AUGURI>>>>>> THE LAST EMPEROR Valentino

 AUGURI Valentino Garavani... THE CHIC, as dubbed by the illustrious John Fairchild, Valentino lived the life of his customer.. glamorous , stylish, urbane, impeccably turned out at all times...

he is one of the last of a breed that no longer exists.... Happy 90!!!!

Valentino pre-fall 2018

What the hell just happened here? gone are the nuns, the monastic robes, the storytelling coats and dresses, the bland minimalism and the pre Raphaelite girls who haunted, pervaded and infected the runways of the house for far too long. Don’t get me wrong, I am not sure this is the cure but hell there are pieces here that actually look like Valentino... I’m not quite understanding how you segue from parochial to prostitute but I’m in!

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Party dresses, flirty dresses, chic or close to that dresses... no capes no funeral togs … what’s a girl to do... not only can one see Valentino Garavani but one might espy Ungaro and Valli mixed in … imagine that, it actually skews young instead of death rattle!

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It’s too bad the images are so arty instead of straightforward so that the clothes could be fully appreciated but one can live in hope and as for that logo crap… who cares

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Lastly why stoop to the level of guccifying the collection even in small part?

Valentino.. Paris ..spring 2015

Talk about overdone, over worked, over printed, and over the top... yikes!

First things first, these 2 need to edit as there is no reason for such a huge collection especially with all the repetitive shapes and styles. Next up, they gotta get rid of some of these sissy missy necklines and collars that tend to make the clothes look so matronly and prissy. Lastly, wouldn’t it be nice if they finally realize that transparent does not translate to young.

The very graphic prints used toward the start of show should be read as playful and sort of resort wear but instead they were treated so seriously as to seem out of place and oddly matched to styles. The pastel group that included some wonderful solid dresses and separates was not in need of the skimpy ruffled georgette pieces. The excruciatingly beautiful “step down couture” pieces were a bit too plentiful but that seems to be their wont in every collection. The broderie anglaise pieces were just pitch perfect but them  they got all carried away with the super eyelet pieces dyed degrade etc. it is all almost schizophrenic in its totality. One really has to wonder what this collection would be if they didn’t offer a million and one options and keep using certain styles over and over again in color ways.   Many styles seem to be at odds with which fabric they have been made of and maybe that’s the point but it is far too jarring in my eyes.

My question is simply this... what would happen if they utilized some  of the slick and chic of Mr. Garavani and incorporated it into their collections, yes, these designers have without question continued the legacy of fine workmanship and art of craft but the collections come off a bit bohemian and sterile rather that worldly sophisticate ... make sense??

If one had to summarize, it is safe to say there are more than a few stand out pieces and more than enough wearable pieces but for me this collection really would have greatly benefited with some tight editing and more of a singular story.

Valentino resort 2014

Resort 2014

Dear Maria and Pierpaolo,

So kids... ragazzi... WTF are you thinking here?  This collection looks like Missy, Muffie and Mopsey go to either convent school, preppy sleep away camp or some porno fantasy boarding school.  I am so disturbed by the models and the clothes that I am not sure I can properly tell you what I am thinking.

There is some sort of little girl playing dress up or fairy tale quality about the collection which is reinforced by the odd proportions of almost EVERYTHING, almost as if she is outgrown the clothes she tries on or is too old to be wearing some of it!  The palette is very appealing and it is too bad that the color can’t make up for the design of the collection.

You seem to also have some sort of monastic fascination which throws me every season.  Valentino is not a collection for little girls; it is supposed to be a collection for those WOMEN who wish to dress in a chic and stylish manner.  Yes, yes, I know there is an incredible amount of workmanship involved in this huge collection but hell...who cares when it looks like this?

On a minor but fleeting positive note, the camo trench is great, the leopard bag is great and some of the laces are just wonderful but the strange far outweighs the collection’s assets.  Shall I point out the “cheap as free lunch” looking yellow fur camo wrap which looks like some nightmare from Forever21? … Or the mini pastel 2 pieces looks which can double as doll clothes?? And really…riding boots!

I am sorry that Signor Garavani must see what you do even though he seemingly gives his seal of approval.  My take is that he is just happy the names continues and why get agitated as he is wildly rich and his legacy continues despite its flaws.

And no! I can’t even look you two in the eyes and have a cappuccino... not until you wise up... so ciao ciao and baci baci kids!

J