Saturday, September 22, 2018

VERSACE SPRING 2019


Many years ago, right after Gianni died, in an interview, Donatella declared “I am not a designer.”  And as Estelle Parsons once screeched in Bonnie and Clyde “MY EYES! MY EYES!” 
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In what can only be described as head scratching, eye rubbing and kaleidoscopic, Donatellamamamia has just about eviscerated any trace of her late brother. The collection looks as if the concept was an assigment for Project Runway where a cutting room floor was knee deep in scraps of printed material and the objective was create a collection from these scraps ad just make it seam splitting tight.

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This blinding display of prints (makes the archive of Emanuel Ungaro look like Talbots), the orgy of color and the over wrought and over design of these pieces is mind boggling and yet all it adds up to is clothes for the sake of clothes. 
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Slapping a logo on a  tee shirt  or on the vamp of a shoe doesn’t make this any better, the clothes look ill fitted, even the supposed little black sexy dresses are scary in everything they DON’T do while the leathers look clumsy and worse … cheap. The only sexy aspect of these clothes is that they are in many instances abundantly and unattractively tight as in streetwalker tight.
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Hard to believe that she couldn’t ride out on the coattails of the amazing retrospective show she presented not long ago and hold onto that glory. Instead she has apparently decided SHE IS A DESIGNER! … that would be a no!
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Thursday, September 20, 2018

PRADA SPRING 2019


Miuccia the “meese” always lives up to her own words which were in effect ... my job is not to make women look pretty ,,, well… mission accomplished one more time.
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 So  back to collection …  the question is can you move beyond the laughable and almost predictably heinous styling?  One can see there is almost this  fetishistic/baby doll undercurrent … you know the kind you see on Special Victims Unit which now when I think of it also takes on new meaning for fashion victims as well as sex crime victimology.
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 These sort of little girlish jumpers and yet see thru with the flat shoes and the freakin U necks with that support strap holding the two sides together. Oh in quest for being different and so called in inventive and purposely unattractive.
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The clothes to be point blank are nothing special if not truly on the verge of being eye sores or more succinctly fugly. 
They sort of look like Home Ec projects from high school BUT I am positive there is a diatribe of blah blah blah to supposedly justify this pile. She absolutely did not even try in the slightest to make the clothes more attractive …. If anything she compounds the fact that they are unappealing in the extreme unless of course one is a label whore, influencer, fashion victim or bought and paid for fashion media reviewer.
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Stiff, gimmicky, boxy or bland it all adds up to why bother... The bags are so what, the shoes are who cares but there is always scent and eyewear and whatever else they hang their name on other than clothes to make money. And don’t forget she is a visionary………as if!!!!!

Max Mara spring 2019


If you take away some of the patent leather, the suede leg warmers and some of the overworked twisting and ruching in some pieces you would have a collection of modern clothes for woman to WEAR! What came to mind here is that firstly the  collection looks a bit too fallish and second of all this is that this is what Burberry might have looked like if Tisci wasn’t so prissy, safe or over the top.
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 The reptilian ruffles are a bit tired by now as are the hem treatments but within the collection there are some totally soigné elegant pieces that should have the Max Mara clientele swooning…. and oh yeah the ruffle belt thing … tired and over with!!
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 I don’t care much for that below the knee length as I find it unflattering on models no less on real people; overall there is a lot worse out there than this and  if anything this brand remains a true fashion brand without leaping over the line toward what they think is trendy fashion or trying to follow the flock.
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 PS….  On final perusal there might have been few less one shoulder looks since that has never been a strong seller to women of any age!

Monday, September 17, 2018

BURBERRY SPRING 2019


Riccardo Tisci has entered the building. Every fawner, Instagrammer, bought and paid for fashion reviewer, influencer, label whore and fashion victim can finally rest easy and the remainder of us can yawn.
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 I can’t exactly say this was a bells and whistles premiere of his newly envisioned Burberry simply because it barely elicited little more than a barely audible ooh or moan and maybe a sigh. The most beautiful pieces were the simplest; the most ghastly pieces were when he went off the reservation. Being fair about the whole thing, I could say that this is a wait and see situation since there is nothing to base it on other than Christopher Bailey’s work which at times was amazing and at other times simply cringe worthy.
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 As a courtesy I will mention the men’s which was a so what, big  deal, who cares and some of the women’s certainly rivaled Baileys most cringe worthy creations. Lots of excess, useless or unflattering details like a drape under the waistline and of course those sleeves that extend to ginger tips. The palette was simple and tasteful, the use of the plaid was scant and the big deal about changing the logo was a blink and you might have missed it.
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 So now, after all this anticipation, all the wonder and all the hypothesizing of what the new Burberry will look like is still very much a mystery. As it is now, there’s really not much to write home about and even less to make one sit up and take notice but most of it wearable.
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