Showing posts with label furs. Show all posts
Showing posts with label furs. Show all posts

Wednesday, October 4, 2017

on the home front.. meet Norman Ambrose

www.looks.love/us 

OR

At some point around 5 years ago I was invited to the show of a designer I had never heard of. As luck would have it, the designer was Norman Ambrose and it was at that point that my infatuation and coverage began. I was awed by a young man who understood and possessed the skillset of master dressmakers, designers and great couturiers. The clothes reflected an astounding comprehension of why women would buy his clothes as well what would make a woman exquisitely dressed. Some might say he is an old soul or born too late but as Diana Vreeland said “...Don’t think you were born too late. Everyone has that illusion. But you aren’t. The only problem is if you think too late?” 
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To my utter delight Norman carried the torch for clothes that befit the women that can afford them and wish to look a certain way. Yes, times have changed,  but to me the one thing that remains constant is that a woman still  wants to be beautiful, feel beautiful and be admired and complimented when she enters a room. Norman offers women these opportunities.

His career has evolved from where he started but the young man has adapted and forged his new path by adhering to his brand’s DNA and with a skillset and taste level that has propelled him to his present situation. So … with all this praise and laudatory talk, it’s now Norman’s turn to speak of his brand and the state of fashion as he sees it …. In his own words ….
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Jeffrey Felner:  Can you tell us briefly how you arrived at your present professional station?
Norman Ambrose: Many years of dedication and hard work!  My life’s mission is to honor the women I love and share that love with all women, this credo drives me daily. I have a passion for making beautiful clothes and love the creation process. I’ve been in business nearly 10 years now and it feels like the blink of the eye.
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JF: Do you have any mentors or style icons who influence your work and why them?
NA: I think of my clothes as timeless and tend to draw from women who embody this ideal. For example, I have always been captivated by Jacqueline Kennedy and her sister Lee Radziwill. They embody a timeless, cultured beauty where refinement and an effortless spirit are in complete 
harmony. 
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JF: If you could invite any 5 people to dinner who would they be and why?
NA: Assuming this would be one of many dinners I am to host; here are 5 that come to mind in the immediate. (For seating purposes, I’ve selected two couples and then a single that would sit at my side.)
Guests 1 & 2- Gloria Swanson & Rudolph Valentino- I have a fascination with old Hollywood beginning with the silent film era. Both Gloria and Rudolph would have many fascinating stories to re-tell of their zenith days in films, and to listen would be magic.
Guests 3 & 4- Princess Diana & Dodi Al Fayed- Lovers who’s lives ended far too young and in such tragic circumstances, it would be wonderful to hear firsthand what it is they loved about one another and what life was like at the time of their untimely deaths.
Guest 5- Lastly but certainly not least would be the god-mother of fashion herself, Diana Vreeland. Her witty sense of humor and natural gift of story-telling would make her a charming dinner companion to hold court with. 
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JF: There is no doubt that the fashion system is broken; if there is anything or a few things that you would or could change what would they be and why?
NA: The fashion industry is undergoing a paradigm shift. I don’t view the fashion industry as necessarily broken but rather as an opportunity. For the past decade the industry has experimented with discounting, fast fashion, social media, more is better and on-line selling. Trying to navigate all these waters, it is my belief that many brands lost focus and forgot who they are as a brand or made missteps with their customers that cost them dearly. We are in the digital age and navigating the waters to determine where the next best thing in fashion will fall.
As a young brand and designer, I face many of these challenges. In speaking with friends in other industries, they also face some of the same challenges the fashion industry does, fast pace, lack of innovation, funding, mentoring, and a platform. So I view it as everyone is trying to figure out the digital age. For me and the brand, it comes down to product and the experience that you provide your customer. I just stay true to myself and design beautiful product that can be worn by my customers, to make them feel enchanted, carefree, and confident. The brand developed a strategic direction and we navigate the waters like everyone else but keep asking the question of ourselves “is this our core, is this who we are?” Being centered allows the brand and I to guide the company at a time when the waters are uncertain around us.  
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JF: Let’s speak of internet sales vs. brick and mortar; how do you view those points of sale and why?
NA: We are witnessing a cyclical cause and effect with relation to internet sales and brick & mortar. For example, let’s take the traditional department store. The department stores as we know them are trying to compete and maintain their bottom line as a large number of their customers switch to online purchasing for a majority of their consumer needs. Unfortunately, the in-store experience is being greatly affected. We’ve seen the loss of customer service, a lack of associate knowledge, a limited assortment & sizing, lack of differentiation between the stores, and the dilution of brand messaging affecting how the customer connects with the products. This downgrade and lack of differentiation has discouraged consumers from purchasing in store and justified the ease at which they enjoy purchasing the same products online.
The type of company you are determines the strategy of how you sell to your customer. Being a luxury brand, it is important to differentiate and create a mystery behind the product. It is key to understand the type of product that can sell online vs. in store, controlling your points of distribution. When selling luxury, your customer wants to feel good about themselves and what they are purchasing by having a personal experience. Whether selling in store or online, it is paramount that you provide cohesion in that experience.
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Thursday, July 9, 2015

FENDI .. 50 years of Karl .. Haute Fourrure



It was a golden anniversary celebrating Karl’s record breaking years of collaboration with the house of Fendi. This was no ordinary Haute Couture show, this was Haute Fourrure and it was the “hautest.” If anyone knows anything of what this brand stands for when it comes to fur, they know that fur is treated as if it were any woven fabric. That said, the fur was knitted, embroidered, pieced, shaped and manipulated in just about anything else you can do to a piece of fabric. The result …                MESMERIZING!

  
From the mundane mink to sable to astrakhan to every imaginable fur and if that wasn’t enough there were enough feathers to fill an aviary or two. The silhouettes and shapes ranged from the most staid of lady coats to egg shaped capes that were nothing short of show stopping to blousons to boas of unending lengths. Let’s just say that if you are going to mount a show like this you better make it count and WHOA Nellie!


Some of the patterning resembled what you might see on the monitor of a life support system but this was hardly a collection that needed any assistance in providing or sustaining life or in this case the heritage of the brand. This was an unbridled display of Fendi’s muscle and prowess which is second to none when it comes to the art and craft of furs and leathers. The possible “analogy” of a life support system with the brand is a very tongue in cheek comparison as the house will be alive for generations to come due in no small part to the contributions of Monsieur Lagerfeld.


There are techniques that boggle the mind and test the limits of imagination which would have made Anna Piaggi swoon due to a case of the vapors. These are furs for aficionados and cognoscenti but most of all these are furs that demand to be noticed. There are not furs that you own to stay warm as they are of the “look at me” variety. The combinations of furs and feathers are beyond ones comprehension of the process it took to “build’ these pieces. PETA be damned!


So, in essence, Fendi Haute Fourrure embraces the precepts and concept of Haute Couture in the same ways as “normal fashion” does. By the way, a show of this caliber surely put some designers to shame as this was an instance when one could experience the ecstasy of fashion rather than the agony!
 

PS ... it should be noted that this show was “styled” to perfection...  no gimmicks no bull ... just beautifully coiffed and made up women on a runway wearing exquisite pieces that were designed specifically for that moment

Thursday, February 21, 2013

Fendi ... Milan Collections ... fall 2013



Well this is when the Fendis show their stuff and by that I do not mean collection, I mean that this is when they are at their height.  Fall is the season to show off what they do best and yes, I know Karl Lagerfeld is involved but I have always believed that this is more of an amusement to him than a career move.  This is where he gets to challenge their abilities to achieve looks and effects that are as improbable to achieve as they are wildly imaginative.

Today was about Punks; if you really need a theme, but I would just like to examine the incredible workmanship and the incredible dexterity that is involved in the creation of these furs.  The Fendis are known as furriers and makers of leather goods and only marginally recognized for their apparel.  My feeling is that the clothes would be overlooked or even swept aside as whimsy were it not for the involvement of Mr. Lagerfeld who brings weight to the brand when it comes to apparel.

But, I digress … back to Punks or Mohawks to be specific which happened by using the strip of fox, I am guessing, as headgear.  The schoolboy striped scarves and the stripings were wonderfully achieved as were effects that Tom Ford would have killed for had he the imagination to conjure in his egotistical little head.  I am not a fur expert but I do know that these pieces will have the best furriers in the world shaking their heads in awe and amazement.

I have never had the feeling that the clothes were of primo importance as I have just stated, the Fendi business is all about furs, handbags, accessories, shoes and not about clothes.  In a way it is much more fun  at Fendi  than, let’s say Gucci, who wants to be taken seriously as a brand for apparel as does Louis Vuitton and yet neither really has an identity or any gravitas beyond their real source of revenue and their advertising budgets … the cash cows being leather goods, shoes, accessories and handbags!  Fendi offers no pretense, just collaboration with ONE world class designer who goes hither and yon every season with a new look and a new direction but consistently delivers product that draws attention to the “mother ship.”
 




So, with all that being said, enjoy the show as it is really something to see and forget about the trends and the of the moment looks and marvel at the competence, deftness and ingenuity that is Fendi