Stéphane Rolland Haute Couture fall 2015-6

If there is such a thing as a fashion cult, Stéphane Rolland would be its leader or grand wazir. He is one of those designers who expands and explores the avenues of fashion.  His exploration of the art and craft of fashion staggers the imagination as well as shows us that there are designers who still design. He is a rarity that is constantly searching to stretch and further his brand’s DNA. These are not clothes that require blah blah blah but they are clothes that demand notice, examination and provoke conversation.

One of the concepts or questions that Monsieur Rolland conjures season after is season is whether or not fashion should be considered an art form. If you ask me, there is no doubt that yes,  this is as much about haute couture as it is about self-expression and art …  the combination yields fashion.

Without question, the clothes are theatrical and well . .. demonstrative but they are clothes that suggest that they might be collected as well as worn. There are few who can own that accomplishment... Lacroix and Galliano’s Dior haute couture come to mind as well as the more extreme pieces from Yves St Laurent haute couture.  BTW ... take note these are clothes than make an astounding entrance as well as an unforgettable exit.

When clothes or fashion design reach this level of skill and technique, it is not so much about salability or appeal as there is no doubt that the designer has already recognized that his output is not aimed or meant for  universal appeal. He presents a slice of fashion that is too often accompanied by too many words and not enough result or adherence to those words.

Well …. Are you ready to join this sect of fashion or will you remain a spectator? Are you ready to decide if fashion is art?

FENDI .. 50 years of Karl .. Haute Fourrure

It was a golden anniversary celebrating Karl’s record breaking years of collaboration with the house of Fendi. This was no ordinary Haute Couture show, this was Haute Fourrure and it was the “hautest.” If anyone knows anything of what this brand stands for when it comes to fur, they know that fur is treated as if it were any woven fabric. That said, the fur was knitted, embroidered, pieced, shaped and manipulated in just about anything else you can do to a piece of fabric. The result …                MESMERIZING!

  

From the mundane mink to sable to astrakhan to every imaginable fur and if that wasn’t enough there were enough feathers to fill an aviary or two. The silhouettes and shapes ranged from the most staid of lady coats to egg shaped capes that were nothing short of show stopping to blousons to boas of unending lengths. Let’s just say that if you are going to mount a show like this you better make it count and WHOA Nellie!

Some of the patterning resembled what you might see on the monitor of a life support system but this was hardly a collection that needed any assistance in providing or sustaining life or in this case the heritage of the brand. This was an unbridled display of Fendi’s muscle and prowess which is second to none when it comes to the art and craft of furs and leathers. The possible “analogy” of a life support system with the brand is a very tongue in cheek comparison as the house will be alive for generations to come due in no small part to the contributions of Monsieur Lagerfeld.

There are techniques that boggle the mind and test the limits of imagination which would have made Anna Piaggi swoon due to a case of the vapors. These are furs for aficionados and cognoscenti but most of all these are furs that demand to be noticed. There are not furs that you own to stay warm as they are of the “look at me” variety. The combinations of furs and feathers are beyond ones comprehension of the process it took to “build’ these pieces. PETA be damned!

So, in essence, Fendi Haute Fourrure embraces the precepts and concept of Haute Couture in the same ways as “normal fashion” does. By the way, a show of this caliber surely put some designers to shame as this was an instance when one could experience the ecstasy of fashion rather than the agony!

 

PS ... it should be noted that this show was “styled” to perfection...  no gimmicks no bull ... just beautifully coiffed and made up women on a runway wearing exquisite pieces that were designed specifically for that moment

Alexandre Vauthier Haute Couture fall 2015-6

Alexandre Vauthier is what one might deem the poster boy of 21^st century Haute Couture. He gives  Haute Couture  his  own definition by taking the art and craft of old world couture and applying those techniques and skills to 21^st century designing of Haute Couture.

Vauthier in a short period of time has established himself as a sort of rock n roll go to designer with the skills of an elder craftsman. He is ever the tailor... razor sharp and precise. He is always the provocateur. Make no mistake and he doesn’t allow for any errors with what we see as sexy and maybe … very occasionally a bit trashy but always impeccably finished and conceived.

Vauthier, due to his training, IMHO makes him the consummate dressmaker as well as tailor. He can tailor an encrusted coat dress as if it was grey flannel; he can shred it, fringe it, slit it and zip it to perfection. If the truth be told, Vauthier could easy slip into the design position at Versace and most definitely do it with a more focused point of view than exists.

Facts are facts and the facts are that there is a huge consistency in this designer’s body of work as the man embraces his brand’s DNA and each season he shows us how he can massage the genetics of Alexandre Vauthier into a current incarnation. There are too few who are as loyal to their brand as he.

CHANEL haute couture fall 2015-6

Karl stands alone, whether it is in ready to wear or couture. He is the savviest of businessmen. In a world of hype with usually very little to back it up, there stands Karl and probably the only other person who can stand beside him is Giorgio Armani. Both do what they do and laugh at the rest.

CHANEL Haute Couture is a walk in the park for the designer. There is nothing here that screams new and just about everything will find a client. Even though these clothes will never see a store rack, they are, for the most part, hugely commercial except they are of the most precious workmanship, fabrication and undeniably wearable. Yes, there are some blocky if not klutzy looking styles but who cares.

As a whole this is 100% pure and unadulterated CHANEL. There is no stepping out on a limb here or testing the waters; these are what keep the brand at the top of its game. If one wanted to take a slightly less complimentary point of view, one might say that this was Karl doing Chanel with is eyes closed. 

One might also possibly think that Karl is bored. Again, no matter how you slice it ... this will probably be the best selling collection of any Haute Couture maison with the largest clientele.

With all that being said... who can really find fault? Even if he did have an severe attack of epaulette!