YSL men’s spring 2022

One might subtitle this collection as Death In Venice!

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One thing we know for sure is that this collection was not designed as work wear since I’m not quite sure where or why you’d wear these clothes.

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Vaccarello said he referenced Yves’ 70’s and 80s collections which indeed he did but he weakly referenced the women’s collections and paraded out a cavalcade of pirate shirts, capes, platform boots, shoes that hurt just by looking at them and let’s not forget lace blouses all shown in models of questionable gender!

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These are clothes that cost 1000s of dollars and can only be worn by the very young or shall I say should only be worn by the very young and now you do the math!

Leg o mutton ruffled neck lace blouse on men is a mockery of the late designer.At a time when we are all trying reach the post pandemic stage of life, these clothes are almost an insult or possibly just erasing the past 18 months as if they never happened.

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YSL menswear never set the world on fire as I was a good customer in those early years at Rive Gauche before the Bidermann years. My point being, you never looked like you shopped in the back of your mother’s closet and the clothes were not age centric but they were luxe, chic, understated and fabulous. Fact is, I bought my very first pair of sweats at Rive Gauche and even they were fabulous and keep in mind this was about 35 years ago ... they were simple drawstring cotton fleece lined but they had thermal tuxedo stripes running down the legs.

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There is nothing discreet here nothing soigné or natty except for a few tailored jackets and might I add that even 35 or 40 years ago spencer jackets for men were not flying off the racks for any designer. If Vaccarello was really influenced by the collections of those years where are the lush color combinations, the bold statement making clothes and the aspiration that went with it all.

The only thing I see here is buy these clothes, wear them in daylight and pray no one throws stones at you!

Saint Laurent summer 2021

 WOW! I’m not one who is big on watching these film presentations but I am compelled to say  that this was a tour de  force  as well as an incredible  example of a designer growing into  his place as designer for a heritage brand. Vaccarello has demonstrated he knows much more of the brand’s DNA than a smoking!

I won’t go on and on and but I’m thrilled to see the respect, the grandeur, the presentation that can proudly stand up to the legacy of Yves St Laurent.

Just watch the  film….   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4qCLjjGkBrw

Betty & Yves ....

“1967 was a vintage year in the history of muses, those extraordinary creatures endowed with an irresistible and mysterious je ne sais quoi that kindles the imagination and inspiration of artists.” —Olivier Lalanne

Betty Catroux, Yves Saint Laurent: Feminine Singular is a memoir of sorts, a love letter, the anatomy of a friendship that was more like a romance as well as an endearing and melancholy trip down memory lane. Melancholy in a way that is not teary but joyous, that expounds on friends who were more than just kindred spirits with their singular vision of how life should be led, warts and all. The depth of their relationship is something that very few of us ever get to experience in life.

FOR THE FULL REVIEW  FOLLOW THE LINK  BELOW

www.nyjournalofbooks.com/book-review/betty-catroux-yves-saint

Vintage defined!..

vin·tagenoun \ˈvin-tij\
a period in which something was made or was begun
a period of origin or manufacture <a piano of 1845 vintage>
length of existence : age

This is how Meriam Webster defines the word vintage.

For those of us who consider ourselves “fashionphiles,” vintage clothing was at one time the step child of fashion. It was regarded as slightly less than and looked at slightly askance. The facts are that vintage clothing is and has been the laboratory from which modern fashion has evolved.

Vintage clothing offers a look back, as well as a look into the future of fashion. These clothes are no longer offered in the musty confines of some out of the way second hand or thrift store but in establishments that rival or have replaced the once fabled multi-brand specialty store retailers that rose to fame in the 80’s.

It is an open secret that many of the most ubiquitous brands have staffs that scour many of these retailers for ideas that surface in future collections. The unfortunate part of the scenario is that the original designer is never given proper credit for the look. Further complicating matters is that the “NEW” garment is passed off as an original concept without any provenance. To take things one step further, the original is rarely improved upon, if not severely diluted.

Once upon a time designers were influenced by an art movement or a period in history or per chance even a location. In the present world of style and fashion, so many designers prefer to use verbal esoterica as a means of description or inspiration. Simply said, when YSL presented his homage to the 40’s there was no mistaking it whereas in the 21^st century we get philosophical bull that has nothing to do with the clothes, except in the deluded designer’s head, and everything to do with trying to explain away ugly clothes. If you take it down to bare bones it is this: these are clothes, this is not rocket science and there is no need for a treatise to describe a collection. Clothes should speak for themselves and reflect a designer’s inspiration ... no instruction manual required.

Currently, vintage fashion has become a badge of honor for the wearer as it signifies a great respect for fashion, its history and for the once famous designers. The new owner can proudly state that it is indeed “vintage” or perhaps they can say “oh yes this is where so and so got his ideas from.” The dress, jacket or accessory suddenly has heritage and roots rather than being looked upon as yesterday’s news.

If you accept the tenets of vintage clothes in the same way that you do any collectible, then you have reached a higher plateau of understanding. Such acknowledgements have elevated vintage fashion to its current status by removing any stigma that was once attached. So many designers of the past were true innovators, originators and provocateurs while now we have stylists rather than designers. The originators are too often forgotten.

Vintage fashion/designers occupy an almost reverential position in the hierarchy of createurs. Please consider the following names that influenced and continue to influence fashion to this day: Blass, Chanel, Halston, Christian Dior, Hubert Givenchy, Capucci, Adolfo, Mackie, Valentino Garavani, Anne Klein, YSL, Thea Porter, Bill Gibb, Mollie Parnis, Galanos, Beene, Trigere, Scott Barrie, Ceil Chapman, and so many many more. If you aren’t acquainted with these names then it is safe to say that your fashion education is not complete. These were major players who made fashion an international business. Again it would be like offering a version of the Mona Lisa and not giving credit to Leonardo for the original.

SAINT LAURENT SPRING 2015

Apparently Donatellamommamia and Hedi have something in common. Yes kids, it is that dead horse they keep beating, actually it is 2 separate dead horses they continually beat.

Hedi who could give Barbie and Mattel a run for their money making doll clothes also can’t and  I am guessing won’t be letting go of the 60’s and 70’s anytime soon. Frankly it is boring. What makes it all the more boring is the heroin chic models with smudged eyes that show off these rags while wearing clumsy heavy looking platform shoes with good sturdy fat heels.

This season we are introduced to handkerchief points, some Jodi Foster Taxi Cab looks and stars and then we are back to shrunken $3000 jackets and heavily beaded tunics cum dresses, , some LBD’s all accessorized further by ratty hats and rattier scarves BUT who’s paying attention. Leopard print check,  motorcycle jackets check, studs check, hats check, skin tight pants, plenty of price upon request items and all the other so called signatures that “Mr. caught in a time warp” has employed over and over again under the guise of the NEW Saint Laurent signatures ... you know the one without the Yves!

Here’s the deal if you like this sort of thing that’s great... enjoy if you can afford to drink the Kool Aid and if not line up behind me who has already lived this and it was better but more well executed then and a lot cheaper.

By the way, Mr. Slimane certainly adheres to the dictum of sticking to your vision and building a brand identity …  tired as it may be.

Please spare me the references of the chubby, the pinstripes and the smokings!

The Interviewer's interview

Editors note - I decided that it would be fun to interview all the various people that write here on Shrimpton Couture's Curate and also work behind the scenes to bring you all the amazing content and Vintage Couture that you see posted daily on our sites. I asked Maria to set up interviews with everyone (and then I will turn the tables on her at some point). We decided to break each interview into two sets of questions - the first set is a more focused and in-depth look at each member of our team and then the second set quick round that will be asked of everyone. Today we meet Jeffrey ....


If we read to feel we are not alone, then Jeffrey Felner’s world is one of unmatched sartorial splendor. Felner has penned hundreds of book reviews spanning every topic of personal adornment, and along the way, has acquired an invaluable wealth of fashion knowledge. And while his career was focused on production and sales, Felner has the soul of a critic. His voice is as discerning as it is bright, and one would be smart to follow his guidance up and down the world’s glossiest runways, not to mention along the ever-growing bookshelves of fashion tomes. Be sure to catch his wonderful series “Impossible Conversations” on CURATE, and if you are feeling frisky, head over to his blog for the latest review of the Fall 2014 Haute Couture presentations.

I’d like to start with your Impossible Conversation features, which are a real gas. Have you always been imaginative and clever?
I am pretty savvy when it comes to life so I hope I am very clever even though I can honestly say it is a skill that gets honed over the course of one’s life. The “ghost” interviews or the truly “impossible conversations” are fabulous for me as I get to play a character after having read and studied about the person. I try to be faithful to the subject and I try very hard to be a bit bitchy but honest as that surely adds to the fun of it.

One of the points I take away from the series is that fashion is an industry full of strong voices – in your opinion, what individuals have the strongest voices in fashion?
I have little to no use for those who regurgitate press releases and discuss front rows and venue when reviewing a collection. Today we have fawners and panderers for the most part who are afraid of insulting a potential or existing advertiser. I don’t buy into the Tavi’s and Bryan Boys as I believe that in order to truly open a discourse on fashion, one needs to be educated by what they read, by literally working in the trenches of fashion, whether it is retail or wholesale, and being able to apply experience to knowledge and then translate that to what is presented to you. There are very few reviewers that I truly respect but I do like Robin Givhan as she is bright, articulate and knowledgeable.

I really enjoyed your book reviews, which are concise and instructive. Can you tell us your favorite fashion book?I have come to enjoy so many of my books … my favorite subjects rather than specific books are Mrs. Vreeland who I find endlessly astounding and inspiring; Dior, both brand and designer as they are an endless source of history and education; and Karl who is a walking book in himself exclusive of his creative output but there are so many fabulous one off books that I have loved. Books need to be impulsive, covetable and visceral for the reader.

What is your least favorite?
Without naming names let’s say that there was a book on Minimalism in fashion that was written in the most arcane and esoteric language and manner that I found it almost laughable. It might be trite to say it but it is clothes not rocket science and while I take fashion very seriously, I understand that it is not a cure for cancer or a solution to world peace. What also causes me to be offended is when I believe that the author has no clue about the subject or that some information within a book is incorrect and has not been thoroughly fact checked.

You have worked in many facets of the fashion industry, as a textile designer, buyer, critic. I was wondering how you felt about the current pace of fashion, and the hoopla that surrounds the shows? What improvements would you make and do you think change is possible? I think designers talk too much for starters. They design clothes and while it may be perfectly fine to discuss one’s inspiration for a collection there is no reason for a treatise on the subject... What is often ignored and rarely spoken of when a collection is reviewed is whether or not a collection is salable, merchandised well or who the target audience might be. Another factor that seems to be excluded is the price of some of these wonders which does play a part in the business of fashion. Lastly it would be nice for the reviewer to be smart enough to make a reference if a theme has been done before or a style or technique etc.

What is your favorite thing about New York?
New York City is a living breathing runway show every single day no matter where you go and no matter what you do. For me, it is just a visual feast that allows me to see a variety of subjects whether it is people in the street, store windows, buildings, and subway riders or dogs being walked. I am educated and enlightened every day even if I have only been to the supermarket and the dry cleaner that day.

TO READ THE INTERVIEW IN ITS ENTIRETY ....PLEASE  VISIT ...http://www.shrimptoncouture.com/blogs/curate/14793641-meet-our-team-jeffrey-felner

Saint Laurent resort 2014

It has taken me a few seasons to adjust to the current state of affairs at the NEW Saint Laurent as opposed to the YSL we all came to revere, adore and respect.  Mr. Slimane is intent on not changing the essence of the brand but slamming us on the head and beating it into us that this is HIS Saint Laurent.

Each collection, including Resort 2014, is filled with  hubris  and the ”I dare you”  attitude”  that he seems to project since he took the reins and changed the name as if to reinforce this is HIS way.  Well, hard as it is to believe, he uses the DNA of the brand, he might stretch the reference until it is microscopically thin, but the DNA is there.  Please do not get me wrong, this is not a ringing endorsement of his design prowess or his vision for the house.

Resort 2014 shows us again his my way or the highway attitude by shooting the look book, yes he thinks he is the Helmut Newton of our time, as a series of photos that might be and will be used in the advertising for the house.  As if to say who cares about you, he takes it a step further by photographing in black and white.  That’s just dandy but really, get over yourself and realize that you didn’t invent the way business is conducted and you won’t change it either.  Sorry, Hedi, the clothes still must sell to stores, even “your “own and then they have to sell to that client/customer so let’s have a closer look at what this wunderkind is proposing.

The shawl collar blazer which seems to have now become a cornerstone of the new Saint Laurent is in danger of disappearing; if Mr. Slimane shrinks it anymore the model will be carrying it as a handbag and PLEASE let me point out that the basic style is “bargain priced” at around $3600 USD retail…. Who wouldn’t want to be constricted in this for that price?  The few total looks he photographs are certainly adequate enough but if one has a resume of more than 3 years, one might see the immediate references of other houses.  Horrors, yes Hedi, it is you did not invent these looks.  Really now, a Saint Laurent Birkin...surely you can do better, and then the leather pants, shrunken blazer and sheer blouse with chained strapped logo envelope bag... even the words conjure an image of Chanel .  BTW, kudos for the YSL cuff which I am sure will be priced as if it is precious jewelry.

 

Yes, in your Kool Aid induced design frenzy, you have deigned to use the original YSL jacket idea as show pieces for the collection exceptt one can only imagine the stratospheric prices that they entail being that they are totally embellished or encrusted but again, if ones memory was longer than 5 years, one might recall a house by the name of St. Martin that had showrooms full of that sort of thing.  When all is said and done, it is still all about clothes, clothes that sell, clothes that induce lust and clothes that sell at retail.

In some twisted convoluted way, you must be thinking they will buy what I give them and tell them to wear... there is a problem there, you are not Karl Lagerfeld and your brand is not Chanel and thusly lies the fly in the ointment.  It is also odd that the majors and even the magazines choose not to advertise and editorialize the “mood/brood” part of your collections but the more commercial aspects of it like...COLOR!

Anyway, the collection is somewhat more appealing that the beginning ones but it is kicking and screaming its way to being a bit more grown up.  He might want to reconsider using a model that doesn’t look strung out or just finished with a roll in the hay as Mr. Slimane just might be targeting the wrong kind of girl.  In essence, all this mood and posturing is getting very boring which means that there is no longer any urgency in seeing this collection as it just trudges onward in the same way…. Yawn!