Andrew Gn .. Resort 2015

Well, well, I guess if you wait long enough you get to see it all and such was the case for the resort collection of Andrew Gn. What I was waiting for was a collection that was long of color, long on looks that look “couture-ish,”  and OH MY... reality sets in... It is well merchandised and designed to sell! The only collection that comes to mind as a just comparison is Giambattista Valli who seems to share a mindset as well as an esthetic.

Well,  As anyone who follows Mr. Gn, you come to expect his trademarks which are extremely well conceived and rendered clothes, exquisite delicate details, shape, the polish and soigne usually associated with the haute couture. This season is no different. He gives us a riot of color possibilities, beautiful clean edges, a variety of shapes and he has invited us all to his garden party! And in the tradition of resorts gone by . .. he offers a healthy dose of spectator looks done a la Gn!

There are a variety of shapes which suggest a variety of clients but make no mistake that for the most part. A waistline is essential. While most of collection is silhouette conscious, one must be keenly aware that he has included shapes that are quite figure friendly as well. Some of the shapes are familiar and some are just astoundingly beautiful in their simplicity. One silhouette which looks fresh is that Enfanta shape that shows up a few times in both long and short.

What is quite different about this collection is that Mr. Gn has deftly played colors against each other, employs a large print palette and shows a great array of options for any particular look. He has certainly played out asymmetry with a deft hand and in many possibilities. There is an apple green suede draped jacket that is just heaven and the floral appliques are what one would imagine if they had just floated onto the garments. In essence, what I am trying to say is that Gn has an incredibly light touch no matter the style.

I cannot imagine what this man would be capable of if given the tools to create Haute Couture but in the meantime, this is head and shoulders above the ocean of sameness that continues within fashion.

Alexander McQueen resort 2015

The question of the day is simple “Do you speak McQueen?”

With that question one can answer with a simple yes or no and having said yes you can go on to decipher the clarity and fluency with which Sarah Burton speaks using the vocabulary of Alexander McQueen. Please note that she has expanding this vocabulary in the most seamless f ways as she have never lost sight of whose name is on that label.

Okay, now that’s out of the way let’s get down to it and that Resort 2015. There are segments that are reminiscent of times gone by (F/W 2009) such as the graphic hounds tooth/plaid pattern and the latest incarnation as in the floral all over patterning that is meticulously and painstakingly rendered to look as if printed from a distance. As for the leathers, I always have hard time with them even if they are laser sharp in silhouette and laser cut. They always seem so 2 dimensional to my eye. Then there are the graphic furs which unfortunately remind me way too much of Prada. I hope against hope that this reference is totally by accident rather than intentional.

Overall, give all the parameters that are considered in designing a collection like this, Alexander McQueen is very client friendly and again... OMG ... that word … commercial! Or even worse … salable! That being said, Ms. Burton deftly combines both wear it now and true early spring with a lovely DNA friendly collection. Please take note that in comparison to past seasons, this season is rather spare with minimal if any accessories and even the usually outrageous shoes have been toned down substantially.

Okay so for those us who can remember this reference... I’ll give it a 90... easy to looks at, not too difficult to wear, some great dresses and details that even Mr. McQueen might be proud of!

Emilio Pucci ... Resort 2015

Listen up!! Calling all designers who have taken up the helm of eponymous design houses/brands and have no idea about their heritage or what to do with it! Let this be an object lesson in how to mine an archive! In particular, Wang, Raf, Ricky Ticky, Fausto, Marios, Hedi and Frida… to name a few!

With that being said, Peter Dundas has managed to successfully extrapolate what was and offer what it might have been if the eponymous designer was still around today and that my friends is something that is severely lacking today. Please understand that this is not some diluted rehashed vision of the past glories of Emilio Pucci but a 21^st century collection that is steeped in the tradition and DNA of the brand.

KUDOS to you Peter Dundas!!

Once again, there is no set of directions or explanations needed to see what has been presented … unless of course you have no fashion history or knowledge or possess a résumé of 2 years in length which make you perfect to write vapid reviews that regurgitate press releases instead of real reportage. 

Mr. Dundas deftly combines the print heritage of the house as well as its swinging roots in the 60’s and sort of mixes that up with a dash of Cardin and Carnaby Street  and yields a wonderful resort collection that speaks to the Emilio Pucci client of today while creating a wonderful reminder of what once was.

It’s prints and minis and double faces, it is soft and hard, structured and easy and so you take your pick of what you like. The palette is simply pastels with navy and black and of course white. There is very little to pick apart here and much to praise when this collection is held up for comparison in the sea of sameness. Dundas has successfully remained faithful to his vision for the brand as well as having the appropriate respect for the genesis of the brand when it was helmed by Emilio Pucci.

Maybe Peter Dundas can serve as a PhD in fashion and offer a course in “managing and mining” the archives of an eponymous fashion house!

Dsquared².. resort 2015

From first glance it is not rocket science to see that the twins have plucked one of fashion’s most reliable and legendary icons as their muse and reference point for this collection. I speak of Diana Vreeland, the first lady of fashion.

What is so disturbing about the Catens is that they can’t seem to figure out who they are. They have these extreme mood swings which span from a teeny bopper Hollywood street walker to doyennes of fashion. What I find so amazing is that as much as they want to be showmen, hip and  groovy, they  are just provocateurs with all their over the top bells and whistles but their shining moments occur when they do beautiful feminine,  and dare I say it, chic stylish clothes.

Funny how life works, you spend all these seasons promoting this 3 rings circus of a collection and the most beautiful collection is the one that references a lady who was anything but trendy and always stylishly chic. It is almost as if Dsquared² and Vreeland in the same sentence created an oxymoron.

There is no doubt that the Vreeland style and swagger is pervasive but there is also this YSL attitude coupled with something very decadently Helmut Newton about it all. The big question is whether or not this portends the future or is this one more of their one hit wonders? The collection is very old school and yet it retains a modernity to it and I think that the Catens should wear that as a medal. There is always a polish and soigne moment that shows up occasionally in their collections but rarely is it so all-encompassing and it is very flattering to the clothes and the designers. 

Impressed? … Yes. Surprised? … Yes. Hopeful? … Yes.  My gut tells me this is but a fleeting fashion moment that should be repeated but won’t be as the twins are far too restless and accustomed to thinking they ride the crest of the fashion wave and producing a collection that that might actually sell and be worn is beyond their scope of reality. Tis a pity!