Milan men's Fall 2016 Salvatore Ferragamo

One more time, this is a collection that needs no explanation as it stands by itself as a testament to designers who design and do so in the most fluid way. The collection by Massimiliano Giornetti for Salvatore Ferragamo reminds me that this man knows his way around tailoring as it reminds me of a collection he once did with inspiration from the French Riviera/Saint Tropez.

 

click image to enlarge

Tailoring is the star attraction as well as is his affection for all types of fabrications and patterns certainly demonstrated in shirts and sweaters. There is a somewhat 70s vibe with the conversational prints and the classic hound’s-tooth and glen plaid that are done up to maximum affect without a touch of a dated feeling. Giornetti has always been partial to outerwear and this season is no different, from reefers to parkas to bombers and motorcycle jackets, they all make an appearance in an assortment of colors and fabrications. This collection offers up a new facet of the designer and that is his sense of humor.

click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

If one had to find some fault with the collection it would have been the high water pant lengths and the almost exclusively slim silhouette that pervaded the collection. While on the deficit side, we could speak to the “young” casting which surely was not the wisest for the collection as some more mature looking men would have greatly benefitted the visual presentation.

click image to enlarge

Salvatore Ferragamo fall 2015 MFW.

 So let’s begin with the positives about Fall 2015. In a rare moment of reality during this season, Massimiliano Giornetti turned his focus towards day clothes. You would have to agree that in a season fraught with dressy clothes and red carpet gowns, few have thought to offer clothes that women might wear in their everyday lives or while traveling. Granted, these are not soccer mom, pick up the kids and car pool clothes BUT they are clothes that cosmopolitan women would wear while out for a day of shopping, lunch with the girls or a day of meetings at the office.

There were a ton of knit possibilities including what appeared to be a wool lace, lots of ponchos, throws, dresses and a take on a tennis which was particularly fabulous and should have been further exploited.  A recurring theme was what I dubbed “kaleidoscopic color blocking” (sort of a cross between Albers and Marimekko) which was used with great élan and skill whether in outerwear, wools, furs or silk. This sort of patchwork or blocking seems to be epidemic in this season’s collections but not always utilized it the most successful ways as we have already seen. Giornetti accomplished this trend easily and appealingly while others struggled rather awkwardly. While on the subject of trend, it should be noted that Giornetti’s use of fur was far more palatable and chic than what has been seen as he chose to use it gracefully instead of  some slab of fur slapped onto a coat or jacket. 

One last trend which appeared here and everywhere  was that of this odd fascination with box pleats that has permeated the runways. As I have previously stated, this is an enigma to me BUT Giornetti’s deft hand showed it off the best by using the art and craft of the brand when he employed those mock pleats in butter soft leathers.

While on the subject of assets … We should discuss the tailoring aspect which was in full view and again much to the brand’s credit. Great jackets dresses and coats which were subtle yet fashionable and stylish…. In other words not too bland and not overworked ... dirty word alert ... salable. Great handbags and belts were in evidence but I am on the fence about the shoes. Giornetti is ever of the fabric adventurers and within this collection he struck upon one more innovation to notch onto  his belt and that is the mock ribbing which he accomplished with narrow leather strips … actually very amazing!

In the end this was not a tour de force collection but it was a collection that is aimed at the Ferragamo client and is meant to worn and not just admired or stored away for a special occasion. In other words, this is a collection that is meant to ring registers and build the bottom line. Certainly not a bad thing despite what will be said…

Salvatore Ferragamo designed by Massimiliano Giornetti fall 2015 men's

Massimiliano Giornetti once again shows us that he is indeed a master of the art of fashion. He is a designer who designs. He knows how to tweak the classics. He offers clothes for men who are men and wish to be chic, fashionable and timeless without all the bells and whistles that so many seem to think are necessary.

Salvatore Ferragamo for fall 2015 is all about lush exquisite clothes where accessories, layering and outerwear play leading roles. The scarves are not merely scarves or excuses for scarves, they are lush luxurious and covetable, they are meant to wrap, envelop and keep you warm as well as make a statement. some even have the most fabulous fringe, amazing patterning or toggle closures. The outerwear spans from the classic trenches to a toggle pull over to the rarely seen mouton jackets. Yes of course this would be Ferragamo if there weren’t spectacular shearlings and leather jackets.

Giornetti may have created a new fashion camouflage with his densely printed flora as well as giving new meaning to “duck dynasty” or it geese? Whatever, the flourishes are tastefully rendered and never interfere or detract from the clothes themselves. There was also an amazing double faced coat that appeared to have knitted shell with a woven inner facing that won me over big time not to mention the engorged buffalo checks. Giornetti’s fascination with fabric and textures is so clearly evidenced in this collection. It is refreshing if not rare these days for a young designer to have such a firm grasp on who his client really is and not only who he wants it to be. This is not to say that he only caters to his present “fan base”.... there will be new followers as not everyone wants tights, dropped crotch pants  and clothes designed  for Peewee Herman!

Bottom line... classic not boring fashionable without being trendy and true investment clothes for men of all ages... and if we graded like they did on American Bandstand  I would give it a 9out of 10 ! ..Easy to wear... Easy to understand... no explanation needed and highly appealing!

Salvatore Ferragamo.by Massimiliano Giornetti . MFW ..spring 2015

Massimiliano Giornetti took a turn for Spring 2015 and he was heading for reached a clean and simplified take for Ferragamo. There was very little high drama and certainly bot a lot of the high fashion tricks that he has employed in past seasons. What was left is a beautifully wearable and inviting collection.

Mr. Giornetti made excellent use of his artisans with the fringed pieces and gave a new life to the usually staid and classic scarf prints of times gone by. The palette was soft and not washed out and the yellow looked quite fresh. It was amusing to actually see a real Spring Coat which is something of times gone by but these eyes were a bit thrown by an oversized belted and bell sleeved top/jacket that appeared several times. Please note that there were plenty of dresses for his ladies and all quite easy to wear without being dowdy or overly bland. The best way to express this is that the collection was well edited, tight, commercial and wearable. Havens all those dirty words all in a row!! My issue is with that below the knee length which disturbs my sense of proportion even though it is a fact that the length is very popular among clients.

As seems to be an unspoken rule this season in Milan, the clothes are minimally accessorized despite this brand’s huge dependence on shoe and bags. That being said, the shoes actually looked comfortable and covetable for women and they offered a stature that might be required to wear some of the dresses. 

This brings me to the point that the collection was very dress-centric which in my eyes is a good thing on many levels but surely could have been better if there some more sleeves and less cut  away halter necklines. What was interesting is that when it came to evening, the dresses looked much more relaxed and causal rather than red carpet ready and again my eyes, this is a smart move.

So here  is the skinny; no this was not  as fabulous as Mr. Giornetti’s Riviera collection of years gone by and one of my most favorite but there is little to find fault with here as the simplicity  is welcome and the clothes are far afield from boring. Grande lavoro Massimiliano!