And I quote... Madeleine
Vionnet was called the "Queen of the bias cut" and "the
architect among dressmakers", Vionnet is best known today for her elegant Grecian-style
dresses and for popularizing the bias cut within the fashion world and is
credited with inspiring a number of recent designers.
Let me say this about
that! The great legacy that is Madeleine Vionnet is not what I call honored in
the present day collections from this fabled and legendary brand. Let’s say
that Madame/Мисс. Goga has built a house on hubris rather than DNA or vocabulary. One must
postulate that the name Goga
Ashkenazi doesn’t exactly inspire awe, reverence or any attention at all and
well… with good reason, even with a team of 5.
In a collection
that bears little to no relation to the once legendary house, Fall 2015 is a collection
that apparently is designed by committee and worse than that looks it! From
S&M like harnesses to furry slippers and slides... again... to gladiator like
knee highs still to ill fitting leather pants and silly bulbous out of place
sweaters ... well, this collection has it all!! The question is why. Oh yeah
and the ridiculous wheelies ... why?
What needs to be
done here is that someone needs to make this collection fit together, if that’s
possible, and unite all the disparate elements that are being presented. Right
now it looks like everybody got 5 or 6 looks to design and their job was done. Nothing
coalesces, nothing or very little has any elegance or polish and what it all
proves is money cannot make you a
designer or give you the knowledge necessary to present a meaningful
collection. Some well-placed magazine ads may provide an aura surrounding the
brand but it surely provides no substance here.
And by the way ...
ditch the “Adrian” hood as it is just ludicrous at this point and gives the
clothes a retro moment that is hardly anything other than dramatic. In fact, is
that’s the take away, then “Houston… we have a problem!” why bother with the pretense
of a name if what you really design is Goga … a collection that money can buy!
Go back and re-read
the intro … as right now we have Project Runway ... the Goga Edition
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