Tuesday, June 17, 2014

Ralph Rucci .. resort 2015

 And we are back!!! It is evolution vs. revolution time at the house of Rucci.

Having the designer as your collection guide certainly does seem to give  the viewer a different slant on things especially when it comes to seeing what is right in front of you but were unable to see on your own.

If you know anything about Ralph Rucci, you know there are certain characteristics that cannot be avoided or overlooked. Rucci speaks in his own vocabulary and but has slowly been massaging the brand’s DNA over the past few seasons. While being a great fan of his, I have never deluded myself into believing that these clothes are for everyone BUT in a rare moment of clarity, I can say there are actually pieces for Resort than possess a far more universal appeal on many levels most of all being an ease of wearing. Unlike most reviewers or critics of fashion, I seem to think in terms of retailing which means thinking about whether or not these clothes will sell. My bad?? I know reality can suck!

As I mentioned, Rucci has been massaging the DNA but never losing sight of the ball and that means all the amazing finishing and fabrications are there, but they appear to be somewhat eased. Maybe eased is not the right word but softened implies the razor sharp lines are gone but that’s not the case. Maybe what needs to said is that there is a softness and lightness felt by seeing these clothes that one never experienced before. Many of the Ralph Rucci signatures are right there but they somehow feel different this season.

Astounding standout pieces include a couple of white pieces including an anorak, a couple of leather pieces including a  cropped cowl backed jacket, several black waffle bonded jackets and dresses, the addition of fabulous navy blue, exquisite lighter than air gazars, lames and organzas, the asymmetry and just suddenly this infusion of color and shine than freshens everything. Then there is this ... actual real live bread and butter pieces... yes easy to wear styles that do not require a size 6 body.

It is unfortunate that the look book is not as inclusive as it should be nor are the clothes photographed to show off their incredible details and fabrications so you will just have to take my word for it. This is a little slice of heaven that stands out again from the ocean of sameness that pervades our industry.

PS...Next time Ralph, those new knits with the tulle insets… ixnay... They don’t live up to the reputation of  the brand … not bad for a first try but not worthy of inclusion.

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