At first glance I was completely taken in but the color explosion which certainly was a welcomed sight this season but then the reality set it...the color palette looked like pantone book exploding and the clothes suddenly looked far more like ready to wear than couture.
These is no doubt that the clothes that bear the label are impeccably made and should be at those prices but when you take a second look you see this is just another pile of clothes. Once upon a time a designer used couture as a hint or launch pad of what was to come for ready to wear that was soon to follow but in this instance where’s the difference? Shows and their collections had a beginning, daytime, a middle, cocktail, and an end evening... they had a signature they were promoting whether it be a shape, an accessory, a pattern, a skirt length ...in general, a look. Well tell me what’s the look here other than a jumble of colors that even a goat would be attracted to.
Phillips Treacy’s man of war feathered hats and a second skin LBD have nothing in common with high referenced YSL (shapes and patterns) or Cardin and more or moomoos. Yet that hat was the only thread that held this so called collection together. It was long, short, slim, loose, shapeless, second skin with little to no embellishment except sequins which can be bought by the yard.
In essence what makes this couture ... what makes this a collection... where is the cohesion and what differentiates this from ready to wear? It would be far more entrancing to go back to the archive and bring back some of masterpieces that made the brand a juggernaut in the fashion world.
So let the fashion media use up their collective supply of depends but be smarter and think about what I’ve written here!
