Showing posts with label pfw. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pfw. Show all posts

Tuesday, March 2, 2021

Marine Serre fall 2021

Why is it that collections such as these which get all this hoopla and noise and buzz at the start about turn out to look like ill-fitting tired clothes that we have seen a million times before.

                                                                          click image to enlarge
                                                                            click image to enlarge

No, she is not gonna change the world and yes, her mission may be admirable but it is my belief that the vast majority of consumers buy on impulse and not for any other reason.... the least of all need or sustainability ... so with her noble intentions, her Vogue review is about the name of the collection and who it was shot on and not about Levi jackets, camel toe leather pants, “Birkenstocks” with socks and scarves hanging off waists heads and covering faces. Overall, there is nothing new here this season’s blah blah blah... where’s the noise now?

                                                                            click image to enlarge
                                                                         click image to enlarge

And if in fact those intentions are so genuine why on earth are the clothes priced for a bloated budget and not for the masses?

                                                                       click image to enlarge

Saturday, October 24, 2020

Alexandre Vauthier spring 2021

 It is no secret that I am a fan of this man... I almost always seem to believe that he gets it. He is not worrying about making political statements or pushing an agenda… he is a designer and therefore he designs clothes… and I might say some pretty freakin fabulous ones.

                                                                          click image to enlarge

This season I think part of what was troubling to me is that it was shot in NYC and as everyone knows the city is not what it once was but this morning I went back to look at the images and read about the collection via his words and I subtracted my issue from the equation and  here is what I  came up  with.

I love these clothes ... they are superbly rendered, this is a happy collection in that it is wearable, not overly sexed up not overly glitzed out and as he points out he sees some Halston in it. I might agree to disagree with him there as I see the Halston but I also see some Donna Karan and some Yves St Laurent and by saying that I’m in no way saying that this is a derivative collection. There’s some sort of comfort factor these references bring to the collection.


                                                                        click image to enlarge

There are fun pieces like a candy wrapper romper and serious pieces like the black reed slim gowns which are superb, some real actual wearable day clothes and then an assortment of some slightly over the top pieces but the overall mood is joyous and not mournful and not matronly and certainly not pushing the envelope over the edge.


                                                                        click image to enlarge

 Hopefully in my lifetime I will see this young man get the hype and glory that goes so undeservedly to so many.  Vauthier is a true talent, a true designer with his eyes wide open who stands head and shoulders over so many who are “ad dollar spotlighted!”


                                                                           click image to enlarge

Kudos... félicitations et je t’embrace and most MERCI!

Sunday, October 11, 2020

getting to know DELFRANCE RIBEIRO and his brand

“Dressing is an expression of oneself, the formal representation of one's individuality. The DELFRANCE collections are inspired by a strong, sensual and extremely elegant woman. They are characterized by a careful choice of materials and meticulous attention to cuts, volumes and details. Contemporary sewing and traditional sewing are just the two of the elements that DELFRANCE uses for its creations, mixing the rebellious spirit of youth with the precision of cuts and lines.” D.R.

                                                                            click image to enlarge

If I learned anything from the Spring 2021 collections it is that women want to look pretty.  Not only is the esthetic aspect important but so is the ease of getting dressed; add your shoes, your scarf, your necklaces and bracelets and you’re ready to go almost anywhere... or no accessories at all!

In addition, that the clothes have to make you feel good ... of course there are some dressy dresses but not for gala evenings out but rather for possibly a more formal party for a select group of friends or just between you and your lover to mix things up. This was not  the season to  go all out and  do  clothes that have no  occasion and no reason to be worn, this was  a time for clothes that are not only wearable  but  carry  a mood and  not the frustration of  OMG I love it but where am I ever going to wear this or will I ever be able to wear this.


                                                                            click image to enlarge

Delfrance delivers a timely collection aimed at women of no particular age but to women who want new clothes and want to wear them NOW!

- Let’s speak of your product and your brand: who is your target customer and what is your philosophy for the brand?

My target customer is a spontaneous, independent and urban chic woman. She has no age and she is confident about herself and her own femininity.

Despite her impeccable elegance, she possesses a strong personality and sensuality that allows her to distinguish herself thanks to the choice of cuts and original volumes, drape, unusual combinations, precious fabrics.

My collections are inclusive, they don’t look at trends, but they’re perfect for every woman, at all times and at every moment.


                                                                               click image to enlarge

 Why do you think that the brand has such appeal to women?   

In my garments the sartorial refinement, the clean and essential lines, blends with innovative and contemporary elements to give life to creations that are at the same time original and extremely refined yet versatile; they are perfect from morning to night.


                                                                             click image to enlarge

 How do you decide on your silhouettes, palette and fabrications? Is there a theme each season? 

There is not a precise theme each season, I just take inspiration every time by the world around me: landscapes, scents, images, and so on. 

It happens for example that I spend a summer in Occitania, which then becomes the perfect source of a new collection: fresh, simple and genuine, where also the colour palette speaks to the lush summer nature. What is important for me is the attention to details, to volumes, which should be both soft, and structured, the choice of fabrics is always accurate…. It is my recipe for a collection.


                                                                         click image to enlarge

 If you could choose any collaboration, who or what would it be and why?

I like Marc Jacobs and I think we would have a great collaboration because of our mixtures of status, mindset and culture.


                                                                          click image to enlarge

 If you could invite any 5 people to dinner, who would they be and why?

 Bernard Arnault, Madonna, Donatella Versace, Anna Wintour, Vivienne Westwood. I like the way these people communicate and I like to know what they’re thinking about fashion and how fashion must change?

Tuesday, October 6, 2020

Chanel spring 2021

 First let me say that I am sort of shocked by the “show must go on” attitude …even at Chanel at the Grand Palais!

                                                                          click image to enlarge

                                                                         click image to enlarge

This show is a first for me in terms that it’s the only time I recall that the collection doesn’t look totally Chanel and seemingly leans on the thick side in terms of silhouette. I think in many way Virginie did the right thing by circumventing what might be expected from a typical Chanel presentation but what struck me is that there were lots of logo Chanel items (quick and easy sales I’d say) and yes there were lots of pieces that you might never suspect would be part of a Chanel collection from any season.


                                                                         click image to enlarge

                                                                         click image to enlarge

 

Another jarring occurrence was the presence of some rather chunky girls… and no I am not fat shaming… it’s fact... Karl was not fond of excess flesh! I can’t say that this was an asset to the presentation but it did give one some pause as if to say that a Chanel customer doesn’t have to be a size 0 to wear it or that women of a certain size were strictly relegated to the accessory, scent and make up counters or that only women of a certain age wear Chanel.


                                                                          click image to enlarge

                                                                         click image to enlarge

As a collection I’d say it was good, certainly not great, and extremely commercial…do I think Karl would approve … or does it matter if he would…I’m not so sure. No matter as compared to the piles of dross that has paraded around Paris in the past week, this comes out a winner in comparison. It was simple and understandable with a few bloopers but you can be sure their sales won’t be suffering!


                                                                           click image to enlarge