Showing posts with label haute couture. Show all posts
Showing posts with label haute couture. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 26, 2022

Valentino couture spring 2022

So, what’s the message here? I saw odes to YSL, Courreges, Halston, Mona Bismarck and her Balenciaga opera coat and yet not one reference from the eponymous designer of this brand!

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There surely was a lot fabric used in the making of this collection which ranged from almost 2-dimensional flatness to voluminous shapes that swallowed the model. The color range was a highlight, yet it was more like a pantone color book than a well thought out palette... yes refreshing but at these prices you want something more than just colorful “stuff.”

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In his efforts to be inclusive, which he certainly was, he went overboard by showing some of these confections on more than reed slim models and that really didn’t work so well... cellulite is not something makes women dream! All in all, to me it told no story, it’s a lot shock, spectacle and awe but upon further examination it made not a lot of sense. Lots of nods to the pasts of others and to his own works but as a total it really didn’t have a lot to say. He made a point of conjuring all sorts of questions such as why an hourglass silhouette has on seam pockets, why do some dresses look like they were lopped off after the fact and where are you wearing a probably $20,000 3-piece suit with puddling pants and a bra top...if it sells at all I highly doubt it will be sold as shown!



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The feather lashes were been there done that and who in the world sends out a model with a hole in her stockings while wearing a 5-figure ensemble! Hair was neat/ slick, the model range was much larger than most and by that, I mean in size and age. It might have helped a bit if some of the models didn’t appear to be sleep walking. The men’s pieces were filler and superfluous and as once again why were they even shown!

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PS... don’t expect Sheikha Mozah banging down your door!

Tuesday, January 25, 2022

Chanel couture spring 2022

First and foremost, we must all get it through our heads that no one can match Karl and to constantly compare Virginie to him is a case where she will ALWAYS come up on the short end of the stick. So, if we look at this collection more objectively, we might find some redeeming qualities about it.

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Chanel made a pants statement... that’s for sure; sometimes the outer side seams were split and other times the inner leg seams split which provided a fluidity that might not have existed especially in the tweeds, while on the subject, they made a major statement in tweeds which didn’t always work given the season and apparent bulk of some.

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In this particular instance, this is a show that should be seen in motion as you just don’t see it all from a still such as the peplum back on some of the scuba inspired jackets and one of the evening stunners with a cowl back. What I don’t understand is that one button semi wrap skirt that is worn over another skirt or a dress. It’s superfluous and in most cases bulky. In another case of ill-advised notions was the sheer midriff pieces that should have been a moment and turned out to be a statement but any fashionphile will tell you no woman wants to expose that part of them let alone in a garment that can make you look fatter and wrinkled! An editor’s pencil would have certainly helped out here as I think a tighter collection would have actually benefitted the overall take away here.

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If memory serves me, evening seemed to be far too long and not very exciting. Many of the exits seemed generic and, in some cases, extremely ill-conceived i.e., the granny dresses in prints and pieces that looked more like negligee rather than evening wear that one might actually wear outside their boudoir. The shoe will be fly out of the stores but alas this collection was almost accessory free which in my opinion is an error for this brand.

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Falling victim to the comparison I warned of, Virginie does not have that final finishing touch that Karl possessed even on his famous “klunkers.” Yes, this season the models were groomed and made up but explain the black eye!!! Let alone Princess Charlotte on a horse to open the show...  if there was anything equestrian about this presentation it apparently evaded me.

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Okay enough said... it was a valiant outing but also a collection that seemed to get to a certain point and then went nowhere... triste!

Monday, January 24, 2022

Dior couture spring 2022

Let’s call it 60 shades of bland and boring! My take is simply that this was supposed to be salable and covetable and yes it was salable, more so than her ready to wear, but there is more at stake here than ready to wear.

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What was the message here? What is she trying to convey with endless white and shades of beige with occasional accents of grey and black? I saw Katherine Graham’s dress from Capote’s black and white ball offered in beige or off white, I saw that minimalism chez Dior equates to boring and yawn worthy, I saw Jackie Kennedy looks that are so out of step with world today and a designer who hasn’t a clue what she or the brand stand for!

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Once again, the Signora’s idea of sexy is transparent and yet she makes it bland, then of course the styling with kitten/louis’ heels on young girls instead of women and a paucity of make up all piled onto some ridiculous notion that these clothes reflect the DNA of Maison Dior.

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I couldn’t wait to read the review for her to explain in her esoteric and faux intellectual word salad about how and why we should view the relationship with primitive cave like paintings and the clothes that were shown ... other than the fact that her crusade for feminism has been abandoned and she is searching for any raison d’être!

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Let’s just say there is absolutely nothing here to really speak of other than why bother to present 60 generic tired looks? Let me say the final exit of the model with a wedgie was a perfect ending!

Schiaparelli couture spring 2022

Daniel Roseberry clearly speaks “Schiaparelli” ... the vocabulary and language of the brand’s eponymous designer. I can’t say that these clothes are created for commercial use but I can say they are covetable in much the same way that Thierry Mugler’s couture was!

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Roseberry makes exceptional use of the ateliers and most especially of the metalworks that create the Calder like, surreal and Schiaparellian motifs employed to be part of a given look. It is clear that Roseberry does not go quietly into couture and that he has no desire to tip toe his way in... he has arrived! Statement making clothes that might be worn once or twice but I’m guessing are most certainly collected by a reignited fashion cult that can afford the prices.

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Notice an emphasis on the horizontal from hem to hat with an hourglass shape in between. These are not easy to wear nor are they just something you throw on to run an errand, but they are inarguably spectacular in their own way.

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So, it’s up to you ... either you love them or you don’t! You cannot deny Roseberry respect for upholding the DNA of the brand while carving a niche for himself with the vocabulary and iconography of the brand!

Tuesday, January 18, 2022

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture Spring /prefall 2022

One of the more preposterous ideas to surface in a long time aside from the Jeff Koons balloon like clothes from those Russians is showing couture and prefall at the same time on the same runway and allowing the viewers/clients to see them intermingled. If that isn’t scary enough in concept, wait till you see it in the flesh from Giambattista Valli who seemed to think this was a brilliant idea! Let me be the first to tell IT IS NOT!

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Before we even get to the clothes, let us speak of what happens when your models look like teenagers dressing up in mommy’s clothes wearing mommy’s “falls” from the 70’s which are haphazardly placed on their heads and forgetting to wear make up! The casting and styling for a show that essays to be groundbreaking turns out to be thunderously ill conceived in reality.

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Let’s talk about the overloaded riffs on Chanel and' even if my heart breaks to say it, to present day Valentino! The bloated bows either belong to Pierpaolo or Alexis Mabille....  then there is why use chandelier earrings and pale faces as matching those elements just make no sense. Do not mistake my words for not recognizing some exquisite pieces albeit mixed up in a way that they were not achieving their worth and severely diminished in this souk of a collection.

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What breaks my heart is that Valli is extremely talented and yet the thought process used for a presentation such as this is extremely damaging rather than advantageous to him and the brand. Yes!! There were some beautiful pieces which are unidentifiable as either couture or rtw and yet mixed up into one big bouillabaisse of fashion....  why? Reading the Vogue review, in hopes of clarification, only further confuses the issue and sadly it is time to give up those mammoth tulle gowns as they are now as common as bicycles!

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PS... you’d be amazed as to what actually was haute couture and what was not!

Sunday, July 11, 2021

pyer moss haute couture 2021

pyer moss haute couture 2021

CLICK THE LINK ABOVE TO SEE THE VIDEO ....


With all the buzz surrounding this designer’s collection I felt compelled to finally have a look and read one review which happened to be that of Vanessa Friedman from the New York Times. That being said I wish to state that fashion is a business, couture of ready wear, and it is a business of selling clothes. Ms. Friedman seems to think this is an ethno/political/ sociological statement which reflects the present and future of what was once called fashion.

I emphatically and patently say that fashion is about clothes and not politics, racism or any other sociological facet of life that you can think of. It is offensive that Ms. Friedman, who more than once talked around the clothes of a collection referred to the blah blah blah of couture which is exactly what she’s done with this collection by talking all around the business of fashion and turning into an ethnic/racial situation.


It doesn’t matter if the designers of these costumes are black, white yellow or green... what matters is that it is a shame and a disgrace to discuss him in the same breath as true couture designers such as Balenciaga, Charles James, Norman Norrell, Givenchy, Yves St Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld and you get the idea....  these clothes are not even drag queen worthy as they want to wear Bob Mackie and Naeem Khan and not look like some cartoony comedy sketch costumes from a 1960s comedy variety show recreated by some design student or look like they shopped in Billy Porter’s red-carpet closet.

All of fashion has devolved with the advent of ad dollars influencing reviews and turning heritage names turned into H&M worthy collections but this one takes the cake and it is the media who has demeaned and disgraced fashion by hyping and oohing and aaaahing no talent talents by rarely offering a truthful review in fear of losing one dollar of ad revenue. In this case it is more based on the current socio-/financial climate around the world.

Shame on you all who declare collections like this and Balenciaga as a new path for fashion.

Wednesday, January 27, 2021

Armani Privé haute couture spring 2021

 “The times we are living in do force us to stay at home and have a very limited social life, but the quest for beauty is eternal,” Armani wrote. “That is what this collection is all about.”

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For me this was like seeing 2 different collections and yet all so seamlessly cohesively woven together. The dichotomy was in the palette from neutrals to pastels to jewel tones and all with the most amazing quality being the clothes had a fragility and delicacy that made them appear almost ethereal and weightless.


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The embroideries beyond one’s imagination, the flourishes of the horse hair “collars”, the exquisite jeweling of a velvet jacket, the embellished tulles that appeared almost floating and all of them made and fitted to perfection.


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It is hard to think that at one time, decades ago, Armani only made dresses that looked like uniforms rather than real people dresses but look at what this man has accomplished in terms of expanding his vocabulary and enlarging the DNA of his brand.


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 The variations from the structured to the almost negligee like fragility, the extraordinary femininity and the variety of silhouettes … jackets of every conceivable nature and clothes that women will aspire to and covet which is exactly what haute couture is supposed to do…lust! I urge you to watch the film and look at the slides anywhere you can find them as these images do not do justice to the extreme beauty of this collection.