Dsquared².. resort 2015

From first glance it is not rocket science to see that the twins have plucked one of fashion’s most reliable and legendary icons as their muse and reference point for this collection. I speak of Diana Vreeland, the first lady of fashion.

What is so disturbing about the Catens is that they can’t seem to figure out who they are. They have these extreme mood swings which span from a teeny bopper Hollywood street walker to doyennes of fashion. What I find so amazing is that as much as they want to be showmen, hip and  groovy, they  are just provocateurs with all their over the top bells and whistles but their shining moments occur when they do beautiful feminine,  and dare I say it, chic stylish clothes.

Funny how life works, you spend all these seasons promoting this 3 rings circus of a collection and the most beautiful collection is the one that references a lady who was anything but trendy and always stylishly chic. It is almost as if Dsquared² and Vreeland in the same sentence created an oxymoron.

There is no doubt that the Vreeland style and swagger is pervasive but there is also this YSL attitude coupled with something very decadently Helmut Newton about it all. The big question is whether or not this portends the future or is this one more of their one hit wonders? The collection is very old school and yet it retains a modernity to it and I think that the Catens should wear that as a medal. There is always a polish and soigne moment that shows up occasionally in their collections but rarely is it so all-encompassing and it is very flattering to the clothes and the designers. 

Impressed? … Yes. Surprised? … Yes. Hopeful? … Yes.  My gut tells me this is but a fleeting fashion moment that should be repeated but won’t be as the twins are far too restless and accustomed to thinking they ride the crest of the fashion wave and producing a collection that that might actually sell and be worn is beyond their scope of reality. Tis a pity!