pyer moss haute couture 2021

pyer moss haute couture 2021

CLICK THE LINK ABOVE TO SEE THE VIDEO ....

With all the buzz surrounding this designer’s collection I felt compelled to finally have a look and read one review which happened to be that of Vanessa Friedman from the New York Times. That being said I wish to state that fashion is a business, couture of ready wear, and it is a business of selling clothes. Ms. Friedman seems to think this is an ethno/political/ sociological statement which reflects the present and future of what was once called fashion.

I emphatically and patently say that fashion is about clothes and not politics, racism or any other sociological facet of life that you can think of. It is offensive that Ms. Friedman, who more than once talked around the clothes of a collection referred to the blah blah blah of couture which is exactly what she’s done with this collection by talking all around the business of fashion and turning into an ethnic/racial situation.

It doesn’t matter if the designers of these costumes are black, white yellow or green... what matters is that it is a shame and a disgrace to discuss him in the same breath as true couture designers such as Balenciaga, Charles James, Norman Norrell, Givenchy, Yves St Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld and you get the idea....  these clothes are not even drag queen worthy as they want to wear Bob Mackie and Naeem Khan and not look like some cartoony comedy sketch costumes from a 1960s comedy variety show recreated by some design student or look like they shopped in Billy Porter’s red-carpet closet.

All of fashion has devolved with the advent of ad dollars influencing reviews and turning heritage names turned into H&M worthy collections but this one takes the cake and it is the media who has demeaned and disgraced fashion by hyping and oohing and aaaahing no talent talents by rarely offering a truthful review in fear of losing one dollar of ad revenue. In this case it is more based on the current socio-/financial climate around the world.

Shame on you all who declare collections like this and Balenciaga as a new path for fashion.

 

Dior couture fall 2021

Last I heard there aren’t any women who want to spend 10s of 1000s of dollars to look fat or thick around the waist but Maria (as I have been scolded for calling her the meatball) defies these women and presents a collection of tortured heavy-handed tweeds, suits that look like they can stand up by themselves and clothes that are generally ill proportioned at best.

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Case in point is where is a waistline ... you would be hard pressed to find a specific area of the torso judging by this collection. Also last I heard; women of a certain age also suffer from flashes... imagine trying to tear those clothes off of yourself mid flash.

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Of course, Maria must have a footwear fetish as she just never gets it right. not many women of any age that do wear gowns or couture don’t generally opt for thick soled oxfords or doc martens, yet that’s to be expected from a designer where brand comes before fashion especially when it comes to brand DNA and elegance. Can someone explain to me about the head wear that 70s Carnaby street “bobby’s” hat?

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The collection is repetitious in the extreme and when it strays, it strays so far afield that one must wonder why in the world she chose that Orientalist print to meld with all that tweed and chiffon.

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My takes away is you sweat your ass off for day and get near nude boudoir looks for evening at prices that could feed a small 3^rd world country.

Last thought, in her final bow, hahahahhahhahha, her sailor pants are low slung (waist location) and incorrectly worn while everything in the collection is uptight and tweed.

Michael Kors fall 2021

Well... one might say this is the great American comeback! Mr. Kors  has  returned to what made him a lauded and applauded designer.... slick, tailored, simple, minimalist, ageless clothes with its roots in American sportwear. This collection is in stark contrast to those of ...........well.... the past 10 or 20 years when the sweetheart of fashion media thought he wanted to be Michael the trend driven!

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Yes, some will yawn and say what’s new here ...... what’s new is that these are clothes meant to be worn not just to be looked at and they are timeless and do not require an instruction book on how to wear nor do they require any blah blah blah ... this is Kors at his core and his finest. They are a reminder of what was with a tweak here and there.

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Yes, the media will fawn and carry on about the spectacle of it all but when you’re a billionaire you can create spectacles. Just ask Monsieur Arnault! This is a collection that   conjures the idea that we will all have some sort of normalcy to return to once this pandemic dark era has passed.

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I say BRAVO to Michael for having the good sense to return to clothes that can and will sell even to clients who swore they’d never wear Kors. Less is more here and it works flawlessly!

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Celine fall 2021

 WAITING ... PEOPLE DO IT ALL THE TIME!

And so, we wait for the explosive collection of one of the most over hyped, over exposed, over rated under achiever of fashion and the only sound you will hear is a resounding THUD!

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You can be a generic practically invisible fashion victim and since no one will ask “Oh, who are you wearing? “you can just wear a billboard, a sandwich sign or just announce to anyone you speak to it’s HEDI... my guess is the reaction will be ...   OH!... while they are thinking this stupid bitch paid all that money to look like that!

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No one need him to show clothes that are a cross between H&M, Forever 21 and Goodwill and yet the brilliant uneducated shameful fashion media will rave.... it speaks to the hypocrisy of the media as well as the power of the almighty dollar because it surely isn’t speaking to fashion or style!

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PS... this is the unedited collection!

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Some might remember that  byline for Celine which was  “un nom un style”  and now it is “un nom et pas de style”

Giambattista Valli fall 2021

Apparently, Mr. Valli has returned to his senses and is designing clothes and not costumes for the influencer Instagram set. It is this collection that tells me he still has his “chops” when it comes to truly designing beautiful clothes so let me say this.... if I could continue my wish list, I’d want him or Alexandre Vauthier to be designing Chanel or even Dior. You may think I’m insane but I believe that both men are far more talented and creative than what is installed there now as designers.

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Not only do I believe them capable but I believe that either could perpetuate what these incredibly powerful brands have built while putting their own imprimatur on the brands. Valli has produced one of his most commercial collections and has said good bye to wedding cake tulle gowns that take up a room as well as clothes that are sort of more spectacle than anything else.

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He is tailor, master of flou and experienced enough to be great and not just another designer on a list that Vogue has assembled and given lip service to ... and well that goes for both of these designers. The reason there is no Vauthier review is that I cannot find the defining words to adequately describe this season’s offering. I found it very out of character for him and yet so much was totally in character, but as a whole I couldn’t wrap my head around it but that doesn’t mean there were some spectacular pieces and some I just didn’t quite understand.

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I think that fashion is in desperate need to utilizing the talent that is right in front in our eyes and not promoting and hyping talentless so-called designers because of ad pages and who owns them! Valli and Vauthier could easily be the sweeping change that fashion now hungers for and is in desperate need of.

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Eli Saab fall 2021

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Adjectives that come to mind; slick, chic, urbane, focused, refined, soigné, class, tasteful, real fashion, tasteful, sexy, elegant and many more...

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The purpose of that little exercise is to say that in a perfect world where true talent is recognized and when the businesses that take ownership of heritage brands actually want to pursue and perpetuate the DNA of said heritage brand let alone actually sell clothes .... Elie Saab would be designing VALENTINO and not he ill equipped Pierpaolo.

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Saab gets it. He understands rich lady clothes and yes there are still plenty of them out there. He designs sexy, feminine impeccably made and presented clothes that are not trendy, jazzed up, overtly sexed up and carry no whiff of the deadly concepts of relevance, sustainable or influencer. These are clothes for women of a certain station in life just as VALENTINO was in his heyday and none of that makes them look dated.

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Even though this collection might be a tad premature, given our pandemic, or some will say ill timed, it is boldly saying there are still those prefer chic, understated and tasteful over trendy/label(brand). Saab is equally adept in his day wear when he chooses to show it. The man is a likely successor to what is presently installed at VALENTINO as Saab will sell and continue the true essence of the brand whereas what’s their now, well, they should just sell labels as the clothes are inconsequential on every level and targeted to a nonexistent client.

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This collection offers hope to those of us who know what fashion and the business of fashion is actually about and no matter what anyone says, 20 somethings are not buying $5000 Chanel jackets or VALENTINO moomoos or whatever he seems to be pushing any season.

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I tip my hat to Mr. Saab and pray that before my time is over that he receives the attention and hype that he so readily deserves as a true fashion designer... lest I forget, these clothes are in no need of blah blah bah, they speak for themselves and their designer!

Dior fall 2021

Well, I’m sort of speechless and astounded to say there were a few pretty pieces and lots of mediocre and then of course there were the usual hideous things that make you shake your head and ask why?

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Somewhere between Mrs. Maisel, I Love Lucy, some sapphic undertones and a school girl or waitress fetish, Maria actually turned out some wearable clothes albeit they are just clothes ... generic, no particular point of view and all over the place ... which all of that is hardly surprising but worst of all is that the collection looks dreary and tired. Where is the Dior DNA?

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I can’t get past that black laser cut leather pinafore and a few outfits that look like waitress uniforms or the little girl dresses that would make a woman of a certain age look like she was trying to relive her Shirley Temple stage and mom jeans. The gowns are really more superfluous than ever as they range from down and out ugly, tired and amateurish to one simple basic black.

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The palette is far better than ever before but what exactly is she saying with a collection like this? There is one egg shaped plaid outfit that makes you flinch since the model looks pregnant and then we have the Chiuri penchant for some of the ugliest shoes on the runway but that seems to be a trend this season.

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In a season when some would think that comfort and ease are key, here we have a plethora of rigidly tailored suits and jackets, trapper hats, kerchiefs tied ala Audrey Hepburn and vinyl patent looking bomber jackets that look like they fell right out of a 70s Macy’s catalog.... what is she thinking?

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I guess the bottom line is she eked out a D instead of an epic fail and she just can’t get past her predilection for sheer and so I ask again ... what’s the message here!!!

Marine Serre fall 2021

Why is it that collections such as these which get all this hoopla and noise and buzz at the start about turn out to look like ill-fitting tired clothes that we have seen a million times before.

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No, she is not gonna change the world and yes, her mission may be admirable but it is my belief that the vast majority of consumers buy on impulse and not for any other reason.... the least of all need or sustainability ... so with her noble intentions, her Vogue review is about the name of the collection and who it was shot on and not about Levi jackets, camel toe leather pants, “Birkenstocks” with socks and scarves hanging off waists heads and covering faces. Overall, there is nothing new here this season’s blah blah blah... where’s the noise now?

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And if in fact those intentions are so genuine why on earth are the clothes priced for a bloated budget and not for the masses?

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Giorgio Armani fall 2021

Here is a designer who has stuck to his guns since the brand’s inception and it certainly hasn’t hurt him as he is regarded as one of greatest designers of an age! So, he continues on his well paved path with great élan but has delivered a collection that differs in overall tone from previous collections.

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There is something more at ease in this collection, something intangibly there present yet one can’t quite put their finger on it. The tailoring is there, albeit not as rigidly as usual but there is this softness to a good deal of the collection whether in jackets, tops, pants or skirts. One might say the that this season there is something soothing about the clothes.

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Again, this is not a designer who chases trend but he has this cult like following akin to drinking the “kool aid” of the season but the clothes are actually and always beautifully rendered bearing” no false prophet.”

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What struck me was that Armani chose black ... and lots of it to invade this collection which is not a common occurrence for him but no one uses black silk velvet to its fullest advantage and as lushly as he does. The blues are soothing, there is nothing that is jumping out at you, nothing of the jaw dropping variety but just exquisite clothes that can be seen as outfits or separates which again is not a usual happenstance with this brand.

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In a way he stands alone, he has no equal and he never ever strays from his brands DNA and he is never really shopping for a new customer each season which I’m sure he gets whether intentionally or not. So, no clothes to set the world on fire and no clothes for the media wet their panties about but fashion in its purest and most glorious sense presented in a way that shows us trends, trickery and gimmickry are not the answer to taking the spotlight for one season... he perseveres, he remains and he wins each and every time!

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