One might subtitle this collection as Death In Venice!
One thing we know for sure is that this collection was not designed as work wear since I’m not quite sure where or why you’d wear these clothes.
Vaccarello said he referenced Yves’ 70’s and 80s collections which indeed he did but he weakly referenced the women’s collections and paraded out a cavalcade of pirate shirts, capes, platform boots, shoes that hurt just by looking at them and let’s not forget lace blouses all shown in models of questionable gender!
These are clothes that cost 1000s of dollars and can only be worn by the very young or shall I say should only be worn by the very young and now you do the math!
YSL menswear never set the world on fire as I was a good customer in those early years at Rive Gauche before the Bidermann years. My point being, you never looked like you shopped in the back of your mother’s closet and the clothes were not age centric but they were luxe, chic, understated and fabulous. Fact is, I bought my very first pair of sweats at Rive Gauche and even they were fabulous and keep in mind this was about 35 years ago ... they were simple drawstring cotton fleece lined but they had thermal tuxedo stripes running down the legs.
There is
nothing discreet here nothing soigné or natty except for a few tailored jackets and might I
add that even 35 or 40 years ago spencer jackets for men were not flying off
the racks for any designer. If Vaccarello was really influenced by the collections
of those years where are the lush color combinations, the bold statement making
clothes and the aspiration that went with it all.
The only
thing I see here is buy these clothes, wear them in daylight and pray no one
throws stones at you!
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