Friday, January 17, 2020

Berluti fall men’s 2020


Well, that was refreshing! Kris Van Assche has done a masterful job with this   collection even if truly believe that Sartori was really a start at Berluti. Yes, the collection skews younger but I’m sure the prices haven’t done the same which is what really complicates the brand’s impact.
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Some of the clothes are truly fabulous like the full-length herringbone shaded puffer and the black/fuchsia double face top coat. Remember, Berluti started as a shoe brand and in keeping with that Van Assche certainly made use of the brands shaded leather patinas and added some truly great patternings like the “Bambi dot” and the stripings. My issue is that it’s too bad that the leathers were shown in such a matchy matchy way head to toe. 
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Color is surely a welcomed aspect but one really must face facts and ask if the man who can afford this brand will run out to buy a flaming red or hot pink suit or one that borders on chartreuse. I’m not quite sure why Van Assche chose trainers as the go to footwear since I believed that ship had sailed by now.
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Take away all the logic and  just focus on the visual and it’s a glorious celebration of what menswear can look like even when the fashion world has gone mad trying to justify and normalize the likes of Gucci et al! The collection is polished precise, a little superfly but a lot of simply wearable pieces whether bought as complete turnouts or as pieces.
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Last thing, its too bad the casting wasn’t a tad older looking and not so barely past 20 years old since as said Berluti doesn’t come cheap! One last thought is that it occurs to me that the collection does remind me of Paul Smith when he does color on steroids!

Yohji Yamamoto men’s fall 2020


Unquestionably the brand is an acquired taste that has developed nothing short of a cult following. This season one must take into account so much in terms of this presentation other just the clothes such as, in particular, the casting. 
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Mr. Yamamoto is a tailor. Obviously, but his clothes create more than just wearing apparel… they are in their own way … works of art. Consider the layering, both the simplicity and complexity of their design, the volumes and most of all the type of customer he attracts. He is not chasing a trend nor is he begging for a new audience every season ... he is true to himself and most of all he is loyal to his clientele. One might say, why fix what’s not broken.
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The coats and jackets are stand alone in the oceans of mediocre and trend-driven piles we have seen and then he takes it a step further by casting men who look like men, each one with certain aura rather than a parade of robotic prepubescent United Nations of anorexic  boys in daddy’s clothes, the styling is so Yohji-san ... from the hats to the scarves to the chains. One must dissect and examine what is put before them to fully grasp the allure of this collection.
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I tip my hat to his consistency and to his own brand of brilliance over these decades when so many of so-called more popular brands have come and gone. He is his brand!
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Thursday, January 16, 2020

Paris men’s fall 2020


Pauvre Paris! Pourquoi Paris? 
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This is what it’s come to ... shock and awe from the absurd to the ridiculous and be damned with clothes fit for a man. Paris is now the center for fashion victims o of the world unite. 
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If you don’t have a style then borrow one like at Valentino who seemed to have liked Sarah Burton’s work a lot and as for Von Beirendonck, well would you expect less though the mutli bright puffers were spectacular. 
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Then there are the kabuki/samurai outerwear pieces and the joke that is Givenchy and JW Anderson and lest us forget Rick Owens who has given us ‘Bull Bulge” as oppose to camel toe and yes, we get the idea he can certainly tailor a jacket but for who? How can I overlook Raf who still hasn't found an original idea other than a muff with words on it and a semi-straight jacket vest to restrict all arm movement!
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Sadly, one cannot unsee what has been seen but gleefully most of it is wonderfully as forgettable as final year projects for first year design students.
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Bon Chance Paris… let the pundits create their fairy tales about the emperor’s new clothes which seem to be proliferating the catwalks this season in our beloved Paris which look more like London!
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The images tell the story….  Have a look see ….  Regarde ici!