Tuesday, June 24, 2014

Emilio Pucci ... Resort 2015

Listen up!! Calling all designers who have taken up the helm of eponymous design houses/brands and have no idea about their heritage or what to do with it! Let this be an object lesson in how to mine an archive! In particular, Wang, Raf, Ricky Ticky, Fausto, Marios, Hedi and Frida… to name a few!

With that being said, Peter Dundas has managed to successfully extrapolate what was and offer what it might have been if the eponymous designer was still around today and that my friends is something that is severely lacking today. Please understand that this is not some diluted rehashed vision of the past glories of Emilio Pucci but a 21st century collection that is steeped in the tradition and DNA of the brand.

KUDOS to you Peter Dundas!!

Once again, there is no set of directions or explanations needed to see what has been presented … unless of course you have no fashion history or knowledge or possess a résumé of 2 years in length which make you perfect to write vapid reviews that regurgitate press releases instead of real reportage. 

Mr. Dundas deftly combines the print heritage of the house as well as its swinging roots in the 60’s and sort of mixes that up with a dash of Cardin and Carnaby Street  and yields a wonderful resort collection that speaks to the Emilio Pucci client of today while creating a wonderful reminder of what once was.
It’s prints and minis and double faces, it is soft and hard, structured and easy and so you take your pick of what you like. The palette is simply pastels with navy and black and of course white. There is very little to pick apart here and much to praise when this collection is held up for comparison in the sea of sameness. Dundas has successfully remained faithful to his vision for the brand as well as having the appropriate respect for the genesis of the brand when it was helmed by Emilio Pucci.

Maybe Peter Dundas can serve as a PhD in fashion and offer a course in “managing and mining” the archives of an eponymous fashion house!

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