Chanel haute couture 2020 fall

It’s a bit jarring for me to say that this might be Madame Viard’s best outing yet… maybe because it’s that there are not 70 exits, maybe it’s because there is no grandiosity of set and maybe it’s just that there are a lot of beautiful clothes in a  finely  edited  collection … some of which border on exquisite. In order to fully appreciate the clothes, one must  view the short  film (www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-couture/chanel ) and the entire collection as it allows you to see the COLOR!

click image to enlarge

Chanel signatures abound and if my memory serves me right, there are some of KL’s greatest hits in there but as a whole, it’s pure Chanel for the women who eat and breathe Chanel. My only criticisms would be the styling and the abundance of taffeta and chiffon dresses but some were quite wonderful others rather pedestrian.

 

click image to enlarge

Bottom line is simply that Virginie most definitely put her best foot forward with this collection under the most difficult and trying circumstances of today’s world and certainly the most trying times for those of us in fashion. No gimmicks, no tricks... just clothes and artistry of the Chanel ateliers.

Dior haute couture Fall 2020

click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

*******SCROLL TO THE  BOTTOM FOR LINK **********

Despite current conditions, many of the haute couture houses have opted for alternate avenues and methods of showing their collections this season. Of course, Maria Grazia Chiuri has offered a beautifully rendered short film while living up to her usual antics of making the clothes a secondary concern to her blah blah blah.

click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

The film, which reminded me very much of Sheila Metzner’s images for her Fendi perfume scent campaign is all about the overall story instead of being about the clothes which, by the way, might have been a very strong showing had she handled this properly.

click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

 Instead of taking 4 minutes or 5 at the end of the film giving credits … why oh why wasn’t there a still shot of each style… even on a mannequin? So, one more time the meatball gets lost in her bullshit and pushes the clothes into the background. Day clothes don’t seem to be part of the plan nor does actually seeing the collection in its entirety,  but then again in the age of COVID, evening clothes will probably only be ordered by the die-hards and worn at home since there are no social gatherings planned in the foreseeable future and where is anyone wearing day clothes these days?

The difference this season, what might have been instead of who cares?

click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

AMENDING THE PREVIOUS REVIEW OF THE FILM!!

As you can now see, the film and the collection have nothing whatsoever to do with each other. The collection is matronly, heavy-handed and out of synch with the world today. As is the meatball’s usual wont she has no clue how to interpret an archival style other than to me it looks outdated and so weighty that you need a crane to get it on. At this point I honestly just don’t get it any of it... there is nothing cohesive about it and god only knows nothing to write home about unless you’ve longed to be a lampshade or wear a couture coat with some cartoonish character on it. Oh, and the color palette is most definitely post-menopausal!

click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-couture/christian-dior

Alexander McQueen fall 2020

Why is it so difficult for any of the so-called media elite reviewers to just write a review about the clothes? All this rabble about the inspirations and the whys and wherefores don’t appear on the racks… just the clothes so why not cut the crap and either talk about the clothes ... say you love them say you hate, them and why and jeez have an opinion!

click image to  enlarge

Sarah Burton continues to work her magic when it comes to channeling Alexander McQueen which is more important than a nod to the Celts!   The clothes are precise, edgy and this time around a much-pared down version without all the extreme details but certainly a long way away from being boring.

click image to  enlarge

click image to  enlarge

To me, many of the leathers looked a tad heavy handed but then again, I’m rarely a fan of leather dresses or suits and then there were the prints which is always a sticking point in any collection and lastly the fixation with that back-floor length panel cum train…. Not exactly necessary or appealing on a lot of pieces.

click image to  enlarge

click image to  enlarge

Let’s speak of the beauty of the broderie anglaise looks the magnificent tailoring of the suits and the gowns and dressy dresses which were so beautiful and a few even appearing lighter than air which is certainly not a typical McQueen look.

click image to  enlarge

As a whole it is still one more homage to the genius who left behind his alter ego to carry on his talents in unimaginable ways. Kudos to you Sarah Burton…