Schiaparelli fall 2022

It is indisputable that Daniel Rosenberry is fluent in the vocabulary of the brand and of its eponymous designer. It is unassailable that he is a savvy designer who moved beyond the immense over the top elements of the Haute Couture and left them behind and brought the attention back to the clothes themselves. Gone are the sculptural accoutrements and welcome to sculptural clothes.

This collection is the essence of Schiaparelli in its architecture, whimsy and design. There are showpieces which can still be wearable if taken apart and paired wisely. Yes, there is exaggeration but then again what would the brand be without it. Elsa in her own way was an attention whore of sorts and she created that persona with her clothes not by transforming herself.

What is fascinating to me is that Valentino showed in “shocking” and Rosenberry countered by showing in black and white....  chew on that for a moment. There is artistry in Schiaparelli that beckons awe and leaves many other designers in the dust despite their hype.

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Schiaparelli couture spring 2022

Daniel Roseberry clearly speaks “Schiaparelli” ... the vocabulary and language of the brand’s eponymous designer. I can’t say that these clothes are created for commercial use but I can say they are covetable in much the same way that Thierry Mugler’s couture was!

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Roseberry makes exceptional use of the ateliers and most especially of the metalworks that create the Calder like, surreal and Schiaparellian motifs employed to be part of a given look. It is clear that Roseberry does not go quietly into couture and that he has no desire to tip toe his way in... he has arrived! Statement making clothes that might be worn once or twice but I’m guessing are most certainly collected by a reignited fashion cult that can afford the prices.

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Notice an emphasis on the horizontal from hem to hat with an hourglass shape in between. These are not easy to wear nor are they just something you throw on to run an errand, but they are inarguably spectacular in their own way.

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So, it’s up to you ... either you love them or you don’t! You cannot deny Roseberry respect for upholding the DNA of the brand while carving a niche for himself with the vocabulary and iconography of the brand!

Schiaparelli Spring 2022

I think for the first time, before writing a review, I did some research about the eponymous designer and came up with WHAT WOULD ELSA DO or WWED?

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Obviously, Roseberry and Schiaparelli are acquired tastes but then again, she was never really about mass appeal.

“Dress designing, incidentally, is to me not a profession but an art”

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Roseberry has most definitely taken on her persona when designing his collections for the brand and while some of it may be totally outrageous while other parts of it divinely simple, they are all part of the Schiaparelli mystique which he embodies in these collections.

“In difficult times, fashion is outrageous”

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Well, we are in difficult times on most fronts, including fashion, and these clothes reflect that outrageous aspect. Roseberry appears to design with an incredibly free hand which certainly explains so much about the collection. The span of the collection is from the somewhat simple LBD to the audacious and brash circus stripes, powerful florals and mind-boggling embellishments and jewelry.

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“Fortunately, or unfortunately for me, I am always at my best when I am unhampered: when I can let myself go and have a little fun.”

                                              

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Well, I’m guessing Roseberry has his fun and perhaps hasn’t even scratched the surface of what he is hiding inside but one thing we do know is that he keeps the brands DNA close at hand and retains the integrity of the maison unlike so many others of his colleagues.

PS... what I did  find a  bit odd  were the Chanel  references  given the 2 designers prickly relation!

Schiaparelli couture fall 2021

Let’s reiterate here and be reminded that creations of the couture are not about being commercial and in most cases push the envelope as well as afforded by possibly 1% of the female clientele on a worldwide basis. It is extravagant. Sometimes over stated and in many cases incomparable to any other facet of fashion.

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Case in point is Schiaparelli by Daniel Roseberry whose theme was matador this season incorporating the DNA, vocabulary and iconography that once belonged to Elsa Schiaparelli. The embroideries are sublime, there are pieces that are in their own way commercial and then there are pieces that push the envelope to cartoonish especially in the accessory areas and in scale.

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In many ways much of what you see is overstatement... almost to the point of absurd but then again that’s what couture is all about. It’s fantasy, it’s no holds barred but what is missing here is the fact that the eponymous designer did in fact design some exquisite clothes that did not push the envelope to the edge and were in fact simply conceived. A few more “palette cleansers” might has softened the shock of much of it.

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I’m sure Roseberry has developed a cult like clientele who is will to pay in the 5 and 6 figure range to own one of these 21^st century iterations of Schiaparelli.

Schiaparelli haute couture fall 2020

Daniel Roseberry has given us a gift… he has provided us with the fullest emotion of the couture and that is fantasy. Couture is not for the usual consumer but only for those who can afford and lust for the most exquisitely executed clothes made to measure!

 

The film (on vogue.com)  is the designer sketching the collection and the images shown are the sketches which cause the viewer to the only dream of what might be or might have been if the collection was actually made.

He infuses the DNA of the eponymous brand with great skill and élan….  Something so many other designers should take note of… heritage brands have their own vocabulary as you will see.

The format of the review is a bit changed but my sentiments and reviews never ignore what fashion is about and what it was built on! 

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Schiaparelli fall 2020

Brava! Daniel Roseberry!!!!!

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How refreshing to actually be energized by what one sees from a collection such as Schiaparelli. Roseberry riffed on the namesake’s oeuvre without leaning heavily on the outrageousness of it or the exact duplication of it but by utilizing her signatures in a way that not each look is a grand gesture and nod to her.

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The first thing that struck me was that the model is incredibly reminiscent of Millicent Rogers (Google her) which to me was brilliant as she was certainly a trendsetter and fashion icon of an era. Roseberry made full use of the Schiaparelli iconography and yet turned out a collection that just definitely has his imprimatur combined with the Schiaparelli esthetic in a way that is so appealing and distinctive.

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 Respecting a heritage brand’s DNA is something that I, personally feel very strongly about and Roseberry has achieved this with great élan and imagination. There is something very slick about the collection, something very retro about the collection and something very modern about the collection all within keeping with the aura of Elsa Schiaparelli.

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 I’m not going to drone on and on about how he did it and it not just because of the Dali-esque sunglasses, so here you can see it and decide for yourself the method to his madness, so to speak.