Saturday, May 26, 2018

Dior resort 2019


The esoteric equestrian theme for Dior resort 2019 is based on the escaranuza … the female riders that compete in Mexico’s version of a rodeo. The escaranuza riders also only wear garments of cotton or linen; simple, hard-wearing fabrics gussied up with fabulous embroideries and silver objects. Doesn’t it all sound so Dior ... so chic, so imaginative, and so pregnant with possibility, so well researched yeah .... well, guess what? .. In the hands of Mamamiameatball you get just one more ho-hum folly to add to the growing list of debacles that the brand has produced under her tutelage. 
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The clothes are either pedestrian, yawn worthy, J Crew-ish, more Valentino than Dior and pretty much just without purpose. Look on the bright side … Melania has finally found a collection satisfies her belt fetish with ones that start right under her boobs and extend up to about 6 inches in width covering the lower section of her rib cage, provided she still has those ribs. Then of course, there were the leather breast plates, her de rigeur transparency (nipples) and mukluks or rubber stable/paddock boots to polish off this extremely chic and sophisticated look ….. NOT!

  
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She has suddenly been taken with the Bar jacket or some watered down version of  that and seems to think  it is the perfect mate with everything  from shorts to khaki to tulle  but that is  her  demented idea of how one combs one of the richest fashion archives and retains the DNA of the brand. 
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Let’s return to the theme which upon researching one finds that these women generally wear sombreros; so one might imagine the possible  fabulousity that might have happened with that notion but la meatball turned sombrero into fedora ... makes sense yes? ..  Not to mention the somber color palette which surely looked drab and dull?   
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Then once again,  the models are made up to look as if they are not made up at all which suddenly might cast this sort of Sapphic aura over the collection, certainly some of these clothes would be much more appealing had they been shown as elegant and refined which is certainly more in keeping with the reputation of the brand  but  now  we have to make a statement about  empowering women AGAIN which at this point has become quite tired at best, if not overstated by now, hence no heels nor feminine footwear…. Each season we seem to get a new version of Dior Doc Martens.  To her credit though there were no tee shorts with words or phrases on them but I wouldn’t give that long before they return.
Olé might have been perfect or Olé Dior!!
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My mind wanders when Dior uses toile in this collection the pieces look as if they came from a bedspread and then I think of toile at Oscar de la Renta and toile was superbly elegant and feminine. Something is horribly askew with la mama and the heavy handedness she has brought to Dior. There is no point in my beating this dead horse as it died seasons ago soon after her appointment. 
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Saying that the brand has been tarnished is akin to saying that Maria Callas could carry a tune! Nuff said

Wednesday, May 23, 2018

Oscar de la Renta resort 2019


Here is a lesson in how a heritage brand evolves. The Monse team has not let go or abandoned the spirit of Oscar. From the broderie anglaise references to the dots and colors, to the tiers, to the elaborate ball gowns . . . they are all present and accounted for with great skill in the translation and evolution.
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What was a bit sad were the blue plaid pieces, some of the toiles and some of the more sportswear type pieces. The point being that there is enough here to please the “new” Oscar customer as well as the one who has morphed with the future of the brand. This is not the ladies who lunch anymore. These are clothes that lack any trend and are slick and chic and in many ways ageless or timeless.
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It’s my opinion that if Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia can hold steady and steer the course of the brand in this direction that there will be great cause for celebration. I don’t even want to know what the so called media elite has to say as their credibility has sunk to a level which equals that of Trumps popularity.
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With all this said ... if we were on American Bandstand I’d give this an 85  ... easy to wear easy to understand and in keeping with the DNA of the eponymous designer! KUDOS!!

Valentino resort 2019


 In its original incarnation Valentino’s brand brought to mind many things, among those would be chic, slick, expensive, red, sexy, raffiné, sometimes matronly, exquisitely rendered, impeccable details, body conscious and this list can continue   but be aware are this …………… this incarnation has NONE of that appeal or panache nor does it conjure any of those qualities except possibly the rendering and the cost.
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One might suppose the head scarf and sunglasses are supposed to be reminiscent of the late Jackie O but to most who see these images I might be bold enough to say that at least half of the eyes do not recognize that fact. In fact this not what one might consider Valentino light... it looks much more like Valentino for H&M and one might even  suppose that even at that level this wouldn’t t elicit much more than yawn.
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 The media can rave and ooh and aaah about these clothes with all their regurgitated “facts and explanations and inspiration” but the time has come to call this out what this as one big freakin joke. Sadly I wonder who is laughing. A collection like this is cause to mourn what has been lost and what has disappeared from the amazing emotions and reactions that the brand once conjured and garnered. 
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RIP or riposare in pace

Saturday, May 19, 2018

Givenchy resort 2019


Clare Waight Keller delivers her second collection for the legendary and heritage brand of Givenchy…. let the fawning begin and what’s worse is let the yawning begin.
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From the first mage, I had this unimaginable fantasy that Ms. Waight Keller was about to catapult the brand back to its roots…. WRONG! The collection she delivered appears as if she is confused as to what season it is intended for  and suffice to say, the collection is not exactly rife with newness of any kind other than it’s not totally fixated on athleisure or oversized ill-fitting clothes. 
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With all the hoopla that has come with her arrival at the brand one might have thought that she would have been more inspired to bring an elegance and raffiné that has long been absent from this incredible brand. Well that assumption flies out with the windows when the looks range from heavy handed leathers, to who cares banal, to shades of St Laurent to generic in the extreme... not to mention  the been there done that aspect.
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Her signature and recurring themes for the brand are seemingly, at least from this 2 freshmen collections, who cares and so what … just more clothes. One might argue that, yes, most of it is very salable and wearable but the point is in this case you can buy the look almost anywhere from TJ Maxx to any second hand store so what’s the brouhaha about? … Someone smarter than I needs to explain this fashion phenomenon to me.
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If you wish to call ankle front slit pants a signature then tah dah take that to the bank but it’s hardly anything to write home about or new. The question that remains is what will Clare Waight Keller do for this brand to give it the élan that it is so sorely deserves and needs to again establish itself as a leader in the world of fashion and not just because of its name and some bullshit hype.
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So, ask yourself this question … what has she brought to the table besides last night’s leftovers and is she capable of cooking up a gourmet feast?