Showing posts with label GIORGIO ARMANI. Show all posts
Showing posts with label GIORGIO ARMANI. Show all posts

Sunday, February 27, 2022

Giorgio Armani fall women’s 2022

Even Mr. Armani has been bitten by the trend bug, BUT only I a very minor way, sort of like dipping one toe into it. This was not your run of the mill Armani runway cavalcade of suits, coats and jackets of every kind; this was a collection of softer yet closer to the body silhouettes that still speak to the DNA of the brand but perhaps one might say in a different dialect! As a colleague said to me  .. he stepped out of his comfort zone a bit in this collection... and with few to no missteps.

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Indeed, the color to own is rich and luxurious purple in assorted intensities and varying shades of grey.  It is not often that Armani collections can be described as an itemy  but  this season his “lower halves” are rarely that important to the total look. Most of pants are full/relaxed as are the dresses. Wisely, he paid only obligatory attention to standard evening wear keeping it to a minimum but here the pants became the focus. I think I’d be safe to say that any dyed in the wool Armani client can have what’s new and mix it with her Armani of times gone by and no one would be the wiser.

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As a whole it is an extremely nuanced collection that shows us why he is   a master tailor with a bit more contemporary fare than usually his wont. I could never say I hated but I sure did like it ... not love but like... a lot .... especially given what his colleagues have put forth this season. He, as usual stands alone in his dedication and loyalty to the brand’s DNA no matter its permutation.

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One last thing is that the viewer needs to take note that even the accessories have been dialed down!

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Sunday, September 26, 2021

Giorgio Armani spring 2022

Imagine that!!!! We finally get to see a collection that was actually designed and doesn’t look like every other collection or a collection that is so over worked that it’s an abysmal failure.

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This was a collection built upon the entire Armani vocabulary from his lexicon of Armani pants to every kind of tailoring he has ever done. For the most part the collection is easy, soft, moments of rigidity, ethereal, lighter than air and then of course it just wouldn’t be Armani if there was no navy blue for spring!

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The palette is what you might call diluted/muted sherbet colors or the palest of pastels done up in everything from tulle to knits to day wear. It is difficult for me to be able to say I wished to see more even though there were certainly plenty of exits, but I did want more! It’s just so soothing and reassuring to know that there is still a collection that doesn’t scream look at me, look at me and instead offers up clothing that will make the Armani client salivate.

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If I wanted to find fault it would be with some of the pant shapes and the amount of tulle but they are inconsequential faults when you look at this as a total collection ... AND, do take note that models SMILED and causally strolled the runway as if they were actually enjoying their moment instead of looking like some robot that was wound up to walk a straight line.

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Tuesday, June 22, 2021

Giorgio Armani spring 2022 men’s

While I might not agree with the amount of short or cropped pants, I can say that long ago Mr. Armani took the jacket and gave it a whole new life and once again he has taken everything from bombers to blazers to safari jackets to cpos and given them a wonderfully rich soft look that will appeal to men who certainly haven’t been all done up in a suit and tie for the past year. I remember when he designed pajamas and then did glorious soft shirts for Paolo Montin and luscious suedes for Sicons.

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I might even say it's sort of happy joyful collection with of course perfect styling perfect casting and just a tinge of logomania. Me, personally, I wanna wear these clothes ...if not the shorts, then the jackets and if not the solids, then the prints and if not navy or black  certainly the colors. Everything has been tweaked just enough to not look foolish

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I’m not afraid to say that I am sure there is an entire suit collection the showroom but as for a show Armani gave us a relaxed calming look at how men can show themselves off to the world. Do I think this will set the world on fire...? absolutely not but hell give me a show like this and not the jokes that were shown at Prada or Fendi or so many others.

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To me, as I said, I may not agree with the shorts in such abundance but those jackets ...  oh, those jackets....  I did have to laugh how he squeaked in one or 2 all buttoned up razor sharp suits among all the soft and sometimes drapey turn outs.

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Saturday, February 27, 2021

Giorgio Armani fall 2021

Here is a designer who has stuck to his guns since the brand’s inception and it certainly hasn’t hurt him as he is regarded as one of greatest designers of an age! So, he continues on his well paved path with great élan but has delivered a collection that differs in overall tone from previous collections.

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There is something more at ease in this collection, something intangibly there present yet one can’t quite put their finger on it. The tailoring is there, albeit not as rigidly as usual but there is this softness to a good deal of the collection whether in jackets, tops, pants or skirts. One might say the that this season there is something soothing about the clothes.

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Again, this is not a designer who chases trend but he has this cult like following akin to drinking the “kool aid” of the season but the clothes are actually and always beautifully rendered bearing” no false prophet.”

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What struck me was that Armani chose black ... and lots of it to invade this collection which is not a common occurrence for him but no one uses black silk velvet to its fullest advantage and as lushly as he does. The blues are soothing, there is nothing that is jumping out at you, nothing of the jaw dropping variety but just exquisite clothes that can be seen as outfits or separates which again is not a usual happenstance with this brand.

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In a way he stands alone, he has no equal and he never ever strays from his brands DNA and he is never really shopping for a new customer each season which I’m sure he gets whether intentionally or not. So, no clothes to set the world on fire and no clothes for the media wet their panties about but fashion in its purest and most glorious sense presented in a way that shows us trends, trickery and gimmickry are not the answer to taking the spotlight for one season... he perseveres, he remains and he wins each and every time!

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Wednesday, January 27, 2021

Armani Privé haute couture spring 2021

 “The times we are living in do force us to stay at home and have a very limited social life, but the quest for beauty is eternal,” Armani wrote. “That is what this collection is all about.”

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For me this was like seeing 2 different collections and yet all so seamlessly cohesively woven together. The dichotomy was in the palette from neutrals to pastels to jewel tones and all with the most amazing quality being the clothes had a fragility and delicacy that made them appear almost ethereal and weightless.


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The embroideries beyond one’s imagination, the flourishes of the horse hair “collars”, the exquisite jeweling of a velvet jacket, the embellished tulles that appeared almost floating and all of them made and fitted to perfection.


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It is hard to think that at one time, decades ago, Armani only made dresses that looked like uniforms rather than real people dresses but look at what this man has accomplished in terms of expanding his vocabulary and enlarging the DNA of his brand.


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 The variations from the structured to the almost negligee like fragility, the extraordinary femininity and the variety of silhouettes … jackets of every conceivable nature and clothes that women will aspire to and covet which is exactly what haute couture is supposed to do…lust! I urge you to watch the film and look at the slides anywhere you can find them as these images do not do justice to the extreme beauty of this collection.

Sunday, September 27, 2020

Giorgio Armani spring 2021

 To his empty space and to his virtual audience Armani did exactly what I suspected he would… he dialed it down all the way. Some will say yawn and this again and I say brava.  The man understands his customer and he knows what’s going on in the world and the clothes reflect this very relaxed slouchy and occasionless type of dressing…of course except for the evening gowns which will be bought by his most devoted of clients.

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So, to the naysayers, I say go on about the brilliance of that hack Jeremy Scott, the intellectual pedestrian designs of the new George and Gracie or the coming tee shirt collection from  Dior since the meatball has so many causes she can protest and I say gimme some Giorgio who is a designer for the ages who designs for HIS clientele.


Take note the colors more somber, the accessories at a minimum and the shoes mostly flat or close to it. The collection is well thought out and in tune with the times for HIS customer.



Sunday, February 23, 2020

Giorgio Armani fall 2020


Before I get started, spare me the “same old same old, tired, yawning, who cares” and the rest of the derogatory remarks because Mr. Armani is not a trend  victim  nor does he really  care what any of us have to say about his collections since he is the sole owner of a billion dollar fashion empire.
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What Armani has is a signature and that is increasingly rare as time goes on. Most designers just “design” clothes and send clothes out without any regard for them being recognized as being a specific brand…. Okay maybe that is a very slight exaggeration but true in the vast majority.
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Heritage brands have just become names that no longer reflect what the name once represented and that is the sadness. The fashion industry has evolved into a business of clothes that will either never make it to the racks of a store or certainly windup on clearance or in discount outlets. Twenty somethings cannot afford thousands of dollars to look trendy and those that can afford don’t want to go unnoticed... they want designer recognition… for the most part and that is what Armani offers his flock.
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This season it’s a case of practicality be damned! I can’t get used to Armani and his choice of prints and yet I rarely if ever tire of his boundless creative skillset when it comes to tailoring. Indeed, the interest is in the jackets and coats and capelets that seem to just come in an endless variety of shapes, lengths, proportions and surface interests. Of course, no one other than Valentino Garavani made as much use out of silk velvet but it’s hard not say it sure does look rich.
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It wouldn’t be an Armani collection unless there were the standard Amani quirks just like there were the Karl clunkers at Chanel. No, I’m not a fan of the cross between a harem hem and an elasticized jogger hem but that’s what makes him… him! Ever the odd shaped bottoms but one comes to expect that after so many collections and so many variations. 
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What was refreshing is that with all the over accessorizing and over styling we have seen these past few weeks, Armani seemed spare by comparison save for those incredible statement necklaces. He provided a much-needed respite from the over abundance of plaids and oversized jackets, puffers, slip dresses and either puddling pants or cuffed shorts. 
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The way I see it is I’d rather have him for as long as he will be around than any 10 of the neophytes who think they won the lottery with a good review since is they who will be gone like a puff of smoke while Giorgio remains!