Thursday, January 18, 2018

the conundrum of Paris fall men's 2018



What’s wrong with this picture? 
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Could it be that these clothes barely rise to the level of design school projects? 
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Could it be that these are nothing more than the emperor’s new clothes? 
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Could it be that this might pass for trend or real fashion? Could it be that these are nothing more than fillers… shows that make a schedule so crowded that there is no time to get to the ones that you really have to see? 
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Could it be that there is nothing to really see and the sensationalism that pervades our lives makes this stuff newsworthy? 
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Could it be there is a communal design room under the city of Paris? Maybe the water has been infused with mind altering drugs. Has no one ever understood the word edit?
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What would designers do without bombers, Adidas track pants, hoodies, puffer jackets, silk screen tees and the most outrageously unwearable get ups?
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Valentino Men’s fall 2018




The question is simply why am I not enamored by this collection….ever? Yes great coats and outerwear from bombers to nurse’s capes to swing coats to pea coats to puffers. Sadly this is not just an outerwear collection.
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So there were some beautiful color combinations, so kohl rimmed eyes on androgynous boys wearing high waisted narrow legged daddy pants. A few great knits but nothing exactly historic. If anything... camo and stars are not exactly news at this point.
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Unquestionably the patterned coats/jackets are wonderful buy hardly groundbreaking... the other thing that cannot go unnoticed is that these clothes are a fortune... there are no $100 pants or even $500 jackets or trainers for that matter so tell me past the fashion victims who would starve for it and men who are mostly too old to wear this .. 
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Who is buying it?

Wednesday, January 17, 2018

Haider Ackermann FALL 218 MENS




When Ackermann started not so long ago I was thoroughly enraptured by what he was doing… there was this lush layering ... these exquisite color combinations and a sort of sprezzatura and manly sexiness that was surely out of the ordinary for a French collection. Yes, it was always about the tailoring but there was also this amazing softness but with an edge … if that makes any sense.
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Then came the hype, then came the trend chasing and now there are only traces and a sort of mutated DNA that doesn’t quite come across the same way. Some may say evolved but I say that the collection, while still somewhat beautiful, has sacrificed its original DNA to excessive styling and what’s hot and almost looks as if it’s trying too hard to be cool
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I honestly believe this guy has way more than he is putting out there as well as an abundance of talent that is missing from so many of this new so called breed of designer. 
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Like it yes, love it, no... Disenchanted … yes!

Stella McCartney Men’s fall 2018



I seem to think that maybe … just MAYBE... she has something to bring to the table here. No. not the boring bland simple suitings and jackets but rather the patterning and mood of this freshman collection.



 I like the take on camouflage and leopard … I like the detail of the stripes on the raincoat or the flaps on the duffle… is it a one hit wonder?? .. It’s anyone’s guess but at least it looks like clothes that can be worn by a variety of fashion conscious men without looking like they just stepped out of either a costume pic or clothes fresh from the second hand store.



PS however.. the scenic NikNik shirt certainly does harken to the 70s… regrettable at best

Palomo Spain..... Bonjour Paris ...




c'est drĂ´le ou est-ce?

Fey: quaintly unconventional: campy or did I hear gay
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So it’s sort of Velasquez meets Oscar Wilde meets Gainsborough meets drag.
Paris is off and  running with the costume ball to end all balls or was that this guy has balls to show clothes, and I use the term loosely, that look like this. I will say that the clothes or whatever … costumes … are steeped in history and yes in fact were actually designed … these are surely not the cookie cutter looks we have seen time and time again on runways around the world. 
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The narrative here is inconsequential because who cares since these clothes or whatever they might be  are not made to be worn in any way that resembles salable real life clothes so whatever the blah blah blah is  and I say  yeah yeah yeah whatever.
At any rate this is a jolt to the senses.. Especially the visual. I ask myself if any of these boys were embarrassed to be paraded out looking like caricatures waiting to be bullied?
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Here’s a little excerpt from a so called valid fashion media review …. It should also be mentioned that Palomo appeared to be moving into areas more salable. Often his pieces are one of a kind, and not designed to be produced, but those bags and shoes and an excellent duffle coat will hold a somewhat wider commercial appeal. All together, it was a grand opening to Paris men’s week, and a valid, important talking point at that.
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You can decide for yourself just how grand the opening was!!
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