So let’s begin with
the positives about Fall 2015. In a rare moment of reality during this season,
Massimiliano Giornetti turned his focus towards day clothes. You would have to
agree that in a season fraught with dressy clothes and red carpet gowns, few
have thought to offer clothes that women might wear in their everyday lives or
while traveling. Granted, these are not soccer mom, pick up the kids and car
pool clothes BUT they are clothes that cosmopolitan women would wear while out
for a day of shopping, lunch with the girls or a day of meetings at the office.
There were a ton of knit possibilities including what
appeared to be a wool lace, lots of ponchos, throws, dresses and a take on a
tennis which was particularly fabulous and should have been further exploited. A recurring theme was what I dubbed “kaleidoscopic
color blocking” (sort of a cross between Albers and Marimekko) which was used
with great élan and skill whether in outerwear, wools, furs or silk. This sort
of patchwork or blocking seems to be epidemic in this season’s collections but
not always utilized it the most successful ways as we have already seen.
Giornetti accomplished this trend easily and appealingly while others struggled
rather awkwardly. While on the subject of trend, it should be noted that Giornetti’s
use of fur was far more palatable and chic than what has been seen as he chose
to use it gracefully instead of some
slab of fur slapped onto a coat or jacket.
One last trend which appeared here
and everywhere was that of this odd fascination
with box pleats that has permeated the runways. As I have previously stated,
this is an enigma to me BUT Giornetti’s deft hand showed it off the best by using
the art and craft of the brand when he employed those mock pleats in butter
soft leathers.
While on the subject of assets … We should discuss the
tailoring aspect which was in full view and again much to the brand’s credit.
Great jackets dresses and coats which were subtle yet fashionable and stylish….
In other words not too bland and not overworked ... dirty word alert ...
salable. Great handbags and belts were in evidence but I am on the fence about
the shoes. Giornetti is ever of the fabric adventurers and within this
collection he struck upon one more innovation to notch onto his belt and that is the mock ribbing which he
accomplished with narrow leather strips … actually very amazing!
In the end this was not a tour de force collection but it
was a collection that is aimed at the Ferragamo client and is meant to worn and
not just admired or stored away for a special occasion. In other words, this is
a collection that is meant to ring registers and build the bottom line.
Certainly not a bad thing despite what will be said…
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