Sunday, June 22, 2014

Salvatore Ferragamo by Massimiliano Giornetti spring 2015 men's

My immediate reaction here is that when Massimiliano Giornetti travels the grown up route, it is then that he excels at his game. This collection is all about rich, chic and easy sportswear complimented by beautifully tailored jackets and some simple but stylishly designed outerwear pieces.

While there can hardly be any reason to complain about the silhouettes or design of the collection, what is somewhat bothersome is the somber retro palette that he chose for a good part of it. In my mind it was very 50’s including the textures and patternings. To my eye, it came much more alive when seen in beiges and pale grey and not so much with that rosewood tone ... you know that pinky brown color that looks good on about 5 people and the warm blues.

The timbre of the collection also evoked a somewhat 40’s vibe with that looser and not boxy overall shape which is very appealing. Somehow I kept seeing a young Gary cooper wearing a lot of these clothes as they have a certain drape to them without ever getting sloppy. Please do not get me wrong, these clothes far from look dated or like thrift store rehashes, they were a most welcome respite in this sea of sameness dominated by the likes of Raf and Jil and Tisci.

Since I can’t help myself, I am always alert to the casting and styling and much to Giornetti’s credit he trod that fine line between young man and nubile teenager with great skill and much to the benefit of the collection itself. For me, there is little worse than seeing some post pubescent boy on a runway looking like he is wearing daddy’s clothes and in need of a cheeseburger.

Let’s now speak of the economy of accessories and the very omnipresent kiltie shoe and sandal. The sandal will no doubt be a welcome sell out in a sea of Birkenstocks and sneakers. Moving right along is that there were only a few bags, rare pair of sunglasses and some belted jackets and that about sums up all the extras for spring 2015.

So ... Like it? … YES ...  like it a lot? .. YES  ... love it ... not quite!

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