Saturday, January 18, 2020

WHY… Fall 2020 Paris men’s


I have some questions that I’m hoping someone smarter and more logical than I can answer:
click image to enlarge
WHY suddenly do we suddenly normalize drag and call it gender fluid?
click image to enlarge
WHY are so many generic clothes runway worthy? 
click image to enlarge
WHY does anyone want to look like this?
click image to enlarge
WHY does it look like a guide to thrift store shopping? 
click image to enlarge
 WHY has shock and awe replaced design and fashion? 
click image to enlarge
WHY do designers think using prepubescent boys as models make clothes look younger?
click image to enlarge
WHY is looking like you’re wearing someone else’s clothes make you fashionable? 
click image to enlarge
WHY are so many of these collections even reviewed or shown? 
click image to enlarge
WHAT happened to reality?
click image to enlarge
WHY do so many designers seem to live in an alternate universe?

You are welcome to add to the list... feel free

Balmain fall 2020 men’s


As I have written time after time about Olivier Rousteing, the boy has talent! I have always been a fan of his underpinnings that he has consistently shown under his tailored pieces in previous collections BUT one more time an editor’s pencil was sorely needed especially with this collection!
click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge
Not only was it repetitive to beat the band but then he opted to choose an Hermรจs like print to populate the collection…. Not a good idea at all for someone who says he was thinking of Africa, his ancestry and his roots when he designed the collection… waxed batiks??/ ikats??  C’mon girl get your shit together and do your homework. Your ancestors weren’t mummies!! 
click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge
While the palette worked the collection was overkill on so many levels ... all that wrapping, swathing and draping and cowling and yes, I personally love it but how long does it take to get into these get-ups and where are you going in them. The tailored pieces were as usual razor sharp but there were these odd pieces like the calvary placket outerwear jacket and a seemingly ode to Schiaparelli’s sunburst cape. What’s odd is that all the wrapping seemed to recall the very beginnings of Haider Ackerman which all fell by the wayside and maybe today we can see why.
click image to enlarge
With 35 or 40 exits he could he have created a far more cohesive and impactful collection that really made a statement rather than his audience being beaten over the head with these looks alike looks. If you want to base a collection on your roots you don’t have to imagine what your ancestors or genetic relations wear...  that’s what google is for or better yet get on a freakin plane and go look!
click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge
 One last thing... your over 3 million Instagram followers…. Well my guess is 2,995,000 of them are H&M customers and that’s a generous guess on my part!!

Friday, January 17, 2020

Berluti fall men’s 2020


Well, that was refreshing! Kris Van Assche has done a masterful job with this   collection even if truly believe that Sartori was really a start at Berluti. Yes, the collection skews younger but I’m sure the prices haven’t done the same which is what really complicates the brand’s impact.
click image to enlarge
Some of the clothes are truly fabulous like the full-length herringbone shaded puffer and the black/fuchsia double face top coat. Remember, Berluti started as a shoe brand and in keeping with that Van Assche certainly made use of the brands shaded leather patinas and added some truly great patternings like the “Bambi dot” and the stripings. My issue is that it’s too bad that the leathers were shown in such a matchy matchy way head to toe. 
click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge
Color is surely a welcomed aspect but one really must face facts and ask if the man who can afford this brand will run out to buy a flaming red or hot pink suit or one that borders on chartreuse. I’m not quite sure why Van Assche chose trainers as the go to footwear since I believed that ship had sailed by now.
click image to enlarge
Take away all the logic and  just focus on the visual and it’s a glorious celebration of what menswear can look like even when the fashion world has gone mad trying to justify and normalize the likes of Gucci et al! The collection is polished precise, a little superfly but a lot of simply wearable pieces whether bought as complete turnouts or as pieces.
click image to enlarge
Last thing, its too bad the casting wasn’t a tad older looking and not so barely past 20 years old since as said Berluti doesn’t come cheap! One last thought is that it occurs to me that the collection does remind me of Paul Smith when he does color on steroids!