For some unremembered reason I kept this article from the New York Times with these areas highlighted...keep in mind I was 28 and really just starting in the fashion business though I had been a textile designer for the previous 7 years .... there must have been good reason for those highlighted areas and scarily I admit I have sort of lived by them without ever recalling this piece....
THE FABRIC
OF LIFE by ANNE HOLLANDER Nov 28, 1978
Everybody has to get dressed
and go about his business,
so everybody must give a thought to
what he wears, if only to feel comfortable in public and not like a fool.
One way to escape
being bothered by the disturbing importance of clothes
in life is to label the whole subject “fashion,” and keep it at a convenient mental
and moral distance.
“Fashion” can be associated with the worst
evils of commercialism and media‐hype, and in personal life with mindless
vanity and obsessive narcissism
It would be nice if the fashion business
went its crazy way catering
to a closed group of fanatic patrons, like the fetish‐leather‐goods trade, and ordinary
people made honest garments for themselves at home.
But of course fashion
and ordinary clothing
have been in bed together
for at least a century,
ever since clothes began to be
mass‐produced and fashion became an international business
instead of a private game for the idle.
If you want to ignore fashion
you will find it impossible. At the most, you can only react strongly against fashion when you buy your clothes
and that effort only shows what a strong effect it is having on you.
If you
pay no conscious attention, believing yourself impervious to the mode, it will
creep up on you unawares
and begin to produce strange
effects, like the sudden thought
that you might
look better with shorter hair,
or the inexplicable impulse to tie knots in the ends of your long scarf and drape it around your neck like an ecclesiastical stole.
Most of these counsel
giving fashion a wide berth. It is no doubt liberating to realize that it is not vain or ridiculous but only virtuously self‐interested to care a lot about exactly what you wear.
It does not have to mean that you are playing
into anybody's treacherous hands, or succumbing to the daunting
rapacity of the garment business.
Two things seem personally difficult to manage:
Clothes have meanings
that reveal their wearers, and clothes keep changing their look.
The desire
to wear a “uniform” —versions of the same unfailingly elegant
and decent suit, say — and
the success of books counseling such “uniforms” for successful public life
indicate how thankful people are when
the vexing problem of open sartorial choice no longer needs to pose a threat.
But writers
of “how‐to‐succeed through‐clothes” books forget that even a well‐cut conservative suit can stay in the closet too long.
In the
darkness, it may develop too shapely or too straight a cut, too wide or too
narrow a lapel to produce
the look of success; when it it exposed to the lights,
it may unhappily suggest a tacky hick or gawky youth. As the range of
normal ways to look marvelous inevitably changes with time, there turn out to be fashions
in un‐fashion, as well as in anti‐fashion.
Clothes
simply cannot be a private matter. Clothes are never visually neutral. They always publish
something significant about
you, and having
to think about
this can be painful work.
Not everybody wants to take it up.
And the oldest and commonest defense against this kind of anxiety
is to hold fast to the opinion
that clothes are not important .But clothes don't just covet the body, they invest the self : They not
only make a surface show, they strike inward from the skin.
What to wear reveals us to ourselves, not just to the world.
We should forgive
ourselves, and admit we do.
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