Craig Green fall 2022 men’s

He should send a thank you note addressed to Castlebejac, Walter, Virgil, Franco, Jeremy, Central St Martins, Gareth, SpongeBob and Martin and just about any other of the men’s shows we have seen in the past years. Of course, this one might even be a bit stranger or freakier if you read the designers words.

                                                                            click image to enlarge

                                                         click image to enlarge

                                                         click image to enlarge

All I’m saying is so what’s new here? The shock and awe of it is lost because of its predecessors have played this hand and please explain who or why any of this will be sold....  “We found a picture of a man living in an iron lung!!!!” If you take inspiration from that then I can say you are seriously flawed.

                                                                           click image to enlarge  

                                                                         click image to enlarge

                                                                         click image to enlarge

PS. There are some wonderful details that really should have been applied to...  at lack if better words... more normal or perhaps wearable clothes!

Versace men’s fall 2022

And so sayeth the sage Donatellamamamia” It represents a next step and a move forward, not focusing on the singular but on multiplicity, progression, and diversity—exactly what I see valued by the new generation and the way they express their masculinity in so many refreshing ways.” And the reviewer says “Versace mixes deceptively casual swagger, powerful sex appeal, and unabashed glamour.” Sadly, the film is far more interesting and intuitive than the images! Oh, and WTF is she talking about?

                                                                                                          click image to enlarge

Having owned and worn wardrobes of Versace over the years, I can honestly say there is extremely little that I relate to in what was shown here. Gianni really brought sexy to menswear with wonderful tailoring, pitch perfect palettes, and just the right amount of daring and that was before the scarf prints.

                                                                                                      click image to enlarge

                                                                                                     click image to enlarge

This runway presentation is boring and sloppy save a for a few exits at the end that were nothing to write home about but were more reminiscent of the Versace that Gianni offered so many years ago. Except for the palette it was boring, repetitive and just plain sloppy. Where is the slick? where is the sexy? Where is the precision that Gianni offered? If she thinks this collection smarts of the original incarnation, then I must have been buying and wearing Johnny Verace!

                                                                                                    click image to enlarge

                                                                                                    click image to enlarge

Back to the beginning. La Signora needs to get real, and the reviewer needs to actually look back at the actual clothes that Gianni designed. Wearing a bomber over a tailored jacket doesn’t make it trendy nor do screaming colored argyles, satin topcoats and leopard prints.

Hermès FALL 2022 MENS

Perhaps “every major retailer” won’t be flocking to fill their stores with the latest offerings from Hermès especially because it’s not “collectible (yet doesn’t ever lose its value value)” but is WEARABLE ... if you can afford it!

                                                                          click image to enlarge

Some I’m sure will say the collection is a yawn but I found it to be relaxed true to its DNA and that some of the underpinnings might have been quite “fashionable” and not necessarily a la Hermès... in a good way!

                                                           click image to enlarge

The collection was knit and outerwear dense with some wonderful sweaters and lots of outerwear for those who actually buy clothes to wear and not stare at or be stared at when wearing. Whether or not you recognize the Swedish army officers coat of the 70s translated into the Hermès vocabulary is inconsequential as those pieces are quite refreshing in a way. The silhouette is relaxed, unpretentious, neat and of course classic and timeless.

                                                         click image to enlarge

It wouldn’t be Hermès unless there were a few incredible croco pieces and this season did not fail to disappoint... after all which would you want...  a varsity/bomber from Hermès or the same style from Vuitton in red... with or without the bee keeper’s baseball cap that is sure to only increase in value on eBay?

                                                           click image to enlarge

So, the question is, point blankly, do you want clothes to stare at or to be stared at when wearing or simply clothes to wear!

                                                                             click image to enlarge

DIOR MENS FALL 2022

Well... I by no means hated this collection since I actually found it refreshing in its closer to the body silhouettes and relaxed but not sloppy looks... let’s call is purposefully slouchy. I do think that this collection would have greatly benefitted from a more mature casting and “precise” styling.

                                                                         click image to enlarge

I absolutely liked the contour zippers and the more severe shapes and even the femininization of many classic looks which made them what fashion shows are meant to be! I easily could have lived without the heavily embellished floral tops and Jones “ode to the lily of the valley” even though I get it. The asymmetrical pant is something that appeals to me even if it’s nothing new and been done before. The palette was soothing and allowed the clothes to ...get ready... speak for themselves; there was no need to explain what we saw. This was one of most commercial collections to have come along this season.

                                                                         click image to enlarge

                                                                          click image to enlarge

I salute Jones for only showing his puffers in signature Dior “caning” pattern and not channel quilted ones which have flooded the runways of almost all men’s show thus far. Jones even got his denim in there but instead of blue it was grey and not in the least bit offensive or out of place to the eye.

                                                                           click image to enlarge

                                                                         click image to enlarge

Simply said, this collection was a standout noteworthy collection even presented exactly as it was. There was a point of view with none of the gimmickry we have been exposed to in almost every other collection. This is when buyers show their mettle and dissect a collection to present to their clients either exactly as shown or by cherry picking pieces and reassembling the pieces to suit their needs.

Prada fall 2022

So, here’s what I saw.... one size nylon coveralls, “rat” trimmed coats and jackets similar to what my aunts wore in the 50s and 60s or maybe reminding me of the Hasidim, a Gaultier French front blazer (hidden buttons), dolman sleeves, cinched waists, a decidedly older more mature casting, rifting on trench coats and bombers...

                                                                         click image to enlarge

AGAIN, scrunched up stove pipe pants... and nothing looking particularly worth the price of admission (if you catch my drift) and to wrap it up all neatly in a bow ... not a single original idea in the entire lot!... AGAIN! and lots and lots of nylon that will work as an alert system by the sound of it rustling when walk into a room! (You know when once upon a time you could hear a women’s thighs rubbing together when they wore stockings) or in orange when doing your hours of community service picking garbage along the roadside and lastly let’s talk about repetition over and over and over again.

                                                                         click image to enlarge

                                                                           click image to enlarge

We won’t get into fit and fabrications as why bother? ... the twosome can go on their merry way philosophizing all about their inspirations and indulging in their intellectual word soup that they both love to dish out in copious amounts season after season.

                                                                         click image to enlarge

Zegna Fall 2022

Alessandro Sartori, whom I happen to think is quite talented with one foot firmly planted in reality, has proposed a more au courant vision for Zegna as it will be known from now on. It’s my opinion that Zegna will always be known for its tailored clothes and Sartori is putting out feelers to a new generation of possible Zegna customers.

                                                                         click image to enlarge

The collection is fashion savvy and somewhat trendy and yet the DNA of the brand remains intact. There is a fluidity and softness which is a welcomed sight as well as a variety of pant shapes and of course jackets and outer wear. Sweaters play a large part in the layering process that he puts forth as does his almost renaissance like rich palette. Do I think that this possible newcomer will wear the clothes as shown... well no, but I do think there is a rich young client as well as a tried-and-true Zegna client who will find pieces to wear.

                                                                         click image to enlarge

                                                                         click image to enlarge

What I found most distressing was that film which was their 16 minutes of my life I will never get back and as far as I am concerned was a “Hollywood” production in the same vein as Vaccarello for St Laurent except that the latter was far more exciting, and this was tedious.

                                                                        click image to enlarge

                                                                          click image to enlarge

At any rate I find it refreshing when a designer designs and understands it is not his name on the label but a label that is revered for its longevity, quality and product. It will be interesting to see how this evolves in the future and if it will return to the more classic approach or proceeds on the more fashion path.

VTMNTS spring 2022

 THE SECRET  THAT SHOULD HAVE NEVER BEEN MADE PUBLIC.......

                                                                         CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

                                                                            CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

Redundant, not a new  concept in sight other than showing the same outfit in 5  color ways, yawn worthy, trendoids beware, fashion media get those  diapers, 40s/50s menswear influence, turtleneck shells ( ask your mother) with matching opera length gloves, varsity jackets, car coats, draping sweat pants, more puffers, raw sienna is not the most asked for  color in the pantone  book, all modeled on punk like neo Nazi  type  models, and after 100 looks  you  really have to wonder who was waiting for this. 

                                                                             CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

                                                                          CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

This GEORGIAN thinks he will tip the scales of fashion with this crap. The best   top was the first and then it just went downhill from there. Demna must have this ego that’s bigger than Jeff Bezos’ bank account to even think this is anything   but more thrift store stuff cleaned up and copied ... and yes, we all need more tee shirts with words on them and more adidas sweat suits....

                                                                           CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

So, my question is “where’s the beef?”

YSL men’s spring 2022

One might subtitle this collection as Death In Venice!

                                                                    click image to enlarge

One thing we know for sure is that this collection was not designed as work wear since I’m not quite sure where or why you’d wear these clothes.

                                                                          click image to enlarge

Vaccarello said he referenced Yves’ 70’s and 80s collections which indeed he did but he weakly referenced the women’s collections and paraded out a cavalcade of pirate shirts, capes, platform boots, shoes that hurt just by looking at them and let’s not forget lace blouses all shown in models of questionable gender!

                                                                       click image to enlarge

These are clothes that cost 1000s of dollars and can only be worn by the very young or shall I say should only be worn by the very young and now you do the math!

Leg o mutton ruffled neck lace blouse on men is a mockery of the late designer.At a time when we are all trying reach the post pandemic stage of life, these clothes are almost an insult or possibly just erasing the past 18 months as if they never happened.

click image to enlarge

YSL menswear never set the world on fire as I was a good customer in those early years at Rive Gauche before the Bidermann years. My point being, you never looked like you shopped in the back of your mother’s closet and the clothes were not age centric but they were luxe, chic, understated and fabulous. Fact is, I bought my very first pair of sweats at Rive Gauche and even they were fabulous and keep in mind this was about 35 years ago ... they were simple drawstring cotton fleece lined but they had thermal tuxedo stripes running down the legs.

                                                                             click image to enlarge

There is nothing discreet here nothing soigné or natty except for a few tailored jackets and might I add that even 35 or 40 years ago spencer jackets for men were not flying off the racks for any designer. If Vaccarello was really influenced by the collections of those years where are the lush color combinations, the bold statement making clothes and the aspiration that went with it all.

The only thing I see here is buy these clothes, wear them in daylight and pray no one throws stones at you!

Hermès spring men’s 2022

Even though the term sprezzatura is Italian terminology describing a sort of uncontrived way of men dressing, Veronique Nichanian proves it lives in her heart and certainly shows in her Spring collection for men. With very few missteps and not bending to the absurdity that has been weeping the men’s shows Hermès rises to nearly the top of the hierarchy of men’s fashion standing tall behind Mr. Armani.

                                                                         click image to enlarge

You might say it’s a bit like Cuccinelli or several others who have not fallen into the trend trap but at Hermès you are getting the supplest skins, fabric combinations and wonderful easy knits that have come to be shown this season BUT without a doubt this is collection jacket heaven. I almost forgot to mention she snuck in a print which was refreshing, to say the least, and paying homage to the brand’s DNA.

                                                                        click image to enlarge

                                                                         click image to enlarge

I’m not saying I’d mind that epauletted camel suede tunic or a few pairs of those slouchy pants with rope belts or those dip dyed sweaters but jackets take a starring role ...oh did I forget that sueded croco dyed in pale turq, camel or possibly it’s washed denim but I do take offense to those bois de rose color and that one tee shirt that looked literally like some shredded rag.

                                                                         click image to enlarge

                                                                       click image to enlarge

Ageless, classic, chic, soigné, unpretentious wearable clothes for men who can afford them and for young men to aspire to... oh the word aspire!

Dior spring 2022 men's

All the kerfuffle in the men’s world about Kim and Virgil, Virgil and Kim about how greatly talented they are ...well... you be the judge and you decide if what they show befits their labels and exhibits any sort of talent other than turning out ridiculous, ludicrous, unwearable, wildly expensive clothes.

                                                                          click image to enlarge

Yes, Kim did do some beautiful things at Vuitton but as for Virgil, in these politically correct times, well... you get the idea because this past collection is an embarrassment to the brand but as has been said over and over ... Dior sells scent and cosmetics and Vuitton sells handbags and wallets.

                                                                           click image to enlarge

This Dior collection comes off as the logorama collection yet still comes off better than Vuitton which is totally cartoonish and DR Seuss, but Dior also has now stated that “the hip hop community is no longer dictated to by fashion, they’ve shifted the paradigm, claimed their rightful influence on the industry, and got behind the wheel.” So apparently that’s the Dior market and   same goes for Vuitton and think about the reality of him saying who the target audience is. Plus, according Kim, if one is logical the brand doesn’t need a designer just an entertainer who will direct the design rooms.

                                                                           click image to enlarge

                                                                              click image to enlarge

Wanna be sustainable and all that... don’t spend zillions on shows like this and fill your stores with clothes you’ll have to ship somewhere to burn.

                                                                         click image to enlarge

Jimmy Jazz stores beware your competition is coming after you!

                                                                           click image to enlarge

Perhaps when reality sets in and truth is actually spoken about collections like this   then maybe fashion will slowly work its way back into a business of buying and selling clothes and not staging circus performances.