, we should mourn the last of or one of the very few who still know what fashion is and that no detail should be overlooked. Today we have a parade of frauds who would rather run their mouths and spew all this gobbledygook that even they don’t understand let alone relate to the clothes and recite press releases so that the uneducated, for the most part, fashion media can regurgitate that in their reviews when they run out of writing about venues, front rows or anything else that will prevent them from actually reviewing or addressing the collection. When is the last time you read a review that spoke of how a shoulder was set in or the length of a sleeve or blazers versus cabans?

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The mighty ad dollar has taken over the creativity and actual originality and handed these jobs to ill equipped people who can barely design a dress let alone be in charge of store design, ads, accessories and brand imaging

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Please keep in mind that the photos shown are not only about the clothes, especially since women really don’t dress like this today....at least most don’t.... but about the perfection of what runway presentations should achieve. As I have reiterated so many times, clothes do not hang on a hanger with a romance card it is impulsive, aspirational and immediate gratification... there are some who say women dress for men and some who say women dress for other women and I say can you tell the difference between Celine shredded jeans or those from Balenciaga?

PS... how can I possibly have forgotten to speak of the days when  models actually modeled.. they came down the  runway in  singles, in pairs,  in  triplets and in armies that smiled,   sashayed languidly,   turned,  stopped  removed a coat or jacket and actually  added  something to the clothes ...LIFE!

Wednesday, July 28, 2021

a startling reminder of my past

 For some unremembered  reason I  kept this article from the New York Times with these areas  highlighted...keep in mind I was 28 and  really  just starting  in the fashion business  though I  had been a textile designer for the previous  7 years .... there must have  been  good reason for those highlighted areas and scarily I  admit I have sort of lived by them without ever recalling this piece....


THE FABRIC OF LIFE by ANNE HOLLANDER Nov 28, 1978

Everybody has to get dressed and go about his business, so everybody must give a thought to

what he wears, if only to feel comfortable in public and not like a fool.

 In fact, the need not to feel like a fool is a generally deep motive in the choice of clothes, but it also seems like a weakness. “Fashion” can easily seem to be bent on making fools of everyone.

One way to escape being bothered by the disturbing importance of clothes in life is to label the whole subject “fashion,” and keep it at a convenient mental and moral distance.

“Fashion” can be associated with the worst evils of commercialism and media‐hype, and in personal life with mindless vanity and obsessive narcissism

 If clothes are only “fashion,” then obviously they are not basically serious or really important. Taking them seriously can safely be thought of as other people's business; “fashion” can be observed without participation.

 But fashion is not so easily dismissed.

 

It would be nice if the fashion business went its crazy way catering to a closed group of fanatic patrons, like the fetish‐leather‐goods trade, and ordinary people made honest garments for themselves at home.

But of course fashion and ordinary clothing have been in bed together for at least a century, ever since clothes began to be mass‐produced and fashion became an international business instead of a private game for the idle.

 

If you want to ignore fashion you will find it impossible. At the most, you can only react strongly against fashion when you buy your clothes and that effort only shows what a strong effect it is having on you.

If you pay no conscious attention, believing yourself impervious to the mode, it will creep up on you unawares and begin to produce strange effects, like the sudden thought that you might look better with shorter hair, or the inexplicable impulse to tie knots in the ends of your long scarf and drape it around your neck like an ecclesiastical stole.

 At worst, you may, without having done anything at all, suddenly begin to feel like a fool in what you are wearing, and decide you have to do something after all.Just how deeply the world really cares about its clothes is apparent in the enormous success of all the recent books on how to dress in order to get on in life.

Most of these counsel giving fashion a wide berth. It is no doubt liberating to realize that it is not vain or ridiculous but only virtuously self‐interested to care a lot about exactly what you wear.

It does not have to mean that you are playing into anybody's treacherous hands, or succumbing to the daunting rapacity of the garment business.

Two things seem personally difficult to manage: Clothes have meanings that reveal their wearers, and clothes keep changing their look.

The desire to wear a “uniform” —versions of the same unfailingly elegant and decent suit, say — and the success of books counseling such “uniforms” for successful public life indicate how thankful people are when the vexing problem of open sartorial choice no longer needs to pose a threat.

But writers of “how‐to‐succeed through‐clothes” books forget that even a well‐cut conservative suit can stay in the closet too long.

 

In the darkness, it may develop too shapely or too straight a cut, too wide or too narrow a lapel to produce the look of success; when it it exposed to the lights, it may unhappily suggest a tacky hick or gawky youth. As the range of normal ways to look marvelous inevitably changes with time, there turn out to be fashions in un‐fashion, as well as in anti‐fashion.

Clothes simply cannot be a private matter. Clothes are never visually neutral. They always publish something significant about you, and having to think about this can be painful work.

Not everybody wants to take it up. And the oldest and commonest defense against this kind of anxiety is to hold fast to the opinion that clothes are not important .But clothes don't just covet the body, they invest the self : They not only make a surface show, they strike inward from the skin.

 Our inner consciousness depends on dress, just as it depends on, sex, or on having a head and two hands.

 Nakedness is certainly a serious state; it may be mystical or magical or pleasurable, but it is not our natural condition.

 

What to wear reveals us to ourselves, not just to the world.

 Man is clothed because he is a creative and visionary creature — it is an honorable heritage, and we can't help caring about it.

We should forgive ourselves, and admit we do.

Thursday, July 30, 2020

Celine men’s spring 2021


From the Vogue.com review “As a designer with a lifelong obsession with layering youth references of the past into his work, Slimane was in his element, finally being able to riff off the energy—and the wardrobes—of a live subculture…. Hearing that this pileup of pieces that might’ve been found on a kid’s bedroom floor is not exactly what grown-ups perceive as the output of a luxury goods house would be music to Slimane’s ears.”
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Well, here’s my take ... Hedi you need some help ... a therapist maybe as you are no longer young and no longer designing for kids … this is Celine where a denim “Levi” jacket is $3500, a logo tee is $375 and a pair of jeans is $770. So Hedi my fragile friend who the fuck is buying this pile that you presented for spring 2021. Sadly, it reminds me of a designer who is struggling with arrested development and might even more sadly be compared with Jeremy Scott who is also obsessed with the skate boys and the fact that he is no longer 22.
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Aside from that, there are just a few other issues like we are living thru possibly one of the worst times in the fashion business or any retail business for that matter and I highly doubt there are many men who can afford this that will actually want to look like this. I usually pick apart the casting as being too young for the clothes but here it’s not a case of miscasting it’s more of a case of how many trust fund baby boys are there in the world?
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Lastly, Hedi, the collection comes off as rather tone-deaf to the times and has no cohesive thread to the women’s in terms of the client or look so Hedi WTF are you thinking? Maybe Monsieur Arnault will have to  remind you that your job is not only about feeding and satisfying your ego!