Fendi fall 2022

KUDOS to you KIM JONES! And Fendi

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They set the bar high on the opening day of Milan and sent out a polished and well thought out collection that ignored all the dross that we have seen in New York and especially from London. This was a collection for real grown-ups who understand fashion and wasn’t to look slick, clean and wearing clothes that equate to their price tags. Kindly note that none of what we saw needed an instruction manual for how get into these clothes or why they exist

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.Truth be told, no, I didn’t understand the mousseline separates which to my eye resembled bed clothes but once the tailoring made its appearances all that was quickly forgotten. Jones offered superbly finished and fitted tailoring with nary a droopy sloppy pant in sight nor a sloping oversized shoulder. Whether or not women will flock to wear and own... well that is up for grabs but what a refreshing moment to actually see a collection of this caliber presented in the way it was. I love that he used gloves, I love that every exit had a handbag and not a single logo on a garment!

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Would I say that there were some outside influences that we have seen in times gone by ... well ... yes, but it doesn’t matter when it is reiterated with such painstaking attention to detail and actually looking new. Even the palette was easy on the eyes; Jones truly outdid himself and will certainly now truly be recognized as a very talented designer of great import and not just of hype! 

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PS... kindly note that there is no black in this collection nor one evening gown which speaks to me that this designer is not only talented but quite savvy!

Fendi couture spring 2022

I’m gonna go out on a limb here and say the biggest issue for Kim Jones now is that he is starting to build the DNA of Fendi as a clothing brand and since it has not been solidified yet and so my judgment will be more restrained than I might normally offer for a collection like this.

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First what struck me early on is that the clothes re most certainly a bit or maybe a lot of molto Signora.” Moving on, it passed through my mind that if it wasn’t overtly matronly, that this is what Valentino might look like if executed with the brands original Valentino DNA. Then I wondered how much input he had from the Fendi sisters and how much weight those opinions carried as there is a dichotomy in this collection between the old and the new. So how many cooks were in the kitchen so to speak.

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I think the “sculptural” print of art prints were meant to echo the famous Sheila Metzner photos for the Fendi scent, but it wasn’t fully expanded upon and then got lost with undecipherable prints. I think it was a mistake to offer such a dark collection since it was a bit difficult to see and also it is spring. The choice of fabrications was sort of odd as they didn’t all drape fluidly and in some cases as in the tulle or dark chiffon, they looked skimpy and others heavy handed.

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I did like the caftans and some of the more trend driven pieces as well and even some of the more mother of the bride pieces, but I think he will eventually have to take a stand and figure out who is the Fendi woman.

FENDI couture fall 2021

Now that the collective so called fashion media has used up all their depends and talked around the collection but instead spoke about Kim’s blah blah blah, let’s now talk turkey and yeah well it was pretty much a turkey fest or if I was to be kind it was bunch of very formal gowns, most of which bordered on the molto signora side except for the obvious ones and a few that were beautiful, I guess by accident.

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The fact is that no woman ever said I must own that Fendi dress, sweater, skirt, pant or any piece of clothing but you did hear them say I gotta have that baguette, that bag, that luggage, that fur or that logo canvas that started the logo craze almost 50 years ago. So, my question is why would you have an “it” designer create, no less, a couture collection of basically generic looking, been there done that clothes that say nothing about the brand.

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It’s one more time much ado about nothing ... look closely. You can see stitch work at the hems, clumsy heavy-handed draping at the necklines and waists and lots of oh well another long dress for the mother of the bride. Who’s kidding who here, Fendi is all about fur, leather, handbags, luggage and small leather goods never about any type of wearing apparel. Its only allure when it came to apparel was when Karl designed it and that was weighted far more by Karl’s name than by the Fendi brand! People forget that Karl saw the impossible and made it possible.

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FENDI men’s spring 2022

It’s an embarrassment for the brand, the designer, an insult to the consumer and absolutely laughingly absurd to anyone who has been in fashion longer than a year.... it’s like Ru Paul’s Drag Race minus the feathers and sequins and beads, organza coats, bare midriffs, sissy handbags, floppy picture hats ...why not just send them out in dresses or put the clothes on female models?

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If you wanna call this f fashion   that’s your prerogative, I opt to call this a very bad joke and a collection gone haywire; it’s a good thing that Fendi is barely known for its menswear!

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BTW... where exactly would these clothes be worn and for what reason?

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Fendi fall 2021

 Here ‘s what you learn in 54 exits:  the news is in the furs but that’s really old news but there was ONE sublime LBD and the rest is surely nothing to write home about.

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Fendi, long known for its handbags, furs and logo don’t need Kim Jones to design bland mediocre clothes that act as filler and a cast of extras for the star attractions mentioned above.

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When Karl designed this, well, it reminded me of those Judy Garland /Mickey Rooney movies where they say “oh let’s put on a show!”  Karl and the brand together had the star power and  clout but Karl understood that the furs and bags were the main attraction so he could let loose and design whatever he wanted as   long as it was a show highlighting the craftsmanship and artistry of the fur and leather ateliers... which they did.

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I won’t say it’s a yawn but I can say that as far as the clothes it’s pretty much a so what! Even the furs lack that shock and awe that glorified the spectacle of the furs. Once again, it’s a good thing that this is a brand doesn’t depend on clothes to sustain itself.

FENDI men’s fall 2021

 Any educated fashionphile will tell you that FENDI was first known for its logocentric accessories, their handbags, luggage and fur but when the brand started to open their retail palaces, soon came womenswear and lastly came men but no matter as the only attraction to the women was that Karl was involved and that gave the brand its added cachet.

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Menswear appeared as a filler for these stores where space was not an issue but menswear will never be a category that truly matters in the general scheme of things when it comes to this brand. Proof positive is this collection which is surely worth a giggle, a smile, a guffaw and an oh gawd! There is absolutely no reason for these clothes other than filler and to say they have covered all the categories. Who is their customer??

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If you want a puffer for $1000s you go to Moncler and as for the rest of the high jinks you can take your pick of any of dozens of other brands that will show you   the same or similar styles save a very few. Afterall they can’t splash the brand name all over their coats as if that’s a badge of honor.

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Inverted pleats, slits and slashes do not a collection make nor do below the knee leather Bermudas tell me why bother except to fill space?

Fendi men’s fall 2020

Having never quite understood what Fendi stands for especially in menswear … other than the double “F” logo and their technological and design expertise when it comes to fur…. let me say I’m all in for fall when it comes to tailored jackets, outerwear, and sweaters. 

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It doesn’t matter what the supposed DNA of the brand is other than fur because this is a collection rife with wonderful pieces for men who love clothes and, in some cases … definitely want to stand out in the crowd albeit not with a bullhorn screaming … LOOK AT ME!

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The images tell the story as well show you the glory that is Fendi men’s fall 2020.

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PS…  I have never really thought that the men’s collection … or the women’s really was anything but filler for their stores but lately my opinion is shifting… or that it might just be the dumb luck of fashion where you hit the mark for a few seasons and then it all circles the drain!

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Fendi spring 2020

Well it’s official… Karl has left the building and nary a trace of him remains. The images speak for themselves and to his absence. 

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