Friday, May 30, 2014

Burberry Prorsum Resort 2015

Well now that Mr. Bailey is CEO and designer of record, we are off and running into a new era for the juggernaut of a brand. Resort 2015 holds few surprises as after all, how many incarnations of a trench coat can you possibly present?

To wit, the coast takes the center stage here and in some instances they are mighty good and on some...well no so much and then there are some sad dresses and some so so separates. The trench even extrapolated into the safarienne which would have suffered less if the bottom gussets had been removed from the pockets. My eyes are offended by sagging pockets and there are plenty of then here. 

The graphic alphabet coat pieces are appealing especially in coat form but what is very interesting is the selection of below the knee novelty skirts which will attract the most editorial news even if they are for the most part … let’s say inspired or maybe a better word would be borrowed.. from designers of the past and some lesser known gods. I refer to the fish scale skirts of huge pailettes once popularized by CD Greene and the raffia fringed skirt we have seen countless times on Paris runways and even the “rag” skit which has been seen as far back as Balenciaga.. but then again... why would anyone point that out??

After reading one review why would you refer to ombre or degrade pieces as just that when you can invent some name like dip dyed; nevertheless this is also a technique that’s been around since hippie days but everyone that is so called old must be renamed to insinuate that it is the first time it has ever been seen!

Again, what piqued my interest here was the so called “dip dyed” lace trench which I thought was rather fetching and pretty sure will the copied down many times hereafter. The collection should reveal itself to be quite commercial if you can afford it and there are lots of pieces that fashionphiles will love and add to their never ending wardrobes. Cal t a collection of dissection if you will as there are lots of pieces  that can freshen your existing sartorial statement and still conjure this overall dishabille attitude that has put forth.

Tuesday, May 20, 2014

Meet Philip Treacy.. legend of fashion .. modern master

There are so few designers ... of anything... who reach career highs within their lifetime and remain there. We are not talking about the “pets” or the media darlings who have PR machines and corporate money behind them, I speak of independent super talents who achieved this designation or plateau with their god given talents … my focus is Philip Treacy.  Today it is all about celebrating a creative wunderkind who knows no bounds and who is instantly synonymous with his m├ętier. As far as I can see, this is a man of epic talent and endless imagination who creates for runways, royalty and never ever the run of the mill!! While he may be a bit brief in his replies to my questions he is wildly prolific in his output! What needs to be considered he is one question and one reply…. “What is your bliss?” and the reply is inventing hats!! Please take note of the choice of words here as they are so very telling of the man!! … Inventing!!!! Bravo !

-What is the most treasured possession in your wardrobe?
My Alexander McQueen suits, he gave me.
-What is your most sterling trait and what trait do you treasure most in your friendships?  
-What is your bliss?
Inventing hats
-What is your guilty secret?
I think about new hats all day long
-Where is your ideal home?
London, it’s a fantasy.
-What do you wear to bed?
Not much
-What’s your advice to the “newcomer?”

-Who or what is your inspiration/style icon?
Isabella Blow
-What is the best advice you ever received?
Make hats.
-In 3 words or less, describe the current state of fashion.
Trendless, open, marketing
14-If you were a retailer; would you wear your own designs or shop in your own store?
Or where would you shop?
-If you won a $200,000,000 power ball (lottery), what is the first thing you would buy or do?
Plants. I love gardening
-If you could invite up to 4 people for dinner, who would they be…dead or alive?
Marilyn Monroe and Michael Jackson
-What is your favorite movie /or movie star?
Legend / Tom Cruise
-Whose opinion do you value most and why?
 The people I work with, I trust them
-What’s your take on magazines, books versus the internet?
It’s all legible
-Do you have a dream collaborator?
Marlene Dietrich
-What is your crowning achievement thus far in your career?
Surviving as a hat designer in the 21st century

-What’s your music library like?
-What and where is your favorite meal?
Anything my partner Stefan cooks

Saturday, May 17, 2014

Louis Vuitton Resort 2015 Monaco

Quel domage!

Kool Aid is now being served in the main room. The flavor of the day is delusion specifically concocted by Nicky Ghesquiere who promises that once consumed you too will believe that you have touched the hand of God!

Well, it is very safe to say that Monsieur Ghesquiere has not clue how to design a dress and has not a clue about what looks good on women. With all the hoopla of being shown in Monaco and the serpentine runway with the floor simulating rippling water, one can only assess this as sex without a happy ending and I mean bad sex … boring, tedious, going nowhere, when will it end sex!

The big messages here were the torn edge used on any hem he could and the ruffle hem; yes I know try to control your enthusiasm here. The preponderance of high waisted stitched center creased pants was more than evident but on the bright side the tailored pieces were a lot better than some of the ugliest and I mean fugly dresses that I have ever seen paraded down any runway. The best looking pieces were the non-gimmicky pieces but the problem is that they were totally generic.

Then we need to discuss the prints; the choice of prints, the more than odd marriages of prints together, and the why would you choose these aspects… holy mother of God!  Mr. Ghesquiere may be a techno spin wiz but on a purely visual level he has surely mastered the art of ugly with some of the most absurd looking dresses which apparently were designed in a home economics class as discussed in a book about “the dress doctors.” (Google it)  With all that is apparently available to the brand, the contents of the presentation was wildly amateurish and ill conceived. Apparently he is fixated on the 60s/70s and also with Miuccia Prada... more poor choices as demonstrated by some way ugly shoes and yawn worthy handbags.

In the end it suddenly hit me... the collection was awfully Marc Jacobs... but a poor imitation.

Friday, May 16, 2014

Oscar de la Renta.. resort 2015 ..New York Collections

Apparently Oscar scoffed at the premise of his clients buying clothes strictly for travel as they had decades ago. In keeping with this concept Mr. de la Renta offered a Resort collection for 2015 that is just chock a block with lady clothes that are about as cosmopolitan and stylish as any of the pure breds who flock to his clothes.

The collection is graphic, modern, spare without ever being boring above all it speaks to the broad range of clients that Oscar has developed over the years. Oddly, what he did was apply the decades old dictate of offering spectator looks, black and white here, but he translates them in the most contemporary of ways. These are not the clothes of ladies who lunch nor are they the wardrobe of wannabe socials; these are clothes that are for wearing by women if every age and not for strictly for show at Le Cirque or Lyford Cay.

The multi-color prints are a bit touch and go IMHO but the more restrained and graphic black and white prints win hands down. The “Oscarizaton” of the collection comes in Mr. de la Renta’s exquisite evening clothes complete with his now signature embroideries which we have now seen repeatedly in past seasons. BTW, this hardly means repetitive as the brilliantly pure colors that are utilized more than compensate for a little been there done that! These eyes were even distracted enough by the clothes to barely notice the below the knee hemlines which I usually take such great offense to in almost every collection of any designer proving that OdlR is up to task of delivering stellar collections no matter the season.

An Oscar review would not be complete with special mention given to the standout evening segment which in simplest words might be OSCAR ON STEROIDS! It’s all him and he even introduces his “cage” skirts which we have seen across the pond but never at the hands of this American master. So the bottom line is this… Give me one Oscar against any 10 Wangs, Nicks, Rafs or the like.. They talk about it and Oscar delivers it...