Wednesday, February 21, 2018

Moschino fall 2018



Okay so let’s see.. oh yes right the Jackie Kennedy thing…. Over and over and over and over again. 
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Message received… the Easter egg palette, the profusion of zippers and bad memories of bonded black patent cracking on collars and trim…. then of course there are the comic book prints … who cares …. along with one Moschino  logo print … who cares  …. and OMG some of the most horrendously ugly evening dresses ever to walk  a runway. Oh lest we forget the awning stipes which somehow appeared from nowhere and the body painting for no other reason than why not do it. 
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This is just some exercise in thrift store finds, zippers and supposedly space age 60s…………… again maybe a little Cardin, Courreges and Emma Peel references but other than that it is the usual fare of “doll clothes” … keep selling those accessories and that scent as I can’t see them breaking down the doors to look like they fell out of a time capsule.
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H&M here we come !! THE KITSCH AND TONGUE IN CHEEK OF FRANCO MOSCHINO HAS CERTAINLY STRAYED FROM ITS ROOTS!

Gucci fall 2018



My first question is... WAS the venue an operating room where they conduct lobotomies, abortions or gynecological exams or maybe sex changes? I’m quite sure there is some sort of esoteric and arcane explanation to it but I really don’t give a crap unless maybe the metaphor was that you need to surgically dissect  some of these get ups to find out what the collection really looks like.
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Without diving into too much detail this over styled, over wrought, overly intentionally put together show might have actually yielded a few wearable pieces for the first time in accountable memory. Unfortunately for many they will be totally unaffordable. What really came to mind here ... what she couldn’t wear she carried which brings me to heads, snakes, and I was actually waiting for dead babies in this absurdly pretentious and purposely shocking display.
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A collection like this certainly opens the door to throw it all up against the wall and see what sticks and then add some more to it until it's practically  blinding and falls off the wall again. No rhyme, no reason and rarely any semblance of beauty... just stuff… over done... over embellished... overly exaggerated stuff meant to shock.
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So if this makes your heart race and your pulse quicken then I suggest you have that lobotomy sooner than later as this is nothing but some glorified wet dream of a demented costume party. I can’t wait to hear what the significance is of NY logo ( I wonder if the Yankees get a royalty).  Why is it that the more cerebral or faux intelligent the designer… the uglier the clothes! 
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I’M DONE.... PS nary an original thought in sight

Moncler ... Pierpaolo Piccioli fall 2018




This static installation … as that is all it can be called since the models are rendered immobile…
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While visually arresting is about as exciting as waiting for Venus de Milo to grow back her arms. 
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Shock and awe are than name of the game and the puffer has now been elevated to sculptural material despite its light weight. At stratospheric prices you too can be mummified Moncler/Pierpaolo Piccioli style. Again. Visually amazing and after that 95% is all for show... yawn… but I guess those  $1000 ski jackets must really sell like hotcakes to offset  the cost of what this high art extravaganza must have cost. Somehow it reminds me of a modernist  Stonehenge or possibly the pyramids… you get the idea … something monolithic 
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Piccioli obviously has that one monastic fetish that somehow gets translated into everything he does and one might have thought  that the concept would have grown  on me but alas here I am reminded of monks disguised as decorative  rump roast or padding used for shipping breakable objects.
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So…let the fawning begin... the mama mias have already begun!!

PS.. if i gave him more credit I might have said this is the 21st century incarnation of Norma Kamali's sleeping bag coat from the 80s

Tuesday, February 20, 2018

David Koma fall 2018 LFW



There is something about what this young man does that catches my attention more often than not … whether for Mugler or his eponymous brand. Firstly it should be said that the clothes look designed as in not thrift store retreads or relying on whatever the trend of the day is as to appear  au courant. The clothes look modern, young in spirit, beautifully made and presented as grown up clothes. This is not to say that these clothes are a “universal” since unquestionably they are for women who are in better to great shape.
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Obviously you can see a bit of what he does for Mugler in the tailoring and slashing and you can even see a reference to Alaia in silhouette and embellishment but no matter since those are brief interludes within a  full  collection. My only question is how the peacock plume got in there unless that was the commercial aspect of the collection making its statement. The all sequin pieces were a tad iffy not because of the styling so much but the fabric itself certainly didn’t smart of Norell. BUT take a look at the more structured dresses and jackets of course the fringed pieces.
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All in all there is something classy, sexy, maybe even a bit trashy and modern about what  this collection represents. Koma makes his point and surely tell us who his customer is by what he shows. The point is… he can come sit next to me!
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